roasted cauliflower with za’atar / cavolfiore arrosto con za’atar

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

it looks plain, it tastes deep

When I walk or ride my bike around Berkeley, I stop at some of the Little Free Libraries on my way. In one of them I found The Cost of Living: Early and Uncollected Stories1 by Mavis Gallant2. I didn't know the author, but the blurb on the back cover made me curious, so I put the book in my backpack. The short stories have a common characteristic: tension, sometimes quite high, runs just under the surface and reveals itself in geysers of emotion. I enjoyed the stories in varying degrees, finding some more accomplished than others.

The story "Acceptance of Their Ways," set in a boarding house (pensione) on the Italian Riviera, opens on three women at the dinner table: they dislike and at the same time need each other to prop up their rather empty lives. Gallant describes in telling details objects, movements, expressions. The story wavers a bit in the point-of-view, but kept my attention to the end. Lily Littel, the story's protagonist, with her double life — the dull one led on the Italian side of the border, the wild one led on the French side, in Nice (Nizza) — gave me the idea of spicing up a cauliflower I had bought at the farmers' market.

cauliflower at the farmers' market / IMG_2518-2

beauties on display

There is something irresistible in a freshly harvested head of cauliflower. And why should I resist its appeal? It's much easier to lift it and put it in my shopping basket: I can always find a way to prepare it.

White cauliflower is by far the most common variety. Nowadays it is relatively easy to find also purple (viola), golden and green varieties; bicolor ones are rarer. Last fall I found one variety in which florets had purple stems and white tops, then most recently I found one blushing purple on its surface.

cauliflower floret with a hint of purple / IMG_5343

blushing purple

While I am perfectly happy with a plate of steamed cauliflower dressed with avocado and lemon juice, I prefer roasting it. When considering how to spice up cauliflower for Lily Littel, I reached for a recently purchased jar of za'atar. "Za'atar is an Arabic word used to describe both a specific herb and a tangy blend of herbs and spices."3 "Used in Levantine cuisine, both the herb and spice mixture are popular throughout the Middle East."4 Za'atar can be made at home, something I will try after I finish the jar I have.

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

a three-ingredient side dish (contorno)

I made the dish several times to get the balance of the three-ingredients right and below is the result.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Roasted cauliflower with za'atar

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 pounds / 680 g cauliflower, preferably organic, to obtain 1 1/4 pounds / 570 g clean
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml + 2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml za'atar spice mix

Preheat the oven to 400 F / 205 C.

Wash the cauliflower and cut it into bite-sized florets. If the leaves are present, discard the tough outer ones, but preserve the tender, inner ones. Peel the tough outer layer of the stalk and cut crosswise into coins.

Place cauliflower in a bowl, drizzle 1 tablespoon / 15 ml of extra-virgin olive oil on top and stir well to coat. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat and place in the oven. Roast until tender. Check after 20 minutes and roast a few more minutes, as needed.

za'atar with olive oil / IMG_5343

za'atar with olive oil before stirring

In the meantime, pour the remaining 2 tablespoons / 30 ml of extra-virgin olive oil in a serving bowl and add the za'atar. Stir to make a paste.

When the cauliflower is cooked, transfer to the bowl with the za'atar paste and stir well to coat. (Do not skimp on this step: you want the dressing to get into the cauliflower's crannies.)

Serve immediately.

Serves 3-4

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

a simply satisfying side dish

I don't expect to get tired of eating this dish.


1 The Cost of Living: Early and Uncollected Stories (2009) on the publisher's website and on google books
2 Mavis Gallant (wikipedia)
3 Source: Chowhound
4 Source: wikipedia
5 The brand I use includes sumac berries, toasted sesame, salt, cumin, thyme, oregano and marjoram.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar

or launch the cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 29th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.

 


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cauliflowerza'atarside dishgluten freeMiddle Eastern

Newrule

cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

sapore speziato

Ingredienti:

  • 680 g di cavolfiore, possibilmente bio, 570 g pulito
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml + 2 cucchiai / 30 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml di za'atar1 (misto di spezie tipico della cucina medio-orientale2)

Riscaldare il forno a 205 C.

Lavate il cavolfiore e tagliatelo in cimette. Se ha le foglie, scartate quelle esterne, ma tenete quelle tenere interne. Pelate il gambo e tagliatelo a rondelle.

Mettete il cavolfiore in un'insalatiera, spruzzatelo con 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva e mescolatelo bene. Distribuitelo su una placca da forno foderata con un tappetino da forno di silicone facendo un singolo strato e infornate. Cuocetelo fino a che sia morbido. Controllate la cottura dopo 20 minuti e cuocete alcuni altri minuti, come necessario.

Nel frattempo versate gli altri 2 cucchiai / 30 ml di di olio extra-vergine di oliva in un'insalatiera e aggiungere lo za'atar. Mescolate per fare una crema.

Quando il cavolfiore è pronto, trasferitelo nell'insalatiera col condimento e mescolatelo bene in modo che il condimento raggiunga bene gli spazi delle cimette.

Servite immediatamente (3-4 porzioni).

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

contorno saporito (con tre soli ingredienti)

1 Za'atar: wikipedia
2 Quello che uso io contiene sommacco, semi di sesamo tostati, sale, cumino, timo, origano e maggiorana.

 

nasturzio in cucina / garden nasturtium in the kitchen

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

Garden Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

Garden Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

Garden nasturtium's large shield-shaped leaves gather dew like solar panels gather sunlight.

On a horizontal leaf, dew droplets slide towards the depression at the center. In the morning, a giant lenticular drop reflects my image on its tense convex surface — a dome that wiggles in the breeze, a drinking pool for the visiting humming bird.

DSC_0254

I wish there were something similar for sunlight, a way of collecting a small pool of it in which I could dip a finger or a brush, then paint the day on the canvas of time stretching ahead.

If the leaf is in a vertical position, dew drops slide on its slightly parabolic surface and end up hanging from the bottom edge, suspended over the abyss, lingering where they can still believe life stands still.

compost pile

nasturtium leaf blanket over compost pile

Nasturtium plants exhibit a tendency to take over our garden. Besides embracing the house in several spots with sometimes suffocating enthusiasm, they climb inside the jasmine bush, wrap themselves around draining pipes, blanket the compost pile, emerge where I least expect them.

Sturdy stems push their way forward with determination: there is no crevice, however small, they won't explore. They find plenty of options around our house, tugged by tectonic forces stronger than its foundations.

garden nasturtium

a tempting crevice

The deep yellow nasturtium flowers out-yellow the sun during the day and the bright orange ones out-orange the setting sun.

Sandwiched between two layers of pasta dough, nasturtium petals make an edible “stained glass” that charms the eyes.

nasturtium petals on rolled pasta

nasturtium petals on rolled pasta

Raw nasturtium flowers pop into a flash of flowery pepperiness in the mouth, a firecracker exploding with flavor rather than sound. They dot the sweetness of butter lettuce or steamed snap beans. Tossed into a skillet with cooked dark leafy greens, their splash of brightness is like lightning fracturing the darkness of the night sky. They wilt quickly in the heat, but don't lose their bright hue.

When I poured warm white wine vinegar into a jar filled with nasturtium flowers and some young leaves, psychedelic orange flowed into the pale vinegar seemingly without flowing out of the petals. The jar became a kind of lantern, lit by an inner glow almost discernible at night, when the jar rested on the dining table, ready to catch the first sun rays piercing the morning fog.

nasturtium vinegar

nasturtium vinegar

The infused vinegar carries nasturtium's spiciness in its aroma. When I bring the open jar to my nose, it tingles with pleasure. I wish adding the vinegar to a salad would also add a streak of its orange color.

In flowers left to complete their life cycle, seedpods develop as the petals wilt and fall off. They cluster in groups of three or four, light green and succulent. They are called "poor man's capers," I learned. One evening, it didn't take me long to harvest a cup.

nasturtium seeds

a special treasure hunt

I carried them to the kitchen on a large nasturtium leaf and pickled them in distilled white vinegar. When the right combination of ingredients presented itself, they played their role well and henceforth will be called "lucky woman's capers."

pickled nasturtium seedpods

lucky woman's capers

Roasted Cauliflower (cavolfiore arrosto)

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for cavolfiore arrosto

An old recipe prepared with a new ingredient

roasted cauliflower

light and lovely side dish

Ingredients:

  1. A head of cauliflower, 1 1/2 lb. (680 g) or so (choose two, if they are small, maybe of different color)
  2. Olive oil
  3. 2 tablespoons drained pickled nasturtium seedpods, chopped (or capers; in Italian: capperi)
  4. A clove of garlic, minced
  5. 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (3/8 teaspoon, if you want it spicier)
  6. 3 tablespoons fresh Meyer lemon juice or a mix of Meyer lemon and orange juice
  7. 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley (prezzemolo)
  8. 2 tablespoons chopped lightly toasted pecans
  9. fine sea salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 425 F.

Cut cauliflower into florets and cut large florets in half. Peel stalk and slice into coins. Place florets, coins and tender cauliflower leaves in an oiled baking pan large enough to hold the florets in one layer. A mister allows you to oil the pan thoroughly and evenly. Spray with olive oil also the cauliflower.

Bake for 12 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare ingredients #3 through #7, place into a small bowl and stir.

Take the pan out of the oven, pour the prepared mixture over the cauliflower and stir. Distribute the pecans over the cauliflower. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the cauliflower is ready to your liking, another 10-12 minutes. Adjust salt, stir, transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

When I serve this side dish (contorno) for dinner to the two of us, we usually have a small amount left over. In a household of less vegevoracious people, I think the recipe serves four.

Whb396This is my contribution to edition #396 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by Haalo herself.

This post contains the roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

nasturzio in cucina

or launch the nasturzio in cucina audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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cauliflower, nasturtium

Newrule

nasturzio in cucina

Garden Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

nasturzio (Tropaeolum majus)

Le larghe foglie a scudo del nasturzio raccolgono rugiada come i pannelli solari raccolgono la luce del sole.

Su una foglia in posizione orizzontale, le gocce di rugiada scivolano verso la depressione centrale. Al mattino, una grossa goccia lenticolare riflette la mia immagine sulla sua superficie convessa in tensione — una cupola che trema nella brezza, un'offerta d'acqua al colibrì in visita di cortesia.

DSC_0254

Vorrei che ci fosse un modo simile per raccogliere dei raggi di sole in una piccola pozza nella quale poter intingere un dito o un pennello e poi dipingere il giorno sulla tela del tempo che si stende davanti a me.

Se la foglia è in posizione verticale, le gocce di rugiada scivolano sulla superficie leggermente parabolica e si fermano in equilibrio instabile sul bordo inferiore, sospese sull'abisso, credendo per un attimo che la vita si possa fermare.

compost pile

coperta di nasturzio sul compost

Le piante di nasturzio hanno tendenze invasive. Oltre ad abbracciare la casa in punti diversi con entusiasmo a volte soffocante, si inerpicano dentro il cespuglio di gelsomino, si attorcigliano intorno ai tubo di scarico, coprono la collina di compost, scavano tunnel sotterranei ed emergono dove meno me l'aspetto.

I rami robusti avanzano con determinazione: non c'è fessura per quanto piccola che non cerchino di esplorare. E hanno da scegliere intorno a casa nostra, strattonata da forze tettoniche più forti delle sue fondamenta.

garden nasturtium

invitante fessura

I fiori giallo profondo hanno un colore più intenso del sole durante il giorno e quelli arancione brillante battono il nostro astro al tramonto. 

Incastonati tra due strati di pasta, i petali di nasturzio fanno una "vetrata colorata" commestibile che incanta gli occhi.

nasturtium petals on rolled pasta

petali di nasturzio su una sfoglia di pasta

I fiori di nasturzio esplodono in bocca come piccoli petardi di piccantezza floreale. Punteggiano la dolcezza della lattuga appena colta o dei fagiolini al vapore. Lanciati in una padella piena di verdura cotta sono come un lampo che frantuma il cielo buio della notte. Appassiscono rapidamente col calore ma non perdono il loro colore brillante.

Quando ho versato l'aceto bianco caldissimo in un vaso di vetro pieno di fiori e foglie tenere di nasturzio, l'arancione psichedelico è fluito nell'aceto pallido senza in apparenza abbandonare i petali. Il vaso diventò una specie di lanterna illuminata da un chiarore interno quasi visibile di notte, quando il vaso rimaneva sul tavolo da pranzo pronto a raccogliere i primi raggi del sole capaci di perforare la nebbia del mattino.

nasturtium vinegar

aceto infuso al nasturzio

L'aceto infuso conserva nel suo aroma la piccantezza del nasturzio che solletica piacevolmente il naso. Come vorrei che aggiungere l'aceto ad un'insalata ci aggiungesse anche una pennellata del suo colore.

Nei fiori che completano il ciclo vitale, mentre i petali appassiscono e cadono, si sviluppano dei piccoli frutti in gruppi di tre o quattro, di color verde chiaro e succulenti. Ho letto che vengono chiamati "capperi dei poveri." Una sera non ci è voluto molto a raccoglierne una tazza.

nasturtium seeds

caccia al tesoro speciale

Li ho portati in cucina su una larga foglia di nasturzio e li ho preparati per conservarli sott'aceto. Quando ho avuto a disposizione la combinazione giusta di ingredienti hanno recitato bene la loro parte e d'ora in poi li chiamerò "capperi dei fortunati."

pickled nasturtium seedpods

capperi dei fortunati

Cavolfiore arrosto

Una vecchia ricetta preparata con un ingrediente nuovo

cavolfiore arrosto

contorno leggero e gustoso

Ingredienti:

  1. Un cavolfiore di 680 g circa (due, se sono piccoli)
  2. 2 cucchiai di frutti di nasturzio sott'aceto scolati, tagliati a pezzetti, oppure capperi (sciacquati e scolati se sotto sale)
  3. Uno spicchio d'aglio tritato
  4. 1/4 cucchiaino fiocchi di peperoncino (un po' più se si vuole maggior piccantezza)
  5. 3 cucchiai (45 ml) succo fresco di limone Meyer lemon o misto arancia e limone Meyer
  6. 4 cucchiai (60 ml) prezzemolo tritato
  7. 2 cucchiai (30 ml) noci pecan leggermente tostate e tritate
  8. sale fino, q.b.

Riscaldare il forno a 218 C.

Lavare il cavolfiore e tagliarlo in cimette. Tagliare a metà le cimette più grosse. Se ha le foglie, scartare quelle esterne, ma mettere da parte quelle tenere interne. Rimuovere la parte dura del gambo e tagliare il rimanente a rondelle. Mettere cimette, foglioline e rondelle di gambo in un solo strato in una teglia da forno ben oliata. Spruzzare dell'olio sul cavolfiore.

Cuocere in forno per 12 minuti.

Nel frattempo, preparare gli ingredienti dal numero 3 al 7, metterli in una ciotola e mescolare.

Sfornare la teglia, versare il condimento sul cavolfiore e mescolare. Distribuire le noci pecan sul cavolfiore. Infornare di nuovo e cuocere per altri 10-12 minuti. Correggere il sale, mescolare, trasferire il cavolfiore su un piatto da portata e servire immediatamente.

Quando servo questo piatto per cena a noi due, di solito ne avanza una piccola quantità. In una famiglia meno golosa di verdure, credo che la ricetta possa servire quattro persone.

Whb396 Questo post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 396 di Weekend Herb Blogging, un evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, organizzato ora da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once, la cui versione italiana è organizzata da Brii di briggishome, e ospitata questa settimana da Haalo.

Questo post contiene il raccolto dell'evento.

limetta / lime

(the English lime is also used in Italian)

I didn't know lime existed until, some time during my childhood, a TV advertisement showed a small green fruit, called lime dei Caraibi (Caribbean lime), together with a bright green shampoo (shampoo) — or maybe it was a bubble bath (bagnoschiuma). The association established by the advertisement between lime and green-colored personal hygiene items has been hard to erase from my mind, so buying and using limes does not come natural to me. Before I get out of the bathroom, let me add that the Italian word limetta has another meaning: nail file.

A little while ago, I saw a yellow lime surrounded by green companions and purchased it out of curiosity: I wanted to see what color it was inside. It was green! I loved the color contrast and should have taken a photo, but it was dinner time, there was no natural light and I was about to use the lime to make the recipe which follows. The next time I visit the store where I made such an interesting purchase, I will look for another yellow lime.

IMGP7650

While shopping at another store, I saw a fruit called sweet lime (limetta dolce) and, of course, I had to try it. It looks like a lemon and it is indeed sweet, so I realized that it is a sort of edible contradiction, since the reason we treasure limes is their sharpness. If that quality is not there, what's the use? I still have half of the sweet lime and I am trying it in different settings, but have no success to report. Do you have any suggestion?

IMGP7639

I have been making the following variation on the theme of cavolfiore arrosto (roasted cauliflower) for a couple of years. It was inspired by a recipe in a magazine called Healthy Cooking. I bought the October 2006 issue of the magazine out of curiosity (a title on the cover said Cook like an Italian…), as I had not seen it before and I don't think I have seen it ever since. I made a few changes to the original recipe, the last one of which is the use of succo di limetta (lime juice) instead of succo di limone (lemon juice).

Preheat oven to 425 F.
Cut a large head of cauliflower (or two small ones) into florets (cut large florets in half) and place in an oiled baking pan.
Bake for 12 minutes.
In the meantime, prepare the following in a small bowl:

  • 2 tablespoons capers (capperi), drained (if you use salted capers instead, rinse them)
  • a clove of garlic, minced
  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • juice of one lime (about 3 tablespoons) 
  • 1/4 cup of finely chopped parsley (prezzemolo)

Take the pan out of the oven, add the prepared mixture, stir, then distribute two tablespoons of finely chopped toasted pecans over it. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the cauliflower is ready to your liking, another 12 minutes or so. Add salt, to taste, stir and serve immediately.

IMG_3343This is my contribution to the event Fresh Produce of the Month: Citrus Fruit (other than lemons and oranges) created by my friend Marta, An Italian in the US, and hosted this month by yours truly.

This post contains the roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

limetta

or launch the limetta  audio file [mp3].