pear sourdough bread / pane al lievito naturale con le pere

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

pear sourdough bread / IMG_3778

homemade bread and cheese: a favorite couple
(Italian linen from La FABBRICA del LINO)

Point Reyes Sheriff's Calls by Susanna Solomon1 is a collection of short stories set in West Marin, one of the most beautiful areas of California. The title of the book comes from the Sheriff's Calls section of the local newspaper, the Point Reyes Light2. Each story starts with an entry from that section. For example, the story that inspired me, "Dressed Only in Jeans," starts with this:

From the Sheriff's Calls Section in The Point Reyes Light, November 1, 2012

Stinson Beach: At 9:09 a.m. a frizzy-haired man dressed only in jeans was found locked in the library at Audubon Canyon Ranch.

I heard the author read one of the stories at an event before the book was published and from that day on I looked forward to reading the collection. When it came out, I purchased the version for my iPad and carried it around with me, reading a couple of stories at a time, like nibbling a special piece of chocolate. I dreaded getting to the last story, to the last page. 

The stories are miniatures. They ask the reader to pay attention to the details of place and dialog. With precise and lively language, the author gives life to a delightful set of characters. Soon I cared about aging Mildred and Fred, young Alice and Thomas, and Police Officer Linda Kettleman. The reader is drawn into conversations, discussions and standoffs.

I like that the stories show the characters at their best, their worst and all the shades in between: they can be selfish and insensitive, but also generous and even heroic; they can be silly or stubborn, but also thoughtful and selfless. They deal with daily occurrences (shopping, cooking, doing laundry, watching a baseball game) and with life's challenges: growing up, growing old, being homeless. 

A homeless man, Anson Baker, is the protagonist of "Dressed Only in Jeans." Linda is called by the library's staff when they find him locked inside. She sees through the lies he answers to her questions, but the librarians decide not to press charges, so Linda lets Anson go and leaves:

Anson watched her drive off. It was a nice day, clearing up and all, and the mist was rising off of Inverness Ridge… he could hitch into town, bum a meal, but there were too many people there. Still, the thought of eggs and bacon and sausage and sourdough bread made him crazy.

Asian pear Nijisseiki and fresh rosemary / IMG_3767

Asian pear Nijisseiki and fresh rosemary enrich the dough

Making sourdough bread is one of my passions. For Anson, I baked a boule enriched with Asian pears from Neukom Family Farm. I tried a few different variations (including one with oven-roasted pears and one with toasted cashews) and finally settled on one that uses pears of the variety Nijisseiki (a.k.a., 20th Century) and fresh rosemary (rosmarino) from my herb garden.3 I used basically the same ingredients of my recent Carrot sourdough bread4, because I love the flavor and texture of the result.

Printer-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Pear sourdough bread

Important: this bread uses sourdough starter (lievito naturale or pasta madre) that requires a bit of advanced planning.

sourdough starter / IMG_3151

sourdough starter ready to be used

Ingredients:

For the preferment

  • 50 g sourdough starter, refreshed previously, if stored in the refrigerator
  • 100 g water
  • 100 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I always use to make bread) 

For the pears

  • 180 g Asian pears Nijisseiki (a.k.a., 20th Century), possibly organic
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary needles

For the dough

  • 220 g preferment (sourdough starter) prepared in advance with the ingredients listed above
  • 220 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 teaspoon  instant yeast
  • 40 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour + 35 g sprouted whole-wheat flour OR 75 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
  • 295 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour
  • 5 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 8 g fine sea salt

Prepare the preferment
10-12 hours before starting to make the bread, prepare the preferment: weigh the ingredients in a container, stir well with a fork, cover and let ferment at room temperature in a draft-free place. (Adjust the timing as needed for your starter and your room temperature so that by the time you start making bread the preferment is bubbly active, as in the photo above.)

Prepare the pears
Shortly before starting the dough preparation, rinse pears well, quarter, core and cut into small dice, about 1/4-3/8 inch / 0.5-1 cm. You should end up with 160 g diced pears.

Add the chopped rosemary to the pears.

Prepare the dough
I start making the bread early in the morning, so I am sure the bread will be baked and thoroughly cooled by dinner time.

In a bowl, mix preferment (sourdough starter), water and instant yeast. The small amount of yeast I use helps keep the leavening process within a predictable time frame in the cool environment of our house. 

Add the flours and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk.

Add pears, rosemary and olive oil and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Sprinkle salt on the surface.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rest 5 minutes. In the meantime, oil well a plastic tub with lid where you will transfer the dough when fully mixed.

Wet the spoon (if using it) and mix dough until it is homogeneous.

Transfer the dough to the oiled tub. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the tub and let rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on The SF Baking Institute website describes and shows a couple of important techniques I apply to bread dough.

  1. Stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development
  2. Pre-shaping and shaping rounds (useful for later)

The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch about 8 minutes until Mac shows how to shape a boule.

  • A) Stretch and letter-fold the dough in the tub, rotate 90 degrees then stretch and letter-fold again. Flip the dough so it is seam side down.
  • B) Cover and let rest for 45 minutes.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours.

Check gluten development by stretching a corner of the dough to make a windowpane. If you don't get a windowpane, let dough ferment a little longer. 

Shape the bread
Lightly flour your working surface and transfer dough onto it. Use a bench scraper to help you move and turn the dough.

Gently pat dough to flatten it into a thick circle and degas. Fold corners of dough towards the center, flip (so it is seam side down) and pre-shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 8'). Move the round towards you, then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring a bit of tension to the dough, but not as much as you will later, during shaping.

Let pre-shaped round rest for 20 minutes, covered (I leave it on the kneading board and cover it with the plastic tub turned upside down).

In the meantime, cut a square of parchment paper (approx. 14-inch / 36 cm long). Lightly oil the bottom of a lidded cast-iron Dutch oven so that the parchment paper does not stick to it. I used my 5-Qt one; a 4.5-Qt one should work as well.

Flip the dough (so it is seam side up) and flatten lightly, then fold corners of dough towards the center. Flip (so it is seam side down) and shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 12'). Move the round towards you then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring tension to the dough, but do not overdo or the surface will tear.

pear sourdough bread dough / IMG_3769

shaped boule ready for proofing

Gently transfer the shaped dough to the center of the prepared parchment paper. Pick up the paper by the corners and transfer to the Dutch oven. Cover (a clean shower cap works well for this) and let dough rest until doubled in size (also, until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists), in my case about 3 hours, depending on the room temperature. 

Prepare the oven and bake the bread
When the dough is 1/2 hour or so from being ready, preheat the oven to 500 F / 260 C.5

Uncover the dough, score the surface according to your preference, lightly mist the dough's surface, place the lid on the Dutch oven and place in the hot oven.

Lower the oven temperature to 475 F / 245 C. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the lid from the Dutch oven and lower the temperature to 450 F / 230 C.

Bake for an additional 15 minutes. At this point, check the bread's internal temperature: if it is 210 F / 99 C, it is ready. Otherwise, continue baking for another 2 minutes, then check again.

Carefully extract the bread out of the Dutch oven using the parchment paper flaps to lift it up. Place on a rack to cool. Restrain your desire to go at the bread with your knife: let it cool completely, at least two hours, but possibly longer. Slice and feast on it with all your senses. 

pear sourdough bread / IMG_3779

homemade bread and fruit preserves: a perfect breakfast
(Italian linen from La FABBRICA del LINO)

Lightly sweet pears and lightly tangy sourdough alternate in each bite and rosemary adds an aromatic note. Warning: it is hard to stop eating it, especially when paired with cheese or fruit preserves.

Limantour Beach / IMG_2441

Limantour Beach (Point Reyes National Seashore)

We like to visit Point Reyes National Seashore6 (one of the most precious jewels of our National Park system) and stay in Point Reyes Station. The photo above is from last December and shows one of the places mentioned in the book.


1 Point Reyes Sheriff’s Calls web page, which includes maps, excerpts and photos of the places mentioned in the stories.
2 Point Reyes Light website
3 Bread baker extraordinaire Barbara of Bread and companatico has recently baked a traditional Italian pane con le pere (which includes rye flour, hazelnuts and butter). Reading her post also nudged me towards trying using pears in my sourdough.

4 Carrot Sourdough Bread on briciole
5 Baking in a cast-iron pan without preheat
6 Point Reyes National Seashore


FTC disclosure: I have received the linens free of charge from the manufacturer, la FABBRICA del LINO. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting them on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. 


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 25th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the September edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena?.

 


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

pane al lievito naturale con pere

or launch the pane al lievito naturale con pere audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

breadhomemade breadsourdoughpearsAsian pears

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Newrule

pane al lievito naturale con le pere

pear sourdough bread / IMG_3778

pane e formaggio fatti in casa: che coppia!
(tovaglietta di lino de La FABBRICA del LINO)

Fare il pane al lievito naturale è una delle mie passioni. E in questo periodo consumiamo molte pere asiatiche, succose e dal sapore aromatico.1

Asian pear Nijisseiki and fresh rosemary / IMG_3767

pere asiatiche Nijisseiki e rosmarino fresco arricchiscono l'impasto

 Importante: per questo pane utilizzo della pasta madre quindi occorre pianificare in anticipo.

sourdough starter / IMG_3151
pronto all'uso

Ingredienti:

Per la pasta fermentata

  • 50 g pasta madre, rinfrescata in precedenza, se conservata in frigorifero
  • 100 g acqua
  • 100 g farina di grano forte

Per le pere

  • 180 g pere nashi o altro tipo di pere a polpa soda, possibilmente bio
  • 1 cucchiaio di aghi di rosmarino tritati

Per l'impasto

  • 220 g pasta fermentata preparata in anticipo con gli ingredienti di cui sopra
  • 220 ml acqua at 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 cucchiaino lievito di birra secco istantaneo
  • 75 g farina integrale per pane
  • 295 g farina di grano forte
  • 5 ml olio extra-virgine di oliva
  • 8 g sale marino fino

Preparare la pasta fermentata
10-12 ore prima di impastare il pane, pesare gli ingredienti per la pasta fermentata in un contenitore, mescolare bene con una forchetta, coprire e far fermentare a temperatura ambiente. Al momento dell'uso la pasta presenta una superficie cosparsa di bollicine.

Preparare le pere
Poco prima di cominciare a impastare, lavare le pere, tagliarle in quarti, rimuovere il torsolo e tagliarle a dadini di 0.5-1 cm di lato. Dovreste avere 160 di pere a dadini.

Aggiungere il rosmarino alle pere.

Preparare l'impasto
In una ciotola capiente mescolare la pasta fermentata, l'acqua e il lievito di birra secco istantaneo.

Incorporare le farine. Aggiungere le pere, il rosmarino e l'olio d'oliva e mescolare fino a formare un impasto grossolano. Spargere il sale sulla superficie.

Coprire la ciotola e far riposare l'impasto per 5 minuti. Nel frattempo, oliare un capiente contenitore di plastica con coperchio che userete per la fermentazione.

Mescolare fino ad ottenere un impasto omogeneo. (Se usate un cucchiaio di legno, bagnatelo prima.)

Trasferire l'impasto nel contenitore oliato. Con le mani bagnate, tirare delicatamente l'impasto da un lato e piegarlo verso il lato opposto. Ripetere dall'altra parte, come se piegaste un foglio di carta in terzi per metterlo in una busta. Voltare l'impasto piegato sottosopra. Coprire il contenitore con il suo coperchio e lasciar riposare per 45 minuti.

Questo video sull sito del SF Baking Institute mostra un paio di tecniche importanti:

  1. Tiratura e piegamento
  2. Preformazione e formazione di una boule, o pane rotondo (utile in seguito)

Il video non è lungo ma se non avete tempo di guardarlo tutto, potete cominciare a 4':30" e guardare circa 8 minuti fino a quando Mac forma la boule.

  • A) Con le mani umide, tirare l'impasto da un lato e piegarlo verso il lato opposto. Ripetere dall'altra parte, come se piegaste un foglio di carta in terzi per metterlo in una busta. Ruotare l'impasto di 90 gradi e ripetere tiratura e piegamento. Rivoltare l'impasto in modo che la piega sia in basso.
  • B) Coprire e lasciar riposare per 45 minuti.

Ripetere A e B altre due volte. A questo punto il glutine dovrebbe essere ben sviluppato.

Formare il pane
Infarinare leggermente il piano di lavoro e rovesciarci sopra l'impasto.

Spianare leggermente l'impasto a formare un quadrato spesso. Piegare verso il centro gli angoli, rovesciare e su un pezzo di piano senza farina far roteare l'impasto in modo da creare un pochino di tensione in superficie (vedi video a 8').

Corprire con il contenitore rovesciata e far riposare 20 minuti.

Nel frattempo, tagliare un quadrato di carta da forno lungo almeno 36 cm. Ungere leggermente il fondo di una pentola di ghisa tipo Dutch oven . La mia è da 5 quarti (4,75 litri); una da 4,5 quarti (4,25 litri) dovrebbe anche andare bene.

Rovesciare l'impasto e spianarlo leggermente, poi piegare verso il centro gli angoli. Rovesciare su un pezzo di piano senza farina e far roteare l'impasto in modo da creare tensione in superficie (vedi video a 12'), ma senza lacerarla. Muovere l'impasto verso di voi con una leggera rotazione e allo stesso tempo rimboccarlo sotto.

pear sourdough bread dough / IMG_3769

pronto per la lievitazione finale

Trasferire l'impasto formato al centro del pezzo di carta da forno, poi raccogliere gli angoli e trasferire il tutto dentro la pentola di ghisa. Coprire e lasciar riposare fino a quando l'impasto sia raddoppiato di volume e una fossetta fatta sulla pasta colla punta del dito persiste. Il tempo necessario dipende dalla temperatura ambiente: nel mio caso, circa 3 ore.

Preparare il forno e cuocere il pane
Quando l'impasto è quasi pronto, preriscaldare il forno a 260 C.3

Scoprire l'impasto, tagliare la superficie a piacere, spruzzarla leggermente di acqua, mettere il coperchio alla pentola di ghisa e infornare.

Abbassare la temperatura a 245 C. Cuocere per 20 minuti. Scoperchiare la pentola di ghisa ed abbassare ulteriormente la temperatura a 230 C.

Cuocere per altri 15 minuti. A questo punto controllare la temperatura interna del pane: se è 99 C, il pane è pronto. Altrimenti, continuare la cottura per altri 2 minuti e controllare di nuovo.

Estrarre il pane dalla pentola di ghisa tirando su gli angoli della carta da forno. Trasferire il pane su una griglia e far raffreddare senza disturbarlo, almeno due ore, poi affettare e gustare.

pear sourdough bread / IMG_3779

pane e conserva di frutta fatti in casa: colazione perfetta
(tovaglietta di lino de La FABBRICA del LINO)

In questo gustoso pane pere dolci e pasta acida si alternano in ciascun boccone e il rosmarino aggiunge una nota aromatica. Attenzione: è difficile smettere di mangiarlo, soprattutto quando è accompagnato da del buon formaggio o conserva di frutta.


1 Di recente Barbara di Bread and companatico ha preparato un pane con le pere italiano tradizionale (la cui ricetta comprende farina di segale, nocciole e burro). Il post ha contribuito a farmi decidere di fare il pane utilizzando le pere.
2 Pane al lievito naturale con carote su briciole
3 Baking in a cast-iron pan without preheat


FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall'azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.


Nuovo italia (1)Mando questo pane anche all'edizione di Settembre di Panissimo un evento mensile creato da Barbara di Bread & Companatico e Sandra di Indovina chi viene a cena?

 

 

recipe: pear sourdough bread


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carrot sourdough bread / pane al lievito naturale con le carote

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

carrot sourdough bread / IMG_3108

homemade bread with homemade cheese: a winning combination

Eilish Eam, an Irish child alone in the world, survives in London by playing a glass harmonica1 on the street. Erin Rushton, an American young woman plays the same instrument in concert halls. They are the protagonists of the novel The Glass Harmonica by Louise Marley.2

In 1761, the path of Eilish's life changes dramatically following her meeting with Benjamin Franklin, who lived in London for 16 years between 1757 and 1775. Erin's story is set in 2018. Eilish is deeply attached to a crippled child named Mackie, while Erin has a strong relationship with her twin brother, Charlie, who lost use of his legs due to a genetic disease. Franklin's important presence in Eilish's life is mirrored by that of Gene Berrick in Erin's.

The novel captured my attention from the first pages and held it until the last. It goes back and forth between the two stories, in the meantime describing the worlds in which they are set and a cast of characters that, besides Mackie, Franklin, Charlie and Berrick, includes the inhabitants of the house in Craven Street, London, where Franklin lived, Erin's agent and her mother.

Eilish's worries about surviving end once she moves into the house in Craven Street, where, among other things, she eats buttered bread for breakfast and tea. Erin finds "natural-yeast bread" in her brother's kitchen, a sign that the new treatment he is undergoing with Dr. Berrick includes a healthier diet. So, I decided to create a bread for the two E's of the book (Charlie actually calls his sister simply E).

carrots

smiling for the camera

A recipe for Beetroot Sourdough bread in the book How to Make Bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou and beautiful carrots in my CSA share gave me the idea to create a carrot sourdough loaf enriched with fresh thyme (timo). The amount of starter, root vegetables and flour come from the book. As usual, I substituted 20% of the white wheat flour with whole-wheat flour. The use of a small amount of instant yeast and the process to make and shape the dough come from what I learned at the San Francisco Baking Institute. After using various baking options, I tried a variation of the cast-iron pan baking I read about on The Fresh Loaf site3 and that's the one I recommend.

sourdough starter / IMG_3151
starter ready to be used

Printer-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Carrot sourdough bread

Important: this bread uses sourdough starter (lievito naturale or pasta madre) that requires a bit of advanced planning.

Ingredients:

For the preferment

  • 50 g sourdough starter, refreshed previously, if stored in the refrigerator
  • 100 g water
  • 100 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I always use to make bread) 

For the carrots

  • 160 g fresh carrots, possibly organic
  • Leaves of several sprigs of fresh thyme

For the dough

  • 220 g preferment (sourdough starter) prepared in advance with the ingredients listed above
  • 220 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 teaspoon  instant yeast 
  • 75 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
  • 295 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour
  • 5 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 8 g fine sea salt

Prepare the preferment
10-12 hours before starting to make the bread, prepare the preferment: weigh the ingredients in a container, stir well with a fork, cover and let ferment at room temperature in a draft-free place. (Adjust the timing as needed for your starter and your room temperature so that by the time you start making bread the preferment is bubbly active, as in the photo above.)

Prepare the carrots
Shortly before starting the dough preparation, scrub carrots well and scrape surface to remove a thin layer of skin. Grate carrots using the extra-coarse side of a hand grater.

Add the thyme leaves to the carrots.

grated carrots and thyme / IMG_3157

Prepare the dough
I start making the bread early in the morning, so I am sure the bread will be baked and thoroughly cooled by dinner time.

In a bowl, mix preferment (sourdough starter), water and instant yeast. The small amount of yeast I use helps keep the leavening process within a predictable time frame in the cool environment of our house. 

Add the flours and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk.

Add carrots, thyme and olive oil and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Sprinkle salt on the surface.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rest 5 minutes. In the meantime, oil well a plastic tub with lid where you will transfer the dough when fully mixed.

Wet the spoon (if using it) and mix dough until it is homogeneous.

Transfer the dough to the oiled tub. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the tub and let rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on The SF Baking Institute website describes and shows a couple of important techniques I apply to bread dough.

  1. Stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development
  2. Pre-shaping and shaping rounds (useful for later)

The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch about 8 minutes until Mac shows how to shape a boule.

  • A) Stretch and letter-fold the dough in the tub, rotate 90 degrees then stretch and letter-fold again. Flip the dough so it is seam side down.
  • B) Cover and let rest for 45 minutes.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours.

Check gluten development by stretching a corner of the dough to make a windowpane. If you don't get a windowpane, let dough ferment a little longer. 

Shape the bread
Lightly flour your working surface and transfer dough onto it. Use a bench scraper to help you move and turn the dough.

Gently pat dough to flatten it into a thick circle and degas. Fold corners of dough towards the center, flip (so it is seam side down) and pre-shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 8'). Move the round towards you, then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring a bit of tension to the dough, but not as much as you will later, during shaping.

Let pre-shaped round rest for 20 minutes, covered (I leave it on the kneading board and cover it with the plastic tub turned upside down).

In the meantime, cut a square of parchment paper (approx. 14-inch / 36 cm long). Lightly oil the bottom of a lidded cast-iron Dutch oven so that the parchment paper does not stick to it. I used my 5-Qt one; a 4.5-Qt one should work as well.

Flip the dough (so it is seam side up) and flatten lightly, then fold corners of dough towards the center. Flip (so it is seam side down) and shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 12'). Move the round towards you then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring tension to the dough, but do not overdo or the surface will tear.

carrot sourdough bread / IMG_3261

shaped boule

Gently transfer the shaped dough to the center of the prepared parchment paper. Pick up the paper by the corners and transfer to the Dutch oven. Cover (a clean shower cap works well for this) and let dough rest until doubled in size (also, until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists), in my case about 3 hours, depending on the room temperature. 

carrot sourdough bread / IMG_3266

ready for the oven

Prepare the oven and bake the bread
When the dough is almost ready, preheat the oven to 500 F / 260 C.

Uncover the dough, score the surface according to your preference, lightly mist the dough's surface, place the lid on the Dutch oven and place in the hot oven.

Lower the oven temperature to 475 F / 245 C. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the lid from the Dutch oven and lower the temperature to 450 F / 230 C.

Bake for an additional 15 minutes. At this point, check the bread's internal temperature: if it is 210 F / 99 C, it is ready. Otherwise, continue baking for another 2 minutes, then check again.

Carefully extract the bread out of the Dutch oven using the parchment paper flaps to lift it up. Place on a rack to cool. Restrain your desire to go at the bread with your knife: let it cool completely, at least two hours, then slice and feast on it with all your senses. 

carrot sourdough bread / IMG_3288

a little bit sweet and a little bit sour in an elegant balance

In this lovely bread, lightly sweet carrots and lightly tangy sourdough alternate in each bite and thyme adds an aromatic note. Warning: it is hard to stop eating it, especially when paired with cheese.

San Francisco sourdough bread has become a classic:

It was 1849, on an October day … — the exact date is lost in the mist of time — when Isadore Boudin, an experienced French baker, married the ordinary sourdough yeast used by miners of the time with a French-style loaf of bread to create a classic.4

My recipe pays a personal tribute to that classic and celebrates the beautiful city that I learned to love many years ago, as an Italian teenager, by watching the TV series The Streets of San Francisco.The special occasion is the 13th installment of the World Culinary ABC6 which has brought us to visit the US (Stati Uniti) and which I am hosting.6


1 Wikipedia: glass harmonica
2 Google books: The Glass Harmonica
3 Baking in a cast-iron pan without preheat
4 A quick history of San Francisco sourdough bread
5 The Streets of San Francisco
6 The World Culinary ABC kick-off post.


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 24th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.


I contribute my sourdough bread also to the 13th installment of the Abbecedario culinario mondiale (World Culinary ABC), an event organized by Trattoria MuVarA that will bring us to visit 27 countries of the world using the alphabet as guide. M like Minneapolis (USA) is hosted by me, Simona of briciole.

The list of recipes contributed to the event and their slide show


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the June edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena?.

 


Nowy2And to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish).

 


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

pane al lievito naturale con carote

or launch the pane al lievito naturale con carote audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

breadhomemade breadsourdoughcarrots

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pane al lievito naturale con le carote

carrot sourdough bread / IMG_3108

pane e formaggio fatti in casa: una combinazione vincente

Il pane al lievito naturale di San Francisco è diventato un classico (sourdough letteralmente vuol dire pasta acida):

Un giorno di Ottobre del 1849… Isadore Boudin, esperto panettiere francese, preparò del pane in stile francese lievitato con la pasta acida utilizzata dai cercatori d'oro e così creò un classico.1

La mia ricetta è un tributo personale a tale classico e celebra la bellissima città che ho imparato ad amare tanti anni fa, quando ancora abitavo in Italia, attraverso i film per la TV Le strade di San Francisco.L'occasione è la tredicesima tappa dell'Abbecedario culinario mondiale che ci ha portato a visitare gli USA e per la quale fungo da ospite.3

carrote

adoro le carote

La ricetta per Beetroot Sourdough bread (pane al lievito naturale con barbabietole rosse) nel libro How to Make Bread di Emmanuel Hadjiandreou e delle belle carote nella mia cassettina mi hanno dato l'idea di creare un pane al lievito naturale con carote aromatizzato al timo. Dal libro ho preso le dosi di pasta madre, verdura e farina. Come al solito ho sostituito il 20% della farina bianca con farina integrale. L'utilizzo di un pochino di lievito di birra secco istantaneo e il procedimento per preparare e dare la forma all'impasto fanno parte di quando ho imparato al San Francisco Baking Institute. Dopo aver utilizzato vari modi di cottura, ho provato una variante di quella che utilizza una pentola di ghisa presentata sul sito The Fresh Loaf site3 ed è quella che raccomando.

sourdough starter / IMG_3151
pronto all'uso

Importante: per questo pane utilizzo della pasta madre quindi occorre pianificare in anticipo.

Ingredienti:

Per la pasta fermentata

  • 50 g pasta madre, rinfrescata in precedenza, se conservata in frigorifero
  • 100 g acqua
  • 100 g farina di grano forte

Per le carote

  • 160 g carote fresche, possibilmente bio
  • foglie di diversi rametti di timo fresco

Per l'impasto

  • 220 g pasta fermentata preparata in anticipo con gli ingredienti di cui sopra
  • 220 ml acqua at 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 cucchiaino lievito di birra secco istantaneo
  • 75 g farina integrale per pane
  • 295 g farina di grano forte
  • 5 ml olio extra-virgine di oliva
  • 8 g sale marino fino

Preparare la pasta fermentata
10-12 ore prima di impastare il pane, pesare gli ingredienti per la pasta fermentata in un contenitore, mescolare bene con una forchetta, coprire e far fermentare a temperatura ambiente. Al momento dell'uso la pasta presenta una superficie cosparsa di bollicine.

Preparare le carote
Poco prima di cominciare a impastare, lavare bene le carote e raschiarne la superficie con una lama per rimuovere la pellicina. Grattugiatele con la grattugia a buchi grossi.

Aggiungere le foglie di timo alle carote.

carote grattugiate e timo / IMG_3157

Preparare l'impasto
In una ciotola capiente mescolare la pasta fermentata, l'acqua e il lievito di birra secco istantaneo.

Incorporare le farine. Aggiungere le carote, il timo e l'olio d'oliva e mescolare fino a formare un impasto grossolano. Spargere il sale sulla superficie.

Coprire la ciotola e far riposare l'impasto per 5 minuti. Nel frattempo, oliare un capiente contenitore di plastica con coperchio che userete per la fermentazione.

Mescolare fino ad ottenere un impasto omogeneo. (Se usate un cucchiaio di legno, bagnatelo prima.)

Trasferire l'impasto nel contenitore oliato. Con le mani bagnate, tirare delicatamente l'impasto da un lato e piegarlo verso il lato opposto. Ripetere dall'altra parte, come se piegaste un foglio di carta in terzi per metterlo in una busta. Voltare l'impasto piegato sottosopra. Coprire il contenitore con il suo coperchio e lasciar riposare per 45 minuti.

Questo video sull sito del SF Baking Institute mostra un paio di tecniche importanti:

  1. Tiratura e piegamento
  2. Preformazione e formazione di una boule, o pane rotondo (utile in seguito)

Il video non è lungo ma se non avete tempo di guardarlo tutto, potete cominciare a 4':30" e guardare circa 8 minuti fino a quando Mac forma la boule.

  • A) Con le mani umide, tirare l'impasto da un lato e piegarlo verso il lato opposto. Ripetere dall'altra parte, come se piegaste un foglio di carta in terzi per metterlo in una busta. Ruotare l'impasto di 90 gradi e ripetere tiratura e piegamento. Rivoltare l'impasto in modo che la piega sia in basso.
  • B) Coprire e lasciar riposare per 45 minuti.

Ripetere A e B altre due volte. A questo punto il glutine dovrebbe essere ben sviluppato.

Formare il pane
Infarinare leggermente il piano di lavoro e rovesciarci sopra l'impasto.

Spianare leggermente l'impasto a formare un quadrato spesso. Piegare verso il centro gli angoli, rovesciare e su un pezzo di piano senza farina far roteare l'impasto in modo da creare un pochino di tensione in superficie (vedi video a 8').

Corprire con il contenitore rovesciata e far riposare 20 minuti.

Nel frattempo, tagliare un quadrato di carta da forno lungo almeno 36 cm. Ungere leggermente il fondo di una pentola di ghisa tipo Dutch oven . La mia è da 5 quarti (4,75 litri); una da 4,5 quarti (4,25 litri) dovrebbe anche andare bene.

Rovesciare l'impasto e spianarlo leggermente, poi piegare verso il centro gli angoli. Rovesciare su un pezzo di piano senza farina e far roteare l'impasto in modo da creare tensione in superficie (vedi video a 12'), ma senza lacerarla. Muovere l'impasto verso di voi con una leggera rotazione e allo stesso tempo rimboccarlo sotto.

pane al lievito naturale con carote / IMG_3261

pronto per la lievitazione finale

Trasferire l'impasto formato al centro del pezzo di carta da forno, poi raccogliere gli angoli e trasferire il tutto dentro la pentola di ghisa. Coprire e lasciar riposare fino a quando l'impasto sia raddoppiato di volume e una fossetta fatta sulla pasta colla punta del dito persiste. Il tempo necessario dipende dalla temperatura ambiente: nel mio caso, circa 3 ore.

pane al lievito naturale con carote / IMG_3266

pronto per il forno

Preparare il forno e cuocere il pane
Quando l'impasto è quasi pronto, preriscaldare il forno a 260 C.

Scoprire l'impasto, tagliare la superficie a piacere, spruzzarla leggermente di acqua, mettere il coperchio alla pentola di ghisa e infornare.

Abbassare la temperatura a 245 C. Cuocere per 20 minuti. Scoperchiare la pentola di ghisa ed abbassare ulteriormente la temperatura a 230 C.

Cuocere per altri 15 minuti. A questo punto controllare la temperatura interna del pane: se è 99 C, il pane è pronto. Altrimenti, continuare la cottura per altri 2 minuti e controllare di nuovo.

Estrarre il pane dalla pentola di ghisa tirando su gli angoli della carta da forno. Trasferire il pane su una griglia e far raffreddare senza disturbarlo, almeno due ore, poi affettare e gustare.

pane al lievito naturale con carote / IMG_3288

dolcezza e acidità in elegante equilibrio

In questo gustoso pane carote dolci e pasta acida si alternano in ciascun boccone e il timo aggiunge una nota aromatica. Attenzione: è difficile smettere di mangiarlo, soprattutto quando è accompagnato da del buon formaggio.


1 A quick history of San Francisco sourdough bread (traduzione della citazione mia)
2 Wikipedia: Le strade di San Francisco
3 Post inaugurale dell'Abbecedario culinario mondiale
4 Baking in a cast-iron pan without preheat


Con questa ricetta partecipo alla tredicesima tappa dell'Abbecedario culinario mondiale, un evento organizzato dalla Trattoria MuVarA che ci porterà a visitare 27 paesi del mondo usando le lettere dell'alfabeto come guida. M come Minneapolis (Stati Uniti) è ospitata da me, Simona di briciole.

La lista di ricette contribuite all'evento e lo slide show che le mostra


Nuovo italia (1)Mando questo pane anche all'edizione di Giugno di Panissimo un evento mensile creato da Barbara di Bread & Companatico e Sandra di Indovina chi viene a cena?


Nowy2E anche alla raccolta mensile Sourdough and Yeast di Wisla (in polacco).

 

 

 

recipe: carrot sourdough bread


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skorpor: crostini svedesi / Swedish rusks

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2368

crisp skorpor up for grabs
on Double Creek Pottery plate on La FABBRICA del LINO placemat

In the kitchen of the house in upstate New York where I spent a few days at a retreat last September, there was a bookshelf of cookbooks. My right hand pulled out Favorite Swedish Recipes by Emmie Berg and while I paged through it, the recipe for Round Rusks (Brutna skorpor) locked my attention.

Skorpor are popular Swedish rusks and a rusk is a light, dry biscuit or a piece of twice-baked bread. There is a version of rusk in many other traditions: for example, in Italy we have fette biscottate (twice-baked slices of bread). According to the wikipedia article on rusk, skorpor can be flavoured with herbs, dried fruit, nuts, or spices such as anise or cardamom.

The cookbook mentioned includes also a recipe for Rye Rusks. To make my version of Round Rusks I borrowed a bit from both recipes, added ingredients according to my taste and adapted the instructions to my bread-making habits. I used a small amount of sunflower honey as sweetener, and cardamom and orange zest to give the skorpor a nice nuanced flavor.


FTC disclosure: I have received the placemat free of charge from the manufacturer. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


IMG_2359 /  skorpor Swedish rye rusks

dividing the dough and rolling skorpor

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for skorpor (Swedish rusks)

Ingredients:

  • 50 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
  • 60 g dark rye flour
  • 150 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I use to make bread)
  • 1 teaspoon / 3.2 g instant yeast
  • 150 ml milk + 40 ml water at 80 F / 27 C (I used non-fat milk)
  • 20 g fluid honey (I use sunflower honey, miele di girasole)
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon orange zest

How to prepare the dough
Measure all the ingredients and place them in a bowl. Mix with a a wooden spoon or a dough whisk until a shaggy dough forms. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes, then mix some more, until a firm dough forms. 

Oil well a glass bowl or similar container where the dough will rise.

Lightly oil your working surface and transfer the dough onto it. Knead lightly for 10 seconds. Transfer the dough to the oiled bowl. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. Cover the bowl and place it in a warm place until the dough has doubled in volume (two hours or so, depending on the temperature).

How to shape round rusks
Line a baking sheet (half sheet size) with a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment paper.

Lightly flour a portion of your working surface and let the dough fall on it. With the help of a scale, divide the dough into 20 small pieces of 22-24 g each (depending on how many pieces you cut of the smaller size, you may get enough dough for 21 pieces).

Lightly flatten each piece of dough, letter-fold it, flip it and then roll it into a tight ball. Roll while tucking the dough under it, until the surface acquires a good tension without tearing. The working surface should be clear of flour, otherwise the roll slides on it, while you need some friction to create the tension on the dough's surface. [This short video shows my hands rolling a larger piece of dough, but should still give an idea.]

Place on the silicone backing mat or parchment paper in four rows of five, evenly spaced (adjust some to make space for the 21st, if you have it). Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists (an hour or so, depending on the temperature).

skorpor Swedish rye rusks proofing / IMG_2361

proofed and ready for the oven (placemat from La FABBRICA del LINO)

How to bake and crisp rusks
30-45 minutes after the beginning of the second rise (depending on how quick your oven heats up), preheat the oven to 425 F / 218 C.

When the dough is ready, put the baking sheet in the oven and bake skorpor until light brown (8-10 minutes). Take the baking sheet out of the oven and transfer the skorpor on a cooling rack or towel. Let cool completely, then break in half each skorpor with a fork (forchetta).

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2362

splitting skorpor with a fork before putting them back in the oven

With a salad fork, I make a row of holes all around, then pry the skorpor open delicately.

Distribute the 40-42 pieces on the baking sheet and place in a 200 F / 93 C oven for 1-2 hours until they are crisp. Check them after 1 hour; in my oven, it takes 1 1/2 hours. Turn off the oven and leave the door ajar. Let the skorpor dry for up to another hour. Again, check them half-way through to prevent them from getting too dry.

Make sure you have some nice spread or creamy cheese to taste fresh skorpor. Store surviviors in an airtight container.

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2369

Crunchy, with the earthy flavor of rye (segale) and a hint of orange and cardamom, it is clear from the first bite why these morsels are popular. They have been an instant hit in our household and besides being good, they are fun to make (signed: skorpor's serial baker).


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending my skorpor to the January edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Sandra.


Nowy2… to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish).


and to Yeastspotting


New bww logoThe parting shot goes to edition #154 of Black and White Wednesday – A Culinary Photography Event created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook, now organized by Cinzia of Cindystar, and hosted this week by Lynne of Cafe Lynnylu.

The photo was shot in color with my iPhone and then converted to sepia (Lightroom preset Sepia Tone).

The gallery of images contributed to the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

crostini svedesi

or launch the crostini svedesi audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

rusks, breadrye flourSwedish cuisine

 

focaccia alla zucca con formaggio / pumpkin and cheese focaccia

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

Pumpkin focaccia
homemade focaccia and cheese on Hawaiian board on Italian linen
(from La FABBRICA del LINO)

In the fall, I hoard pumpkins and winter squashes: they keep well and are a source of nourishment and inspiration for months. One specimen, once roasted, yielded enough pulp for several dampers (Australian bread) and focacce (Italian plural of focaccia).

I got the general idea from this recipe, then mostly followed my taste and my recent recipe for pear and rosemary focaccia

The pumpkin (zucca) gives the focaccia a nice golden color, the cheese offsets the pumpkin's sweetness and thyme (timo) or sage (salvia) gives it an aromatic touch. In the photos, the cut focaccia rests on table runner and place mat by la FABBRICA del LINO (A'jour collection), which I love because of their natural look, soft feel and simple elegance. Plus, they need no ironing.


FTC disclosure: I have received the linens free of charge from the manufacturer. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting them on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Pumpkin and cheese focaccia

Ingredients:

  1. 115 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  2. 2.4 g / 3/4 teaspoon instant yeast
  3. 65 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I use to make bread) 
  4. 50 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour (I use locally grown and milled Hollis wheat)
  5. 110 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour 
  6. 4 1/2 ounces / 130 g roasted pumpkin or winter squash (see instructions below) at room temperature + 2 teaspoons / 10 ml additional water, if needed (see below) 
  7. 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  8. 5 g fine sea salt
  9. 1 ounce / 30 freshly grated hard cheese of choice (a hint of sharpness works nicely here)
  10. 1/2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 2-3 leaves fresh sage, slivered
  11. Extra-virgin olive oil in a mister (to oil the bowl and the dough)

How to prepare the pumpkin / winter squash
Different types of pumpkin / winter squash have different water content. If the specimen you choose is quite watery, drain it before using it. On the other hand, if it is dense, you'll need to increase the amount of water (see later). 

Preheat the oven to 375 F. If the pumpkin is hard, pre-process it as follows: pierce it with a blade in a few places, place it on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat, and bake it for 15 minutes, then let is cool slightly. This makes it easier to cut it in half.

Cut the pumpkin (pre-processed or raw) in half lengthwise and remove the seeds (a grapefruit spoon is my preferred tool for this task). Place halves on the silicone baking mat, cut side down. Put in the oven and bake until tender, easily pierced with a blade. Let cool, drain any water, then scrape the flesh off the skin, again using a grapefruit spoon, and place in a bowl or suitable container.

Let the pumpkin pulp cool completely and weigh the amount required by the recipe: avoid watery pulp by spooning it from the surface. If there is no liquid in the bottom of the container, it means the pumpkin or squash is more on the dry side, so add 1-2 teaspoons of water to the pulp. Mash well with a fork and set aside to use for the focaccia. Use leftovers to make this soupthese scones or this bread.

How to prepare the dough
In a bowl, measure the water. Add the yeast and stir well, then add the first amount of flour (#3 in the list) and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk
. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes in a draft-free place.

In the meantime, weigh the other two amounts of flour (#4 and 5 in the list). Also, add olive oil, salt, cheese and the herb of choice to the mashed pumpkin and stir well.

Add the flours to the yeasted mixture and stir briefly, then add the pumpkin mixture and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 10 minutes. In the meantime, oil well the bowl in which the dough will rise. A glass bowl makes it easy to manipulate the dough.

Transfer the dough to the prepared oiled bowl. This is a fairly sticky dough, hence I recommend you wet your hands before handling it. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on the SF Baking Institute website describes and shows stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development. The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch Mac show how to stretch and fold.

  • A) Stretch and fold the focaccia dough in the bowl along both sides (length and width).
  • B) Cover and let rest for 45 minutes.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours and your dough should be ready for shaping. 

How to shape the focaccia
Lightly oil a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment paper resting on a baking sheet. Flip the bowl onto the mat and let the dough drop. Cover it with another baking sheet or oiled plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes.

Push the dough out gently with your fingertips to spread it into a roughly square shape, about 8 inches / 20 cm wide, of even thickness. Cover it as before and let it rest for 10 minutes. 

Push the dough gently with your fingertips to spread it a little bit more, until it is about 9 inches / 23 cm wide, then mist the surface lightly with olive oil. Cover as before and let rise for 20-30 minutes while you prepare the oven.

Prepare the oven
Place a baking stone or tile in the cold oven and preheat the oven to 425 F / 220 C.

Bake the focaccia
Lightly mist the dough with olive oil one last time. Transfer the baking mat or parchment paper with the dough onto the hot stone or tile.

Bake for 15 minutes then check. The focaccia is ready when golden on the bottom and surface. Bake a few minutes longer, as needed.

Carefully slide the baking mat or parchment paper with the focaccia onto a baking sheet and then transfer the focaccia to a wire rack to cool slightly. Transfer to a wooden cutting board, slice and enjoy warm or at room temperature.

IMG_2273 / pumpkin focaccia

the focaccia is served (linen table runner and placemat from
la FABBRICA del LINO)

It's a good thing I have a stash of pumpkins and winter squashes, because I will make this focaccia a lot in the coming months. It's great with salumi (charcuterie) and with cheese. I particularly like eating it warm and stuffed with some of my crescenza (top photo), but it is also great with my roasted red pepper and almond dip


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending my focaccia to the November edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Sandra.


Nowy2And to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish). The roundup of the event.


Finally, to Yeastspotting. This page contains part 3 of the roundup and a link to each of the other 2 parts.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

focaccia alla zucca con formaggio

or launch the focaccia alla zucca con formaggio audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

focacciapumpkincheese

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Newrule

focaccia alla zucca con formaggio

Pumpkin focaccia
focaccia e formaggio fatti in casa su tagliere Hawaiano su lino Italiano
(de La FABBRICA del LINO)

In autunno accumulo zucche: si mantengono bene e sono una fonte di nutrimento e ispirazione per mesi. Una zucca, dopo che l'ho cotta in forno, mi ha dato abbastanza polpa per fare diversi dampers (pane Australiano) e focacce.

L'idea generale l'ho tratta da questa ricetta, poi ho seguito il mio gusto personale e la mia ricetta per focaccia alle pere e rosmarino

La zucca dona alla focaccia un bel colore dorato, il formaggio equilibra la dolcezza della zucca thyme e timo o salvia contribuiscono una nota aromatica. Nelle foto, la focaccia è presentata su tovaglietta e runner di la FABBRICA del LINO (collezione A'jour), che adoro per il suo look naturale, la morbiezza e l'eleganza semplice. Inoltre, non necessita di stiratura.


FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto tovaglietta e runner gratuitamente dall'azienda produttrice. Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.


Ingredienti:

  1. 115 ml acqua a 30 C
  2. 2,4 g lievito di birra secco istantaneo
  3. 65 g farina per focacce
  4. 50 g farina integrale
  5. 110 g farina per focacce
  6. 130 g zucca cotta al forno a temperatura ambiente + 10 ml acqua, al bisogno (vedi sotto)
  7. 15 ml olio extra-vergine d'oliva
  8. 5 g sale fino
  9. formaggio a scelta grattugiato fresco (un po' piccantino ci sta bene)
  10. 1/2 cucchiaio foglioline di timo fresco oppure 2-3 foglie di salvia tagliuzzate fini
  11. olio extra-vergine d'oliva in uno spruzzino per oliare

Preparare la zucca
Diverse varietà di zucca hanno diverso contenuto di acqua. Se la zucca che usate è ricca di acqua, lasciatela drenare un po' prima di utilizzarla. D'altra parte, se è bella densa, dovrete aggiungere un po' d'acqua all'impasto (vedi più avanti).

Scaldare il forno a 190 C. Foderare una placca da forno con un tappetino di silicone per il forno.

Per evitare di far saltare la lama al coltello nel tentativo di tagliare a metà una zucca, bucarla in alcuni punti con una lama appuntita e metterla  in forno sulla placca preparata per 15 minuti. Quando si è intiepidita abbastanza da poterla toccare, procedere come descritto nel paragrafo successivo.

Se utilizzate una zucca che si taglia facilmente, saltate il passaggio descritto nel paragrafo precedente. Tagliare la zucca a metà e usare un cucchiaino da pompelmo per rimuovere i semi.

Metterla in forno, sulla placca preparata, con la parte tagliata in basso e cuocerla finché non è morbida. Toglierla dal forno e, quando è tiepida, usare il cucchiaino da pompelmo per rimuovere la polpa. Metterla in un contenitore adatto.

Far raffreddare la zucca e pesare la quantità di richiesta dalla ricetta evitando di utilizzare polpa molto bagnata. Se non c'è alcun liquido sul fondo del contenitore vuol dire che la zucca è soda, quindi aggiungere alla zucca pesata 10 ml di acqua. Schiacciarla bene con una forchetta e metterla da parte. Con la zucca che avanza potete preparare questa zuppa, questi scone o questo pane.

Preparare l'impasto
Stemperare il lievito nell'acqua e poi aggiungere la prima quantità di farina (65 g). Mescolare bene, coprire e lasciar lievitare per mezz'ora in un luogo riparato.

Nel frattempo, pesare le altre due quantità di farina (numero 4 e 5 nella lista degli ingredienti). Aggiungere olio d'oliva, sale, formaggio e erba aromatica scelta alla zucca preparata in precedenza e mescolare bene.

Aggiungere le farine alla pasta con lievito e mescolare bene, poi aggiungere gli altri ingredienti e mescolare fino a che si formi un impasto grossolano. Coprire e lasciar riposare per 10 minuti.

Nel frattempo, oliare bene una ciotola (per la lievitazione). Trasferirci l'impasto, che sarà piuttosto bagnato, quindi suggerisco di bagnarsi le mani prima di manipolarlo. Fare una piega a lettera, cioè tirare leggermente l'impasto da un lato e piegarlo verso il lato opposto. Ripetere dall'altra parte, come se piegaste un foglio di carta in terzi per metterlo in una busta. Voltare l'impasto piegato sottosopra per oliarne la superficie. Questo è il tempo 0. Coprire la ciotola e far lievitare per 45 minuti in un luogo riparato.

Questo video sul sito web del SF Baking Institute descrive e fa vedere la tiratura come tirare e piegare a lettera l'impasto durante la lievitazione (quando si piega l'impasto la prima volta il glutine non è ancora sviluppato, quindi si tira solo leggermente). come dice Mac says nel video, la tiratura è importante nello sviluppo del glutine. Il video non è lungo, ma se non avete tempo di guardarlo tutto, cominciate a 4':30: e osservate Mac che tira e piega l'impasto.

  • A) Tirare e piegare l'impasto da tutti e due i lati (cioè prima per lungo e poi ripetere per largo).
  • B) Coprire l'impasto e lasciarlo riposare 45 minutes.

Ripetere A e B altre due volte. A questo punto sarete al tempo 3 ore e l'impasto dovrebbe essere pronto.

Formare la focaccia
Coprire una lastra da forno con un tappetino da forno di silicone oppure un pezzo di carta da forno e oliare leggermente la superficie. Voltare sottosopra la ciotola per far cadere l'impasto sul supporto oliato. Coprire con della pellicola oliata e far riposare per 10 minuti.

Con la punta delle dita, spingere delicatamente l'impasto in modo da fargli assumere una forma quadrata (20 cm di diametro). Coprire come prima e far riposare per 10 minuti.

Con la punta delle dita, spingere delicatamente l'impasto fino a raggiungere 23 cm di diametro. Spruzzare un pochino di olio sulla superficie della focaccia. Coprire come prima e far riposare per 20-30 minuti mentre preparate il forno. 

Preparare il forno
Mettere nel forno freddo la piastra da pizza e scaldare a 220 C.

Cuocere la focacciao
Spruzzare un pochino di olio sulla superficie della focaccia e trasferirla nel forno insieme al tappetino o carta da forno su cui poggia.

Cuocere  fino a quando la focaccia sia bella dorata sopra e sotto: controllare dopo 15 minuti e cuocere quanto più a lungo sia necessario.

Estrarre con cautela la focaccia e metterla su una gratella per farla intiepidire. Trasferire su un tagliere, tagliarla e gustarla calda o a temperatura ambiente.

IMG_2273 / pumpkin focaccia

la focaccia è servita (runner di lino e tovaglietta de
la FABBRICA del LINO)

Sono contenta di avere una buona riserva di zucche poiché questa focaccia la farò e rifarò nei prossimi mesi. È buona da sola, con salumi e formaggio, farcita con la mia crescenza fatta in casa (foto in alto) o con la mia crema di peperoni arrosto e mandorle.


Nuovo italia (1)Mando questa focaccia all'edizione di Novembre di Panissimo un evento mensile creato da Barbara di Bread & Companatico e Sandra di Indovina chi viene a cena? e ospitato questo mese da Sandra.

 


Nowy2E anche:

– alla raccolta mensile Sourdough and Yeast di Wisla (in polacco). La raccolta dell'evento.

– a Yeastspotting. Questa pagina contiene la terza parte della raccolta e i link alle altre due parti. 

 

focaccia alle pere e rosmarino / pear and rosemary focaccia

DSC_6185 / pear and rosemary focaccia

putting the new pear crop to good use

Last June, I realized a wish I had held in my heart for many years: I learned to row (remare).

Upon hearing of my new activity, one of my neighbors lent me The Boys in the Boat by Daniel James Brown. She thought I would enjoy the book and she was right.

It tells the true story of "nine Americans and their epic quest for gold at the 1936 Olympic Games." The book trailer gives you an idea of the main story. The book sets that story within its historical context (the Great Depression, the Dust Bowl, Nazism in Germany) and also within the context of rowing as a sport.

The main character of the story is Joe Rantz. Orphaned at 4, abandoned by his father and second wife at 15, through hard work and sheer determination, Joe managed to attend the University of Washington and there he joined the rowing team.

Rowing is a physically demanding sport. Without a family and with extremely limited means, Joe Rantz was always hungry. After I practice, and I do so nowhere near the intensity level of Joe and his crew mates, I come home ready for a meal.

The description of Joe's craving for a home to go back to at the end of the day, for the family he remembers from his early years, made me want to prepare something for him, something flavorful, filling and nutritious, like focaccia.

After testing various recipes and various flours, the following is my current favorite. The topping is dictated by the season. Earlier, I made mostly cherry tomato focaccia. Once pears started to appear in my CSA box, I gave them a try and liked the result.

IMG_1962

rosemary from my herb garden

One inspiration for this focaccia was the recipe in How to Make Bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou. What I got from the recipe is the amount of flour, yeast and salt and some elements of the basic procedure, which is similar to other recipes that use same-day fermentation. I added my taste, my experience and things I learned at the San Francisco Baking Institute.

DSC_6180
Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Pear and rosemary focaccia

Ingredients for the focaccia dough:

  • 100 g / 3 1/2 oz. Ultra-Grain all-purpose flour (see Note below)
  • 85 g / 3 oz. King Arthur Flour Italian-style flour (see Note below)
  • 15 g / 1/2 oz. stone-ground whole-wheat flour (I use locally grown and milled Hollis wheat)
  • 160 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  • 0.8 g / 1/4 teaspoon  instant yeast 
  • 3/4 teaspoon / 4 g fine sea salt
  • Extra-virgin olive oil in a mister (to oil the bowl and the dough)

Ingredients for the topping:

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary needles
  • 2 pears, possibly organic

Note: Ultra-Grain all-purpose flour is a blend that includes whole-grain flour. I am listing the brands of the flours I use not as a form of advertisement, but because I have made focaccia with other flours and these give me the best result. I have no business relationship with either company.

Prepare the dough
Start early in the morning if you want to bake focaccia for lunch, or in the afternoon if you want to bake it for dinner.

In a small bowl, measure the three flours. In a larger bowl, measure the water. Add the flours to the water and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk until a shaggy dough forms (I purchased the smaller version of this tool and love it: it works nicely and is easy to clean).

Sprinkle yeast on the dough, but do not fold it in. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 15 minutes. In the meantime, oil well the bowl in which the dough will rise. A wide glass bowl makes it easy to manipulate the dough.

Wet the spoon (if using it) and stir dough to fold in the yeast. Add the salt and stir some more until it is well incorporated. Transfer the dough to the prepared oiled bowl. This is a fairly sticky dough, hence I recommend you wet your hands before handling it. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on the SF Baking Institute website describes and shows stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development. The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch Mac show how to stretch and fold.

  • A) Stretch and fold the focaccia dough in the bowl along both sides (length and width).
  • B) Cover and let rest for 1 hour.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours and 45 minutes and your dough should show bubbles on the surface.

Bake the pears
Some time while the dough is rising, preheat oven to 350 F / 177 C.

Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or a piece of parchment paper. Wash, quarter and core the pears. Place them on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes.

Take the pears out of the oven and let cool. Set aside until ready to use.

Shape the focaccia
Lightly oil a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment paper resting on a baking sheet. Flip the bowl onto the mat and let the dough drop. Cover it with another baking sheet or oiled plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes.

Push the dough out gently with your fingertips to spread it into a roughly square shape, about 9 inches / 23 cm wide. Cover it as before and let it rest for 10 minutes.

In the meantime, chop the rosemary and cut the pear quarters into 1/4 inch / 6 mm thick slices. You will not need both pears: you can add leftovers to a salad, a frittata or stuffing for an acorn squash (just to mention a few options).

Dimple the dough gently with your fingertips to spread it a little bit more, then mist the surface with olive oil. Sprinkle the rosemary evenly on the dough, then distribute the pear slices so they dot the focaccia, but don't blanket it.

Cover as before and let rise for 20-30 minutes while you prepare the oven.

Prepare the oven
Place a baking stone or tile in the cold oven and preheat the oven to 475 F / 245 C.

Bake the focaccia
Mist the dough with olive oil one last time. Transfer the baking mat or parchment paper with the dough onto the hot stone or tile.

Bake for 15 minutes then check. The focaccia is ready when golden on the bottom and surface. Bake a few minutes longer, as needed.

Carefully slide the baking mat or parchment paper with the focaccia onto a baking sheet and then transfer the focaccia to a wire rack to cool slightly. Transfer to a wooden cutting board, slice and enjoy.

IMG_1970 / focaccia with pears and rosemary

with the last of my sunflowers

This focaccia is both rustic and refined (rustica e raffinata), pleasantly chewy and delicately oily. Pears and rosemary go well together and the soft fruit, somewhat sweet, clamors for some cheese to go with it.

I think Joe could have eaten a whole focaccia after rowing practice.


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 22nd edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the September edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Sandra.


Nowy2And to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish).  The roundup of the event.


Finally, to Yeastspotting. This page has one portion of the roundup and links to the other two portions.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

focaccia alle pere e rosmarino

or launch the focaccia alle pere e rosmarino audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

focacciapearrosemary

pane al lievito naturale con chicchi di mais arrosto / roasted corn sourdough bread

DSC_6022 / roasted corn sourdough bread

simple, flavorful fare

If you drive by a farm stand called The Corn Crib, you must stop and buy four ears of freshly harvested corn, right?

And if a couple of hours later you open your CSA box and find another four ears of freshly harvested corn nestled between heirloom tomatoes and peaches, you grin at the unexpected surprise, right?

What would you do with the bounty that magically materialized in your hands? I cannot answer for you, but as soon as I got home, I turned on the oven and roasted the corn in two batches. I made Corn salad with cherry tomatoes, avocado and lemon cucumber for dinner and while savoring its fresh, juicy flavors, I started thinking about other ways to use the abundancy of roasted corn kernels.

oven-roasted corn

can you smell the sweetness?

I realized that corn kernels (chicchi di mais) are used in bread only in the context of cornbread. I do that too, in my recipe for Cornbread with roasted corn kernels. What about corn kernels in wheat bread?

I immediately did a trial run using a simple yeasted bread recipe. The result was encouraging, so I kept experimenting. I like a lto the Walnut raisin sourdough bread I presented recently, so I used that winning recipe as the basis. Let me introduce you to my roasted corn sourdough bread:

Roasted corn sourdough bread in the Dutch oven

beauty in the pan

Important: this bread uses a starter that requires a bit of advanced planning. The corn must also be roasted ahead.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Roasted corn sourdough bread

Ingredients:

For the preferment

  • 30 g sourdough starter (refreshed previously, if stored in the refrigerator)
  • 60 g water
  • 60 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I always use to make bread) 

For the corn kernels

  • 2 nice, fresh ears of corn (pannocchie di granturco1), still wrapped in their husks (if they aren't, wrap them in foil before roasting them) and with their silks attached (see important Note below)

For the dough

  • 140 g preferment (sourdough starter) prepared in advance with the ingredients listed above
  • 260 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 teaspoon  instant yeast 
  • 50 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour (I use locally grown and milled Hollis wheat)
  • 25 g stone-ground cornmeal (I use locally grown and milled corn)
  • 300 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour, plus as needed to shape the bread
  • 200 g roasted corn kernels
  • 1/4 cup / 60 ml basil chiffonade
  • 6 g fine sea salt

Prepare the preferment
12-16 hours before starting to make the bread, prepare the preferment: weigh the ingredients in a 2-cup container, stir well with a fork, cover and let ferment at room temperature in a draft-free place. (Adjust the timing as needed for your starter and your room temperature so that by the time you start making bread the preferment is bubbly active.)

Prepare the roasted corn
Note: even roasting 2 ears of corn, you will have some leftover kernels, but for efficiency's sake, I suggest you roast 3 or 4 ears of corn. Roasted corn kernels can be used in a number of other recipes, like:

Preheat oven to 450 F / 250 C. Place corn on a baking sheet leaving some room around each ear. Roast corn in the oven for 20 minutes. Let cool briefly, then remove the husks. Working on a shallow bowl or pyrex dish, use a knife to separate kernels and scrapings from the cob. (Save the empty cobs to make stock or broth.)

Make sure the corn is at room temperature by the time you are ready to start making the bread. With the help of a fork, separate the kernels, so they distribute evenly in the dough.

Prepare the dough
I start making the bread early in the morning, so I am sure the boule will be baked and thoroughly cooled by dinner time.

In a bowl, mix preferment (sourdough starter), water and instant yeast. The small amount of yeast I use helps keep the leavening process within a predictable time frame in the cool environment of our house. 

Add the flours and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk.

Add corn and basil and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Sprinkle salt on the surface.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rest 5 minutes. In the meantime, oil well a plastic tub with lid where you will transfer the dough when fully mixed.

Wet the spoon (if using it) and mix dough until it is homogeneous.

Transfer the dough to the oiled tub. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the tub and let rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on The SF Baking Institute website describes and shows a couple of important techniques I apply to bread dough.

  1. Stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development
  2. Pre-shaping and shaping rounds (useful for later)

The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch about 8 minutes until Mac shows how to shape a boule.

  • A) Stretch and fold the dough in the tub along both sides.
  • B) Cover and let rest for 45 minutes.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours.

Check gluten development by stretching a corner of the dough to make a windowpane. If you don't get a windowpane, let dough ferment a little longer. 

Shape the bread
Lightly flour your working surface and transfer dough onto it. Use a bench scraper to help you move and turn the dough.

Gently pat the dough to flatten it into a thick circle and degas. Fold corners of dough towards the center, flip (so it is seam side down) and pre-shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 8'). Move the round towards you, then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring a bit of tension to the dough, but not as much as you will later, during shaping.

Let pre-shaped round rest for 20 minutes, covered (I leave it on the kneading board and cover it with the plastic tub turned upside down).

In the meantime, generously flour a lined round bread basket or similar container (my brotform is unlined, so I have a square piece of cloth that I flour and use to line it). Flip the dough (so it is seam side up) and flatten lightly, then fold corners of dough towards the center. Flip (so it is seam side down) and shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 12'). Move the round towards you then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring tension to the dough, but do not overdo or the surface will tear.

Gently flip the dough and place it seam side up into the prepared basket. Cover (I use a clean shower cap for this) and let the dough rest until doubled in size (also, until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists), in my case 3 to 4 hours, depending on the room temperature. 

DSC_6021 / roasted corn sourdough bread

ready for the oven

Prepare the oven
Place a lidded 5-Qt cast-iron Dutch oven. in the cold oven and preheat the oven to 475 F /245 C. (You can bake the bread on tiles and use your preferred method for creating steam in the oven.)

Bake the bread
When the dough is ready to be baked, cut a piece of parchment paper large enough so that you can take hold of it by the corners and use them to help you lower the dough into the Dutch oven and later to retrieve the bread from it. Lay the parchment paper onto the back of a baking sheet. Flip the dough onto the parchment paper, lift basket and peel away liner.

Score the surface according to your preference. I got the star-shaped scoring you see in the photo from the recipe for White sourdough in How to Make Bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou: With scissors, cut the points of the star all around the top of the boule. 

Take the Dutch oven out of the oven and remove the lid. Pick up the parchment paper and lower the shaped dough into the Dutch oven. Put the lid on and place the Dutch oven back into the oven. Turn the oven temperature down to 425 F / 218 C.

Bake for 15 minutes,  then remove the lid and bake for an additional 15 minutes. At this point, check the bread's internal temperature: if it is 210 F / 99 C, it is ready. Otherwise, continue baking for another 2 minutes, then check again. In my case, it takes 32 minutes for the bread to bake.

Carefully extract the bread out of the Dutch oven using the parchment paper flaps to lift it up. Place on a rack to cool. Restrain your desire to go at the bread with your knife: let it cool completely, at least two hours, then slice and feast on it with all your senses. 

Roasted Corn sourdough bread
Almost ready to be sliced

This is a lovely summer bread, with a gentle corn flavor. The roasted kernels look like golden pearls and act as little surprises when savoring a morsel.

You can enjoy this bread by itself or with a bowl of soup, cheese, salumi (charcuterie) and other dishes.

1 Both mais and granturco mean corn in Italian.


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the August edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Sandra.


Nowy2And to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish). The roundup of the event.


Finally, to Yeastspotting. This page has one portion of the roundup and links to the other two portions.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

pane al lievito naturale con chicchi di mais arrosto

or launch the pane al lievito naturale con chicchi di mais arrosto audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

breadhomemade breadsourdoughcorn

 

recipe: roasted corn sourdough bread (pane al lievito naturale con chicchi di mais arrosto)


Print Friendly and PDF
 

pane al lievito naturale con uvetta e noci / walnut raisin sourdough bread

IMG_1664 / walnut raisin sourdough bread

a feast for the senses

The seeds sprouting tomorrow are sown today.

This is true for the bread baker as well, when the bread planned includes a preferment, like sourdough starter (lievito naturale or pasta madre), for which a bit of advanced planning is needed.

I enjoy baking a variety of breads, yet if I were to choose one bread to carry with me on a deserted island, this walnut raisin sourdough boule would be the one: it has a crisp crust and soft crumb (crosta croccante e mollica soffice), a nuanced sour note, a sweet note thanks to raisins and a crunchy note thanks to walnuts. It carries centuries of tradition yet looks and tastes modern, it is simple yet provides a complex eating experience. It is the epitome of nourishing.

It does take a bit of advanced planning, but wouldn't you want to take out of the oven something as beautiful as the boule in the photo?

walnut raisin sourdough bread

just baked

One inspiration for this bread was a recipe for Hazelnut and Currant Sourdough in How to Make Bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou, which includes interesting recipes and a relaxed approach to baking bread hat resonates with me. Much as I like hazelnuts (nocciole), I found their flavor overpowering in bread, hence my preference for walnuts. What I got from the recipe is the amount of flour, sourdough starter and salt. Everything else comes from my taste, my experience and things I learned at the San Francisco Baking Institute

Important: this bread uses a starter that requires some advanced planning. The raisins should also soak overnight.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Walnut raisin sourdough bread

Ingredients:

For the preferment

  • 30 g sourdough starter (refreshed previously, if stored in the refrigerator)
  • 60 g water
  • 60 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I always use to make bread) 

For the raisins

  • 60 g raisins
  • 125 ml lukewarm water or tea

For the dough

  • 60 g walnuts (see below)
  • 140 g preferment (sourdough starter) prepared in advance with the ingredients listed above
  • 260 ml water at 85 F / 30 C
  • 0.4 g / 1/8 teaspoon  instant yeast 
  • 40 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour (I use locally grown and milled Hollis wheat)
  • 35 g sprouted whole-wheat flour (the one I use is also from KAF)
  • 300 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour, plus as needed to shape the bread
  • 6 g fine sea salt

Prepare the preferment and the raisins
12-16 hours before starting to make the bread, prepare the preferment: weigh the ingredients in a 2-cup container, stir well with a fork, cover and let ferment at room temperature in a draft-free place. (Adjust the timing as needed for your starter and your room temperature so that by the time you start making bread the preferment is bubbly active.)

Place raisins in a small bowl and pour over them the liquid of choice. Cover the bowl and let rest overnight, until the raisins are needed.

Prepare the walnuts
If your walnuts are freshly cracked, toast them lightly in a dry pan, shaking the pan often.

Otherwise, in her “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone”, Deborah Madison gives instructions on how to treat walnuts to improve their flavor when they aren't freshly cracked, and make them less irritating for people who are sensitive to their skins. Bring a pan of water to a boil, add walnuts and let them stand for one minute, then drain them and absorb the excess moisture with a towel. Finally, spread the walnuts on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat and place them in the oven preheated to 300 F / 150 C until they have dried out, 15-20 minutes. Remove them from the oven as soon as they are dry. (I do this for 6-8 oz. / 170-225 g walnuts at a time, since I use walnuts often in my recipes. Store walnuts in the refrigerator.)

Prepare the dough
I start making the bread early in the morning, so I am sure the boule will be baked and thoroughly cooled by dinner time.

Chop prepared walnuts with a knife. Drain the raisins. 

In a bowl, mix preferment (sourdough starter), water and instant yeast. The small amount of yeast I use helps keep the leavening process within a predictable time frame in the cool environment of our house. 

Add the flours and stir with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk.

Add walnuts and raisins and stir until a shaggy dough forms. Sprinkle salt on the surface.

Cover the bowl and let the dough rest 5 minutes. In the meantime, oil well a plastic tub with lid where you will transfer the dough when fully mixed.

Wet the spoon (if using it) and mix dough until it is homogeneous.

Transfer the dough to the oiled tub. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. This is your time 0. Cover the tub and let rest for 45 minutes.

This very nice video on The SF Baking Institute website describes and shows a couple of important techniques I apply to bread dough.

  1. Stretching and folding: as Mac says in the video, the stretching part is of fundamental importance in gluten development
  2. Pre-shaping and shaping rounds (useful for later)

The video is not long, but if you don't have time to watch it in its entirety, you can start at 4':30" and watch about 8 minutes until Mac shows how to shape a boule.

  • A) Stretch and fold the dough in the tub along both sides.
  • B) Cover and let rest for 45 minutes.

Repeat A and B two more times, at which point you will be at time 3 hours.

Check gluten development by stretching a corner of the dough to make a windowpane. If you don't get a windowpane, let dough ferment a little longer. 

Shape the bread
Lightly flour your working surface and transfer dough onto it. Use a bench scraper to help you move and turn the dough.

Gently pat dough to flatten it into a thick circle and degas. Fold corners of dough towards the center, flip (so it is seam side down) and pre-shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 8'). Move the round towards you, then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring a bit of tension to the dough, but not as much as you will later, during shaping.

Let pre-shaped round rest for 20 minutes, covered (I leave it on the kneading board and cover it with the plastic tub turned upside down).

In the meantime, generously flour a lined round bread basket or similar container (my brotform is unlined, so I have a square piece of cloth that I flour and use to line it). Flip the dough (so it is seam side up) and flatten lightly, then fold corners of dough towards the center. Flip (so it is seam side down) and shape into a boule on an unfloured section of your working surface, which offers some resistance (see video at 12'). Move the round towards you then back with a slight rotation, all the while tucking dough underneath. Bring tension to the dough, but do not overdo or the surface will tear.

Gently flip the dough and place it seam side up into the prepared basket. Cover (I use a clean shower cap for this) and let dough rest until doubled in size (also, until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists), in my case 3 to 4 hours, depending on the room temperature.  

Prepare the oven
You can bake this bread on tiles and use your preferred method for creating steam in the oven, or you can use a lidded 5-Qt cast-iron Dutch oven. I have used both methods with success and will describe the latter method here, which is easier and works well.

Place the lidded cast-iron Dutch oven in the cold oven. Preheat the oven to 475 F /245 C. 

DSC_4979 / walnut raisin sourdough bread

star-shaped scoring using scissors

Bake the bread
When the dough is ready to be baked, cut a piece of parchment paper large enough so that you can take hold of it by the corners and use them to help you lower the dough into the Dutch oven and later to retrieve the bread from it. Lay the parchment paper onto the back of a baking sheet. Flip the dough onto the parchment paper, lift basket and peel away liner.

Score the surface according to your preference. I got the star-shaped scoring you see in the photo from the recipe for White sourdough in How to Make Bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou: With scissors, cut the points of the star all around the top of the boule. 

Take the Dutch oven out of the oven and remove the lid. Pick up the parchment paper and lower the shaped dough into the Dutch oven. Put the lid on and place the Dutch oven back into the oven. Turn the oven temperature down to 425 F / 218 C.

Bake for 15 minutes,  then remove the lid and bake for an additional 15 minutes. At this point, check the bread's internal temperature: if it is 210 F / 99 C, it is ready. Otherwise, continue baking for another 2 minutes, then check again. In my case, it takes 32 minutes for the bread to bake.

Carefully extract the bread out of the Dutch oven using the parchment paper flaps to lift it up. Place on a rack to cool. Restrain your desire to go at the bread with your knife: let it cool completely, at least two hours, then slice and feast on it with all your senses. 

DSC_4986 / walnut raisin sourdough bread

baked on tiles

This bread is simply magnificent. The balance of ingredients is perfect, in my opinion.

Resist the temptation to add more raisins or more walnuts: you want to taste bread first and foremost. The additions have a supportive role and should not steal the show. 

You can serve this bread with anything: a bowl of soup will love it, cheese will be thrilled to be paired with it, salame, prosciutto or bresaola will be its best friends. It is perfect to fare la scarpetta and above all, it enchants when tasted solo.


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the June edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Valentina of Non di solo pane.

 


Nowy2And to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish). The roundup of the event.


Finally, to YeastspottingThis page contains the first part of the roundup and  links to the other two parts.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

pane al lievito naturale con uvetta e noci

or launch the pane al lievito naturale con uvetta e noci audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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