panda (pasta fatta a mano) / panda (handmade pasta shape)

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2571
la pastasciutta con quello che c'è

The poem by George Bradley La past'asciutta con quello che c'è is included in the anthology Sustenance and Desire: A Food Lover's Anthology of Sensuality and Humor by Bascove, which is the current selection of our Cook the Books Club. (The book included a number of inspiring pieces and I may well go back to another one or two later.)

In his poem Bradley captures perfectly my approach to pasta: I sometimes plan ahead, but often I simply create a dressing with what I have available.

Dried pasta's how a cook accommodates
the facts. No artist makes much out of his
dreams but makes the most of what there is.

[If you follow the link you can read the short poem in its entirety.]

In recent years I have largely given up dried pasta in favor of my handmade pasta: I am constantly working on some shape, so I usually have freshly made pasta available. Sometimes I don't have a set plan for the dressing and mi arrangio con quello che c'è (I make do with what I have). The result is often surprisingly good.

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2496

panda resting on linen napkin from La FABBRICA del LINO

Watching young giant panda Bao Bao roll in the snow in the video from the Smithsonian's National Zoo inspired me to create a pasta shape that, in Bao Bao's honor and thanks to a comment by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill, I have called panda (in Italian the word is both singular and plural).

This short video shows my hands at work:

  

As you can see from the video, each small piece of pasta is first stretched with the thumb and then curled with the index finger.  The result is a concave triangle that reminds me of a sitting panda.

The dough I used for this pasta is the semolina dough I have described before. I recently stopped at Keith Giusto Bakery Supply (Central Milling) in Petaluma (CA) and purchased some of their organic semolina flour (soon to become available also from their online store). I love it. It makes a silky dough that is a pleasure to work with.

As usual, I recommend to start with a small amount of dough, so you can give yourself time to learn the hand movements without being overly worried about how much more dough is waiting to be processed. Once the pasta is ready, you can dress it con quello che c'è (literally, with what's there). In the case shown in the top photo, what I had was a small amount of creamy bean and roasted squash spread (recipe in an upcoming post) and some of my homemade crescenza.

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2557
panda with a light sauce (vintage Homer Laughlin "Chanticleer" plate on La FABBRICA del LINO placemat)

Burro e parmigiano (butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano) is another good option. If you like pasta, these are two ingredients you want to make sure to always keep in your refrigerator.


FTC disclosure: I have received the linens free of charge from the manufacturer, la FABBRICA del LINO. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting them on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. 


Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for panda (handmade pasta shape)

Ingredients for the pasta dough:

  • 100 g / 3.5 ounces semolina flour of good quality
  • 50 g / 1.75 ounces warm water
  • A pinch of salt

Ingredients for the dressing:

  • 2 tablespoons bean and roasted squash spread (recipe here)
  • 30 g / 1 ounce Crescenza cheese cut into small pieces

Note: I recommend weighing both flour and water because the quantities involved are small.

How to make the dough and shape the panda
Make a dough with the ingredients and knead until nice and smooth. [This post (with video) talks about how to make semolina pasta dough] Let it rest, well covered (e.g., wrapped in plastic film), for half an hour or so.

Working on the kneading board, roll the dough into a thick salami and cut it into 5-6 pieces. Keep them covered while you shape the panda. Roll each piece into a thin snake (3/8 inch / 1 cm thick), then cut into 3/8 inch / 1 cm long pieces. (Depending on the size of your hands, you may need to increase the dimensions a bit so your fingers can work comfortably.)

Keep some all-purpose flour in a dish on your working surface, so you can rub your thumb and index finger in it if/when the dough sticks to them. With your thumb, draw a piece of dough away from you, flattening it. With the help of your index finger, release the dough so it remains on your working surface. With your index finger, draw the piece of dough towards you with a gentle curling action. The result is a concave triangle that reminds me of a sitting panda.

Do not press hard or the dough will become too thin. With practice, you will find what is the right amount of pressure to apply to the dough. Lay the panda out on a lightly floured section of the kneading board (or a baking sheet lined with a cotton kitchen towel or, in my case, a linen placemat). Handle the shaped pasta gently so as not to without misshape it.

Repeat until you have used up the prepared dough.

Cook the panda and dress as you like. The following is just a suggestion.

How to cook the panda
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil, add some coarse salt, stir and then toss the panda  in it. The time needed to cook them is a bit variable, depending on the size and dryness of the pasta.

Place the bean spread in a small skillet, add a small amount of the water in which the pasta is cooking and stir to make a soft cream. Add the cheese and stir to distribute. When the pasta is almost ready, place the skillet over low heat to melt the cheese.

Taste and stop the cooking when the panda are ready. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot, stir and drain the panda. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot and stir. Drain the panda leaving a little bit of the cooking water clinging to the pasta and drop into the skillet with the sauce. Stir well over medium-low heat for about half a minute. Plate and serve immediately.

The recipe makes two small portions (served as Italian first course).

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2558-2
pretty in sepia

A reminder that there is a page on the blog where you can browse the complete collection of handmade pasta shapes, some of them, like the panda above, of my own creation.


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Rachel of The Crispy Cook. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


New bww logoThe photo is my contribution to edition #156 of Black and White Wednesday – A Culinary Photography Event created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook, now organized by Cinzia of Cindystar, and hosted until February 4 by me, Simona of briciole.

The photo was shot in color with my iPhone and then converted to sepia (Lightroom preset Sepia Tone).

The gallery of images contributed to the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

panda (pasta fatta a mano)

or launch the panda (pasta fatta a mano) audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

pasta, semolina flourItalian cuisine

 

Crescenza fatta in casa / homemade Crescenza

image from www.flickr.com

savoring the fruit of my labor

Crescenza is a soft, rindless cheese from Lombardia that is great to eat on its own, to savor its fresh, milky flavor, or to use in cooking. A few weeks ago, I read this post, in which Ian, one of the participants in the Cheesepalooza event, described his experience making Crescenza according to Mary Karlin's recipe. I immediately decided to try making it. I found Ms. Karlin's recipe on this page, whereas Ian got it from her book Artisan Cheese Making at Home. [March 22, 2014 update: the page on Culture magazine's website referenced in the last sentence is no longer available, so when I recently made Crescenza again, I followed the recipe on this page, but halved the amount of milk and of the other ingredients and also of the time the cheese is brined. Having in the meantime acquired a 7.5-inch / 19 cm round mold, I make only one cheese. Read the post until the end when I discussed aging, another place where I diverge from the original recipe.]

Here are some images from the process (as you know, I ♥ making cheese):

image from www.flickr.com

early draining phase

I don't have square bottomless molds, so I used two cylindrical bottomless molds.

Advice #1 When a cylindrical bottomless mold has just been filled with curds, it is quite unstable. A minor jiggle may cause it to lift up, in which case the curds will rush out from the bottom: not what you want (trust me). To help prevent the mold from moving, I suggest to put a sterilized piece of cloth under the mold (as shown in this post). You won't see such a cloth in the photo, because this time I forgot to use it.

image from www.flickr.com

late draining phase

It does not take a long time for the mass of curds to lose whey (siero di latte) and become more compact. Once draining is done, the cheese is moved into a brine bath (salamoia).

image from www.flickr.com

in the brine

Advice #2. When moving cheese, for example from the draining box into the brine and then from the brine back into the draining box, never pick it up by pressing your fingers on the side, but always raise it by placing your hands underneath it.

While the cheese was brining, I made ricotta with the leftover whey.

image from www.flickr.com

just out of the brine

In case you are wondering, the texture on the surface is a combination of the imprints of two different draining mats.

After brining, the cheese is air-dried, covered, for an hour before being refrigerated.

image from www.flickr.com

veiled beauties

Overall, the recipe is pretty straightforward and since this is a fresh cheese, you don't have to wait long to taste the fruit of your labor. How long? On this important point, the recipe is not specific. These are the last two sentences:

Wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap or vacuum-seal, and refrigerate until ready to use. Best if used within one week. Bring to room temperature before serving

I wrapped the two cheeses in plastic wrap and refrigerated them, then took one out before dinner and tasted it: the texture was nice, but the flavor bland. I wrapped it again and put it back in the refrigerator. Two days later, I emptied the whey that had collected at the bottom of the container where the cheeses were and prepared it for a second taste: much better. I could start to taste the distinctive delicate tang of Crescenza. The flavor continued to improve in the following 3-4 days, then plateaued. My observation is actually consistent with what I read in a couple of pages (like this one and this one, both in Italian), where the ripening time of crescenza is indicated to be 5-7 days. Hence, the second time I made crescenza, I let it ripen 5 days before tasting it.

In the introdutory note, Ms. Karlin says: "A small amount of rennet is also stirred in, resulting in a slightly firmer cheese than classic Crescenza." This is fine by me. I definitely agree with the last instruction: bring cheese to room temperature before serving it.

My Crescenza was such a success that both times I have made it, it has disappeared quickly (within a few days of first tasting). Crescenza is great on a piece of bread (the one in the top photo is pumpkin bread) and in cooked dishes (for example, instead of robiola in my curried sweet chilli peppers and also in my version of a traditional Italian cheese dish that will be the subject of a post in the near future).

Cheesepalooza-BadgeValerie of A Canadian Foodie has launched a year long event called Cheesepalooza, which encourages people to take up home cheese making via monthly challenges of increasing complexity. Crescenza is one of the optional cheeses chosen for the second month, when the main challenge was making basic chèvre. This post contains the roundup of optional cheeses for month #2.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

Crescenza fatta in casa

or launch the Crescenza fatta in casa audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

crescenza, cheese