Crescenza fatta in casa / homemade Crescenza

image from www.flickr.com

savoring the fruit of my labor

Crescenza is a soft, rindless cheese from Lombardia that is great to eat on its own, to savor its fresh, milky flavor, or to use in cooking. A few weeks ago, I read this post, in which Ian, one of the participants in the Cheesepalooza event, described his experience making Crescenza according to Mary Karlin's recipe. I immediately decided to try making it. I found Ms. Karlin's recipe on this page, whereas Ian got it from her book Artisan Cheese Making at Home. [March 22, 2014 update: the page on Culture magazine's website referenced in the last sentence is no longer available, so when I recently made Crescenza again, I followed the recipe on this page, but halved the amount of milk and of the other ingredients and also of the time the cheese is brined. Having in the meantime acquired a 7.5-inch / 19 cm round mold, I make only one cheese. Read the post until the end when I discussed aging, another place where I diverge from the original recipe.]

Here are some images from the process (as you know, I ♥ making cheese):

image from www.flickr.com

early draining phase

I don't have square bottomless molds, so I used two cylindrical bottomless molds.

Advice #1 When a cylindrical bottomless mold has just been filled with curds, it is quite unstable. A minor jiggle may cause it to lift up, in which case the curds will rush out from the bottom: not what you want (trust me). To help prevent the mold from moving, I suggest to put a sterilized piece of cloth under the mold (as shown in this post). You won't see such a cloth in the photo, because this time I forgot to use it.

image from www.flickr.com

late draining phase

It does not take a long time for the mass of curds to lose whey (siero di latte) and become more compact. Once draining is done, the cheese is moved into a brine bath (salamoia).

image from www.flickr.com

in the brine

Advice #2. When moving cheese, for example from the draining box into the brine and then from the brine back into the draining box, never pick it up by pressing your fingers on the side, but always raise it by placing your hands underneath it.

While the cheese was brining, I made ricotta with the leftover whey.

image from www.flickr.com

just out of the brine

In case you are wondering, the texture on the surface is a combination of the imprints of two different draining mats.

After brining, the cheese is air-dried, covered, for an hour before being refrigerated.

image from www.flickr.com

veiled beauties

Overall, the recipe is pretty straightforward and since this is a fresh cheese, you don't have to wait long to taste the fruit of your labor. How long? On this important point, the recipe is not specific. These are the last two sentences:

Wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap or vacuum-seal, and refrigerate until ready to use. Best if used within one week. Bring to room temperature before serving

I wrapped the two cheeses in plastic wrap and refrigerated them, then took one out before dinner and tasted it: the texture was nice, but the flavor bland. I wrapped it again and put it back in the refrigerator. Two days later, I emptied the whey that had collected at the bottom of the container where the cheeses were and prepared it for a second taste: much better. I could start to taste the distinctive delicate tang of Crescenza. The flavor continued to improve in the following 3-4 days, then plateaued. My observation is actually consistent with what I read in a couple of pages (like this one and this one, both in Italian), where the ripening time of crescenza is indicated to be 5-7 days. Hence, the second time I made crescenza, I let it ripen 5 days before tasting it.

In the introdutory note, Ms. Karlin says: "A small amount of rennet is also stirred in, resulting in a slightly firmer cheese than classic Crescenza." This is fine by me. I definitely agree with the last instruction: bring cheese to room temperature before serving it.

My Crescenza was such a success that both times I have made it, it has disappeared quickly (within a few days of first tasting). Crescenza is great on a piece of bread (the one in the top photo is pumpkin bread) and in cooked dishes (for example, instead of robiola in my curried sweet chilli peppers and also in my version of a traditional Italian cheese dish that will be the subject of a post in the near future).

Cheesepalooza-BadgeValerie of A Canadian Foodie has launched a year long event called Cheesepalooza, which encourages people to take up home cheese making via monthly challenges of increasing complexity. Crescenza is one of the optional cheeses chosen for the second month, when the main challenge was making basic chèvre. This post contains the roundup of optional cheeses for month #2.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

Crescenza fatta in casa

or launch the Crescenza fatta in casa audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

crescenza, cheese

una serata alla Scala e mascarpone / an evening at La Scala and mascarpone

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

Welcome to the Teatro alla Scala, the crown jewel of Italian opera theaters.

Teatro alla Scala

the view from our box

Three years ago, we spent a memorable evening in this dazzling place.

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my seat

The small screen displays the subtitles. My husband was able to select the English version of the subtitles.

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bravi!

We watched Gaetano Donizetti’s Le convenienze ed inconvenienze teatrali: it is an opera about staging an opera and is quite amusing.

Teatro alla Scala

the front of the building

Looking at il tempio della lirica (the temple of lyrical opera) always makes me think of Giuseppe Verdi.

In this excerpt from the 1982 TV movie on Verdi’s life, we see the young composer in the upper gallery of La Scala listening to Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore (The Elixir of Love). And in this one, we see him having his first major success with the opera Nabucco. The soprano in the opera was Giuseppina Strepponi, who would become Verdi’s partner and later his (second) wife.

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

Walking from La Scala to Piazza Duomo through the Galleria is nice any time of the day, particularly so at night.

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at the intersection

This is one of the most elegant places in Italy and one I love dearly, as I dearly love Milano, the city where I lived for 10 years before moving to California.

In our tour of the Italian regions with the Abbecedario culinario d’Italia (Italian Culinary ABC), we have reach Lombardia (Lombardy), of which Milan is the capital. There are many beautiful places to visit in Lombardia besides Milan: Pavia, Mantova, Lake Como, Bergamo (home town of Donizetti), Cremona, Valtellina and many, many more.

My first contribution to the Abbecedario for this instalment was a recipe from my archive: polenta taragna, typical of Valtellina. My second contribution is the presentation of a variation on the recipe to make mascarpone, a cheese typical of the region, in particular the area around the city of Lodi. (Coincidentally, Strepponi was born in that city.)

I have already published a recipe for mascarpone. Last week, I decided to try to make cultured mascarpone, following the recipe by Jim Wallace, roughly halving the quantities. The result was very nice.

In this version, the cream and milk blend needs to be warmed up only to 86 F. Then, the culture takes it from there. The blend I used was made up of

  • 1 1/2 cup (355 ml) heavy whipping cream 40% butterfat: this is a higher butterfat content than what I usually use (35%)
  • 1 cup (235 ml) non-fat milk: this is more than I usually use, and I did it to balance out the higher butterfat content of the cream; the blend’s overall butterfat content was 24%

I didn’t have the direct-set crème fraîche culture, but I did have half a package of the direct-set fromagina culture, which includes the same lactic bacteria. Based on the description (“a cross between Fromage Blanc and Mascarpone”), I thought it would be fine to use it. Next time, I will try using crème fraîche culture to taste the difference. Both direct-set cultures contain a small amount of rennet to help form the curd.

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I started the process in the evening, after sanitizing the pan and all the tools needed. I warmed up to 86 F the cream and milk blend to which I had added 5 drops of calcium chloride diluted in 2 tablespoons of cool water. At temperature, I added the culture as described in Jim’s recipe. I left the covered pan undisturbed overnight, wrapped in a towel. The morning after, I found that the blend had set nicely into a very soft curd and was ready for the draining step.

I initially drained the mascarpone using a sterilized cotton napkin, as I usually do, but for some reason the draining was not proceeding well, so I moved the mascarpone onto a double layer of cheese mesh (also sterilized) and that worked well. I stopped the draining when the mascarpone had the desired consistency (see photo above). I collected the whey and froze it for later use to make bread.

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The day the mascarpone was ready to be consumed, we had freshly picked peaches (pesche) from Neukom Family Farm and it seemed obvious to put the two together in a bowl. Nothing else is required: this is a rich and satisfying dessert that you eat slowly and cherish spoon after spoon. 

As this page on Lodi states:

The pride of local produce include cheeses, the most famous being Mascarpone, but also Pennerone, Lodi Granone, cheeses with flavours that these days are becoming hard to find. And the Raspadura, a grana-like fresh cheese traditionally served in thin slices cut with a special knife which makes the cheese curl in on itself.

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the cheese and the special blade to make curls

 It is really fun to watch Raspadura being cut.

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the blade at work

It is difficult to stop eating the sweet smelling curls of cheese once you open the container in which they are packaged for you. The writing on the apron says “tipico lodigiano” (typical from Lodi).

PaviaThis is my submission for the 13th installment of the Abbecedario culinario d’Italia (Italian Culinary ABC), an event organized by Trattoria MuVarA that will bring us to visit all the 20 regions of Italy using the alphabet as guide. P come Pavia is hosted by Paola of Voglia di cucina…Voglia di sognare…. This page contains the list of dishes submitted to the event and a slide show.

Cheesepalooza-BadgeAnd I suspect the cheese lovers participating in the year long Cheesepalooza project, organized by Valerie of A Canadian Foodie will enjoy watching some of the photos in this post. Mascarpone is one of the optional cheeses that the group will make this month, so I am contributing my mascarpone adventures to the effort.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

serata alla Scala e mascarpone

or launch the una serata alla Scala e mascarpone audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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mascarpone, peach

Newrule

una serata alla Scala e mascarpone

Benevenuti al Teatro alla Scala.

Teatro alla Scala

veduta dal nostro palco

Tre anni fa passammo una serata memorabile in questo luogo davvero speciale.

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la mia sedia

Un piccolo monitor personale mostra i sottotitoli. Mio marito ha potuto selezionare i sottotitoli in inglese.

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bravi!

Abbiamo visto Le convenienze ed inconvenienze teatrali di Gaetano Donizetti, un’opera che ha come tema la messa in scena di un’opera: davvero divertente.

Teatro alla Scala

la facciata

Il Teatro alla Scala mi fa sempre pensare a Giuseppe Verdi e allo sceneggiato che la RAI trasmise nel 1982. Di Verdi, proprio la scorsa stagione la San Francisco Opera ha messo in scena Attila, una co-produzione della Scala, regia di Gabriele Lavia, scene di Alessandro Camera e costumi di Andrea Viotti. Tra l’altro il direttore musicale dell’Opera è un italiano: Nicola Luisotti. Il quartetto italiano di cui sopra aveva già un’opera nel programma 2011-12, il Don Giovanni di Mozart. Entrambi gli spettacoli sono stati molto belli.

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

Camminare dalla Scala a Piazza Duomo attraverso la Galleria è un piacere ad ogni ora del giono, ma in particolare di sera quando è tutta illuminata.

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sotto la cupola centrale

Questo è uno dei luoghi più eleganti d’Italia e uno che amo in modo particolare, come amo Milano, dove ho vissuto quasi 10 anni, prima di trasferirmi in California.

Nel nostro tour dell’Italia insieme alla carovana dell’Abbecedario culinario d’Italia siamo arrivati in Lombardia, dove ci sono molti posti bellissimi da visitare, a parte Milano: Pavia, Mantova, il Lago di Como, Bergamo, Cremona, la Valtellina e tanti altri.

Il mio primo contributo all’Abbecedario per questa tappa è stato una ricetta dal mio archivio: la polenta taragna, tipica della Valtellina. Il mio secondo contributo è la presentazione di una variazione della ricetta per fare il mascarpone, formaggio tipico lombardo, in particolare del lodigiano.

Una curiosità: in California c’è una città che si chiama Lodi (debitamente gemellata con la Lodi originale) e ci passiamo ogni volta che andiamo sulla Sierra Nevada. La Lodi californiana si trova nella San Joaquin Valley. Ma pare che Lodi sia un nome popolare nel Nuovo Mondo: guardate qui quante Lodi ci sono.

Ho già pubblicato una ricetta per fare il mascarpone in casa (post bilingue). Mi rendo conto che in Italia è molto più semplice comprarlo, ma vi assicuro che fare il mascarpone oltre ad essere relativamente semplice, dà molta soddisfazione. La ricetta di cui sopra fa uso di acido tartarico oppure di succo di limone. La scorsa settimana ho provato a fare il mascarpone con la coltura di batteri, seguendo la ricetta di Jim Wallace, e dimezzando (all’incirca) le quantità. Il risultato è molto buono. In questa versione è la miscela di panna e latte deve essere scaldata solo fino a 30 C, poi la coltura batterica si prende cura del resto, a temperatura ambiente.

La miscela di panna e latte che ho usato contiene

  • 355 ml di panna da montare al 40% di grasso: questo contenuto di grasso è più elevato di quello che uso di solito (35%)
  • 235 ml di latte scremato pastorizzato: questa quantità è maggiore di quella che uso di solito ma ho voluto bilanciare il più elevato contenuto di grasso della panna; ll contenuto totale di grasso della miscela è 24% (entro i valori ideali per fare il mascarpone)

Non avevo la coltura pronta per fare la crème fraîche, ma avevo mezzo pacchetto di coltura pronta per fromagina, che comprende gli stessi batteri lattici. In base alla descrizione (“un incrocio tra Fromage Blanc e Mascarpone”), ho pensato che sarebbe andata bene. La prossima volta proverò ad utilizzare la coltura per fare la crème fraîche per assaggiare la differenza. Entrambe le colture pronte contengono una piccola quantità di caglio.

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La sera dopo cena, dopo aver sterilizzato una pentola e tutti gli strumenti che vengono a contatto con panna e latte, ho aggiunto 5 gocce di cloruro di calcio diluite in 30 ml di acqua fredda alla miscela, ho mescolato bene e poi l’ho scaldata fino a 30 C. Una volta raggiunta la temperatura, ho sparso la coltura sulla superficie, l’ho lasciata rinvenire per alcuni minuti e ho mescolato bene. Ho coperto la pentola e l’ho lasciata a temperatura ambiente, avvolta in un asciugamano per rallentare la perdita di calore. La mattina dopo ho trovato una cagliata soffice, pronta per essere drenata.

All’inizio ho usato, come al solito, un tovagliolo di cotone sterilizzato, ma per qualche motivo il drenaggio non procedeva bene e allora ho versato il mascarpone su un doppio strato di retina fitta per formaggio, anch’esso sterilizzato (il mio post precedente sul mascarpone fatto in casa comprende una foto e ulteriori dettagli sulla fase di drenaggio). Ho interrotto il drenaggio quando il mascarpone ha raggiunto la consistenza desiderata (vedi foto sopra). Il siero che ho raccolto l’ho congelato per uso futuro nel fare il pane.

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Il giorno che il mascarpone era pronto per essere gustato ho ricevuto delle belle pesche appena colte dalla Neukom Family Farm e mi è sembrato ovvio mettere insieme i due. Non c’è bisogno di aggiungere altro: questo è un dessert ricco e soddisfacente da gustare lentamente, un cucchiaino dopo l’altro.

Come dice questa pagina dedicata ai cibi tipici del lodigiano:

Le glorie locali sono soprattutto i formaggi, il più famoso dei quali è il mascarpone, ma anche il pannerone, il granone Lodigiano, formaggio dal sapore oggi sempre più raro da trovare e la raspadura, un formaggio grana fresco che la tradizione vuole sia servito in sottili lamine che si arricciano su se stesse e raschiate sulla superficie della forma da un particolare coltello.

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il formaggio e la lama speciale

Guardare mentre tagliano la raspadura è divertente.

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la lama al lavoro

Poi è difficile smettere di mangiare le lamine di formaggio profumate.

PaviaQuesto è un altro contributo all’Abbecedario culinario d’Italia, un evento organizzato dalla Trattoria MuVarA che ci porterà a visitare tutte le regioni italiane utilizzando come guida l’alfabeto. P come Pavia è ospitata da Paola di Voglia di cucina…Voglia di sognare…

Questa pagina contiene la lista dei piatti contribuiti all’evento e uno slide show.

 

recipe: curried sweet chili peppers (peperoni al curry)

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formaggio fatto in casa: robiola / homemade robiola

robiola on the cutting board

on the cutting board, with salt-and-pepper cookies

Remember the photo I published recently for Black and White Wednesday where I held in my hand a nice piece of fresh cheese? I wrote then that I would talk a bit more about the cheese portrayed and that is what I will do in this post. I will actually talk very little, since everything you need to know about making the cheese is on the robiola recipe page of the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company website.

The page is authored by Jim Wallace. Having attended a workshop led by him earlier this year means that now, when I read the articles he writes, I can hear his voice providing instructions and guidance. As Jim explains in the introductory notes, there are various types of robiola. If you do a google image search after specifying robiola in the search field, you can get some idea of what those cheeses look like.

Since everything you need to know to make the cheese is on the relevant page, here I am sharing a few photos from my experience making it. I made it three times. The first time, I misjudged my mold needs, so I ended up with good-tasting cheese of weird shapes. I then got a ricotta basket and used that and the one I already had to mold the curds. Basically, I followed Jim's instructions (which, of course, I should have done to begin with).

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The photo above shows one of the baskets with the curds, resting on a grate that rests on a raised metal support, all placed inside a plastic container: this is so that the whey (siero di latte) can drain freely. I set aside the first two cups or so of whey and use it to make bread. I used the rest to water one of my rhododendrons. As mentioned previously, I have recently started to use cheese netting instead of cloth. There are some drawbacks, but the advantage is easy cleaning and handling.

The time from addition of rennet (caglio) to cutting the curd (cagliata) was 5.5 hours (this was based on observation of the curd and will probably vary when I make the cheese again). The amount of calcium chloride I used is 1/8 teaspoon.

draining robiola
Up close and personal with robiola draining in a ricotta mold

robiola in brine
robiola spending some time in brine

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then drying well before being put in the cheese fridge for a brief aging

The top photo shows what was left of one robiola after I cut some for dinner with my friend Christine of Christine Cooks and her husband and packed some for them to bring home. We enjoyed the lovely, fresh-tasting cheese, which I served with slices of pears. 

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A variation on the theme of formaggio con le pere (cheese with pears) is shown above, where the fruit is an Asian pear. There is a bit more to this, so I will leave you kind of hanging until I have time to reveal more.

The robiola we have eaten so far has been aged for a short period of time, in the order of 4-7 days. However, the very last small wheel has just spent two weeks in the fridge, due to our travels. Though slowly, due to the low temperature, the cheese has matured further and we are enjoying it on bread or pears.

I recommend this recipe to both the beginner and the experienced cheese-maker: it is pretty straightforward, the result can be tasted within a few days of making it, and the resulting cheese is very nice.

Exciting update (October 31, 2011): my report on making robiola at home is featured in today's post on the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company blog. Thanks!

Another exciting update (November 4, 2011): I submitted the post to Homegrown.org as participant to their Homegrown Fair and it was chosen as winner of week 1 of the event. Thanks!

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

formaggio fatto in casa: robiola

or launch the formaggio fatto in casa: robiola audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

cheese

recipe: white mushrooms with cheese (funghi prataioli trifolati con formaggella di Tremosine)

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