lassi alla salsa di mele / applesauce lassi

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

apple sauce lassi

heatlhy breakfast beverage

"Everything tastes better with applesauce" has been a tenet of our household ever since I started making roasted applesauce. It is easy to make, healthy, and has an intense apple flavor undisturbed by extraneous ingredients. Just to give a couple of examples, I have used it to dress gnocchi di ricotta, to accompany French toast, and, of course, simply spread on bread.

I've been making kefir at home for 13 months now. I use it in various ways, in particular to prepare lassi for my husband's breakfast (colazione): strawberry or peach lassi, when either fruit is in season, or mango lassi, when I find good mangoes at the store. One day that I had no suitable fruit available, I decided to try using roasted applesauce. The result was applauded and therefore, this has become the classic winter lassi.

The batch of applesauce in the photo turned out of a lovely pinkish color thanks to the inclusion of some apples of red-skinned apple varieties to make it.

apple sauce lassi

not the last jar of roasted apple sauce

Ingredients for one portion:

  • 1/4 cup [60 ml] roasted applesauce
  • 1 cups [240 ml] plain kefir, possibly homemade
  • agave nectar or honey, optional and to taste (I don't use any)

Put apple sauce and kefir into the blender. Blend, taste and, if desired, add a bit of sweetener. Pour into a tall glass (bicchiere) and serve. 

image from 3.bp.blogspot.comThis is my contribution to edition #370 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by Lynne of Cafe Lynnylu.

This post contains the roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

lassi alla salsa di mele 

or launch the lassi alla salsa di mele audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

[jump to Comments]

kefir, apple

Newrule

lassi alla salsa di mele

apple sauce lassi

bevanda ottima per la colazione

"Tutto è piu buono con la salsa di mele" diciamo spesso in casa da quando faccio la salsa di mele arrosto. È facile da preparare ed ha un intenso sapore di mele non disturbato dall'aggiunta di ingredienti estranei. L'ho usata per condire gli gnocchi di ricotta, per accompagnare del French toast, e, naturalmente, semplicamente splamata sul pane.

Faccio il kefir a casa ormai da 13 mesi e lo utilizzo in vari modi, soprattutto per preparare una bevanda per la colazione di mio marito: lassi alla fragola o alla pesca, quando questi frutti sono di stagione, oppure al mango. Un giorno che non avevo frutta adatta ho provato ad usare un po' della salsa di mele arrosto e, dato il successo del risultato, questa versione della bevanda è diventata un classico del periodo invernale.

La salsa di mele nella foto è venuta di colore rosato grazie alla presenza di mele dalla buccia rossa.

apple sauce lassi

non è l'ultimo vasetto di salsa di mele

Ingredienti per una porzione:

Mettere nel frullatore salsa di mele e kefir. Frullare, assaggiare e, se necessario, aggiungere del nettare di agave o miele. Versare la bevanda in un bicchiere e servire.

image from 3.bp.blogspot.comQuesto post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 370 di Weekend Herb Blogging, un evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, organizzato ora da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once, la cui versione italiana è organizzata da Brii di briggishome, e ospitata questa settimana da Brii stessa.

Questo post contiene il raccolto dell'evento.

scone alla ricotta con semi di papavero / ricotta scones with poppy seeds

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

poppy seeds and pod

poppy seeds and pod

You get up and reach the kitchen in that half-clouded state where the battle between the wish to sleep and the need to wake up is waged. The smell of something baking is, together with the smell of espresso, the best invitation to alertness you can receive at this point in your day, especially if the baked goods are scones.

You smell something slightly buttery and crisp. A bite brings you past the crispness to reach the soft heart with its hint of citrus, the delicate pop of poppy seeds, and the light creaminess of ricotta. When warm from the oven, scones are best by themselves.

Image
I published the top photo in a post for Black and White Wednesday last year, after harvesting the seeds from dried pods. When they are ready to bloom, poppies do so fairly fast, so one can watch the process and even hear the petals stretch into freedom. I have some red and some purple poppies in my little garden: they are a pleasure to watch at any stage of their development.

The language corner: — in Italian, papavero is sometimes used metaphorically to indicate a bigwig, like in the expression gli alti papaveri. This is the sense in which the word was used in a famous song from 1952, Papaveri e papere (Poppies and Ducklings) sung by Nilla Pizzi at the Sanremo Music Festival. You can see her in this video in a duet with Mina. The papere represent the powerless.

ricotta scones with poppy seeds

After finishing his second one,
my husband called them "scones plus"

For this recipe, inspired by the curried pumpkin and ginger scones I presented a few days ago, I used the last of the poppy seeds I harvested last year and homemade ricotta from my most recent cheese-making session.

Ingredients (see my previous post for additional information on the original recipe and the ingredients):

  1. 3 tablespoons (1.5 oz. / 42 g) unsalted browned butter
  2. 2 tablespoons buckwheat flour + 2 tablespoons cornmeal + enough all-purpose flour to make 1 cup OR 1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
  3. 1/2 cup (65 g) whole-wheat pastry flour
  4. 1/2 tablespoon baking powder
  5. 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  6. 1/4 teaspoon vanilla sea salt1 (or regular sea salt)
  7. 1/2 tablespoon ultra-fine or granulated sugar (or 1, if you want the scones a bit sweeter)
  8. 2 tablespoons candied citron, chopped
  9. 1 tablespoon poppy seeds
  10. 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
  11. 2.5 oz. (70 g) ricotta, mashed (I used my homemade ricotta)
  12. 1/2 cup (120 ml) homemade kefir; original recipe alternatives: buttermilk, plain yogurt or sour cream (low-fat or nonfat is fine)

Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or a piece of parchment paper and dust the surface lightly with some flour. Take the browned butter out of the fridge and let it slightly soften while you prepare the other ingredients. Measure ingredients number 2 through 7 and put into the food processor fitted with steel blade. Cut butter into pieces and add to the food processor. Pulse a few times for several seconds until the flour mix resembles coarse meal.

Pour dry ingredients into a bowl, add candied citron and mix with your hands to coat the pieces. Add the poppy seeds and stir to distribute. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients, then add them to the dry mix. Stir with a spatula until just combined. Turn onto the lined sheet and shape into a 1/2-inch thick square. Dust surface of dough lightly with some flour. With a bench scraper, cut into four lengthwise and then crosswise to get 16 small squares. With the help of the bench scraper, separate the pieces, so that they are at least one inch apart. If the corner pieces are much smaller than the rest, join them, so you'll end up with 14 scones of comparable size.

Bake for 15 minutes, then check the bottom of one scone: if it is golden brown, they are ready, otherwise, bake for another two minutes and check again. When ready, move them onto a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

1 I make vanilla salt similarly to vanilla sugar: I rinse well vanilla bean pieces used to make ice cream, then add them to quality sea salt and let the salt absorb the vanilla flavor for at least two weeks before using.

Whb337This is my contribution to edition #337 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by Terry of Crumpets & co.

This post contains the roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

scone alla ricotta con semi di papavero

or launch the scone alla ricotta con semi di papavero audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

[jump to Comments]

scone, poppy seeds, ricotta, kefir, citron

Newrule

scone alla ricotta con semi di papavero

poppy seeds and pod

semi di papavero e capsula

Al mattino ti svegli e raggiungi la cucina in stato confusionale. Il profumo di qualcosa che sta cuocendo nel forno, insieme a quello del caffè, è il miglior invito a svegliarsi del tutto che si possa ricevere in questo momento della giornata, specialemente se il profumo è quello di scone.

Un morso affonda i denti in qualcosa di sottilmente croccante che poi diventa soffice, sa vagamente di agrume, ha la lieve croccantezza dei semi di papavero e la leggera cremosità della ricotta. Quando sono appena sfornati, gli scone sono buoni da soli.

Image
Ho pubblicato la foto in alto in un post per Black and White Wednesday l'anno scorso, dopo aver raccolto i semi di papavero dalle capsule secche. Quando sono pronti a sbocciare, i papaveri procedono abbastanza rapidamente tanto che si può osservare l'evento e anche sentire i petali che si stiracchiano nella libertà. Ho alcuni papaveri rossi e altri viola nel mio orticello e mi piace ammirarli ad ogni stadio del loro sviluppo.

scone all ricotta con semi di papavero

Dopo aver finito il secondo,
mio marito li ha chiamati "scone più"

Per questa ricetta, ispirata dal quella degli scone zucca e zenzero con curry presentata alcuni giorni fa, ho usato l'ultimo cucchiaio di semi di papavero dell'anno scorso e ricotta fatta in casa dalla mia sessione casearia più recente. (Vedi il mio post sugli scone zucca e zenzero con curry per ulteriori informazioni riguardanti la ricetta che mi ha ispirato.)

Ingredienti:

  1. 42 g burro nocciola
  2. 2 cucchiai (30 ml) farina di grano saraceno + (30 ml) fioretto di mais + abbastanza farina di grano per arrivare a 130 g, oppure 130 g di farina di grano
  3. 65 g farina integrale fina (da dolci)
  4. 1/2 cucchiaio (7,5 ml) lievito per dolci
  5. 1/4 cucchiaino bicarbonato di soda
  6. 1/4 cucchiaino sale fino alla vaniglia1
  7. 1/2 cucchiaio (7,5 ml) zucchero bianco fine (o 1 cucchiaio se preferite gli scone un po' più dolci)
  8. 2 cucchiai (30 ml) cedro candito a pezzetti
  9. 1 cucchiaio (15 ml) semi di papavero
  10. 1 cucchiaino (5 ml) succo di limone fresco
  11. 70 g ricotta (io ho usato la mia ricotta fatta in casa)
  12. 120 ml kefir fatto in casa; alternative: latticello, yogurt bianco o panna acida (va bene anche parzialmente scremato o magro)

Scaldare il forno a 218 C. Foderare una lastra da forno con un tappetino di silicone per forno o carta da forno e spargere un po' di farina sulla superficie. Togliere dal frigorifero il burro nocciola e farlo ammorbidire leggermente mentre preparate gli altri ingredienti. Misurare gli ingredienti dal numero 2 all'11 e metterli nel robot con la lama d'acciaio. Tagliare a pezzi il burro e aggiungerlo agli ingredienti. Pulsare un po' di volte per diversi secondi per sabbiare.

Versare gli ingredienti secchi in una ciotola, aggiungere i pezzetti di cedro candito e mescolare con le mani per infarinarli. Aggiungere i semi di papavero e mescolare per distribuirli. In una ciotola piccola, mescolare gli altri due ingredienti e poi aggiungeteli a quelli secchi. Mescolare solo fino a quando si ha un impasto coeso.

Rovesciare l'impasto sulla lastra foderata e dargli la forma di un quadrato spesso 1,25 cm. Spolverare la superficie con un pochino di farina. Con un raschietto, tagliare il quadrato in quattro per lungo e per largo in modo da ottenere 16 quadretti. Con l'aiuto del raschietto, separare i quadretti in modo che siano distanti almeno 2,5 cm. Se i quadretti d'angolo sono molto più piccoli degli altri, uniteli a due a due in modo da avere 14-15 scone di dimensioni simili.

Infornare e cuocere per 15 minuti, poi controllare il fondo di uno scone: se è bello dorato, gli scone sono pronti. Se no, cuocere per un altro paio di minuti e controllare di nuovo. Quando sono pronti, trasferirli su una griglia e servirli caldi o a temperatura ambiente.

1 Io preparo il sale alla vaniglia allo stesso modo dello zucchero alla vaniglia: sciacquo bene i pezzi di baccello utilizzati per preparare il gelato e li aggiungo a sale marino fino. Lascio che il sale assorba l'aroma di vaniglia per almeno due settimane prima di cominciare ad utilizzarlo.

Whb337Questo post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 337 di Weekend Herb Blogging, un evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, organizzato ora da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once, la cui versione italiana è organizzata da Brii di briggishome, e ospitata questa settimana da Terry di Crumpets & co.

Questo post contiene il raccolto dell'evento.

recipe: strawberry lassi (lassi alla fragola)

Print Friendly and PDF

lassi alla fragola / strawberry lassi

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

strawberry lassi

strawberry lassi made with kefir

Having a steady supply of homemade kefir means being able to experiment with it on the spur of the moment. My husband likes Indian food and when he eats at an Indian restaurant, he always orders a mango lassi, so it was not difficult to choose that fruit flavor for my first try at using kefir to make the beverage. But then, of course, I had to invent something different.

You may remember from last year (and if you don't, I'll remind you right now) that I tried roasting strawberries (fragole) flavored with balsamic vinegar, then explored a couple of ways of using them, namely gelato and frittata. To be totally honest, the first time I prepared strawberry lassi, I used fresh strawberries and the verdict was: not enough strawberry flavor. So then, the idea of using roasted strawberries formed itself.

roasted strawberries

roasted strawberries

Strawberries are available at the Temescal Farmers' Market, in Oakland, one of the places where I shop, so it was easy to go from thought to action and the result was greeted with warm approval. Hence, this has now become a standard item on the breakfast menu at our house.

strawberry lassi

it was good!

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Strawberry lassi

Ingredients for two portions (porzioni):

  • 8 oz. [225 g] organic or pesticide-free strawberries
  • 1/4 teaspoon balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico) of good quality
  • 1/2 teaspoon ultra-fine sugar
  • 2 cups [475 ml] plain kefir, possibly homemade
  • agave nectar or honey, to taste (the quantity depending on the sweetness of the strawberries and your personal preference)

Wash strawberries and carve out stem. Place in a bowl, sprinkle balsamic vinegar and sugar, and toss gently. Heat the oven to 350 F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat that is wider and longer than the sheet, so no juice can escape from any side. Place strawberries on the sheet on a single layer. Put the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Let strawberries cool completely. They will juice while baking, so when moving them to the blender in the next step, scoop up the juice as well.

Put half the strawberries and juice into the blender, add 1 cup of kefir and a bit of agave nectar. Add a bit more kefir, if you wish, depending on your personal taste in terms of flavor and texture. Blend, taste and adjust sweetener. Pour into a tall glass and serve. Repeat with the rest of the strawberries and the other cup of kefir, or make one portion and store the strawberries for later use.

Whb329This is my contribution to edition #329 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by Simona of briciole (a.k.a., me).

This post contains the roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

lassi alla fragola

or launch the lassi alla fragola audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

[jump to Comments]

kefir, strawberry

Newrule

lassi alla fragola

lassi alla fragola

lassi alla fragola fatto col kefir

Avere a disposizione kefir fatto in casa vuol dire poter fare esperimenti non pianificati. A mio marito piace la cucina indiana e quando mangia in un ristorante indiano da bere ordina sempre un lassi al mango. Il lassi è una bevanda preparata con yogurt che può essere sia dolce che salata. La prima volta che ho provato a fare il lassi usando il mio kefir sono andata sul sicuro e ho usato del mango. Ma poi, naturalmente, ho voluto inventare qualcosa di diverso.

Forse vi ricorderete (altrimenti ve lo rammento io adesso) che l'anno scorso ho provato a cuocere al forno le fragole aromatizzate con aceto balsamico e poi le ho usate per fare il gelato e la frittata. In tutta onestà, la prima volta che ho provato a fare il lassi alla fragola ho usato fragole fresche e il verdetto è stato: insufficiente sapore di fragola. E allora mi è venuto in mente di provare ad usare le fragole arrosto.

roasted strawberries

fragole arrosto

Le fragole le trovo al Temescal Farmers' Market, ad Oakland (la stagione delle fragole in California è molto lunga, grazie al clima), quindi mi è stato facile passare ai fatti. Il risultato è stato ben accolto e quindi il lassi alla fragola è entrato a far parte del menu della colazione a casa nostra (mio marito, da buon americano, necessita di una colazione sostanziosa).

strawberry lassi

che buono che era!

Ingredienti per due porzioni:

  • 225 g fragole bio
  • 1/4 cucchiaino aceto balsamico di buona qualità
  • 1/2 cucchiaino di zucchero finissimo
  • 475 ml kefir bianco, possibilmente fatto in casa
  • nettare di agave o miele a piacere (la quantità dipende dalla dolcezza delle fragole e dal gusto personale)

Lavare le fragole e privarle del picciolo. Mettere le fragole in una ciotola e spruzzare aceto balsamico e aggiungere zucchero. Mescolare bene con delicatezza. Scaldare il forno a 175 C. Foderare una lastra da forno con un tappetino di silicone per forno che sia più lungo e più largo, in modo che il succo prodotto durante la cottura in forno non finisca sotto il tappetino. Disporre le fragole sulla lastra. Mettere in forno e cuocere per 30 minuti. (La temperatura in gradi Fahrenheit che uso io, 350, è un po' al di sopra di 175 C e un po' al di sotto di 180 C. Ho deciso di specificare la temperatura più bassa poiché preferisco essere cauta. Potete lasciare le fragole in forno qualche minuto in più, ma fate attenzione che il succo non bruci.) Lasciar raffreddare le fragole.

Trasferire metà delle fragole e del succo che producono durante la cottura nel frullatore, aggiungere metà del kefir e un tocco di nettare di agave o miele. Aggiungere un poco di kefir, a seconda del gusto per quanto riguarda sapore e consistenza. Frullare, assaggiare e, se necessario, aggiungere del nettare di agave o miele. Versare la bevanda in un bicchiere e servire. Ripetere il procedimento con l'altra metà delle fragole e del kefir, oppure preparare una porzione sola e conservare le fragole per usarle più avanti.

Whb329Questo post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 329 di Weekend Herb Blogging, un evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, organizzato ora da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once, la cui versione italiana è organizzata da Brii di briggishome, e ospitata questa settimana da Simona di briciole (cioè me).

Questo post contiene il raccolto dell'evento.

formaggio fresco di kefir fatto in casa / homemade fresh kefir cheese

kefir cheese

kefir cheese with dukkah and cacao nibs

As I mentioned in the post on homemade kefir, for my first attempt I used kefir culture. The flavor of the kefir was a bit too acidic for our taste, and at that point, I had not yet learned all the ways in which to use kefir that I know now. I decided to see how the kefir would taste once the whey was removed, so I poured the kefir into a cloth-lined colander, then made a bundle and hung it up to drain for 24 hours (at room temperature).

DSC_0018-2
I then chopped up finely a sample of herbs from my little garden: dill (aneto), mint (menta), chives (erba cipollina), parsley (prezzemolo), added a bit of salt and freshly milled pepper and mixed into the drained kefir, then molded it using my favorite heart-shaped mold.

kefir cheese

The mold rests on a small grid for draining

I let the kefir cheese drain in the fridge for 3-4 days, then unmolded and tasted it.

kefir cheese

kefir cheese with fresh herbs

The flavor was pleasantly tangy and the herbs gave it a nice nuance. It was particularly nice spread over a slightly sweet bread like my homemade challah.

After this success, I obtained kefir grains (grani di kefir), as recounted in the previous post. I made kefir using them and then made kefir cheese again, but this time instead of herbs, I added dukkah and cacao nibs (granella di fave di cacao). If you don’t know what dukkah is, read on.

A few years ago, I attended an evening class on sourdough bread. It was not only the beginning of my sourdough baking adventure, but also of an acquaintance that turned into a friendship with Rhonda, who taught the class. For the bread tasting, Rhonda made some dukkah, something I had never seen before.

DSC_0033

my rendition of dukkah

Dukkah (also spelled duqqa or dukka) comes to us from Egypt: it is a mix of toasted and ground spices and nuts.

The word is derived from the Arabic for “to pound” since the mixture of spices and nuts are pounded together after being dry roasted to a texture that is neither powdered nor paste-like. The actual composition of the spice mix can vary from family to family, vendor to vendor though there are common ingredients, such as sesame, coriander, cumin, salt and pepper. [source]

The recipe I use comes from 101 Cookbooks. I halve the quantities, because the full recipe makes quite a bit. And I like it coarsely ground (I use the food processor to do the grinding).

drained kefir

fresh kefir cheese (drained kefir)

Back to the kefir, this time I drained it using a double layer of cheese netting instead of cloth. As I was about to gather some herbs to repeat the process followed before, my eyes encountered the jar where my freshly made dukkah was stored and I interpreted that as a sign. Next to it, there was the container where I keep cacao nibs (which I get from Dick Taylor Chocolate). Having successfully used cacao nibs with hard cheese, it was not difficult to decide to add those as well (after all, they are also toasted and ground, like the spices and nuts in dukkah).

I added a teaspoon each of dukkah and cacao nibs, relying on my sense of balance to make an educated guess. I wanted the flavor to be detectable, but not overpowering, a balance I had previously achieved with the herb mix. I also added a bit more of salt, mixed lightly and then filled the heart-shaped mold. Once again, I let the cheese sit in the fridge and drain further for 3-4 days and then tasted it: I was very happy with the result.

For my second batch of kefir cheese, I increased the amount of both dukkah and cacao nibs to 1 and 1/2 teaspoon each and let the cheese rest in the fridge 5 days. If you try, I recommend you start with the lower quantity and see how you like it. (I suspect that the combination would also work with labneh, but have not tried it.)

Ingredients:

  • 10 oz drained kefir (see Note below)
  • a generous pinch of sea salt
  • 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoon dukkah (see text above)
  • 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoon cacao nibs (see text above)

Note: How much kefir? I use kefir made with non-fat milk and drain about 7 cups (1.65 l). I don’t make that much kefir all at the same time. I usually make a pint (2 cups, 475 ml) or a quart (4 cups, 950 ml), depending on what my plans for using it are. (According to this site, it is actually better to let kefir ripen for a day or two before using it.) Pour kefir into a cloth-lined colander (I use a cotton napkin with a tight weave or a double layer of cheese netting). Gather the corners and make a bundle. Hang it over a bowl and let drain for 24 hours. (I don’t have a photo of my set up, but this is quite similar: note the colander placed over the pot: if for whatever reason the bundle falls, it doesn’t splash into the whey.) Reserve the whey and use it.

Sanitize a 4 1/4-inch heart-shaped mold (or other mold of choice) in boiling water. Sprinkle salt, dukkah and cacao nibs on the drained kefir and mix in. Place into mold and pack lightly.

Place a small grid at the bottom of a container and put the mold on it. Cover the container and refrigerate. Every day, discard the whey that collects at the bottom of the container.

After 3-5 days, unmold the cheese ahead of time and serve at room temperature. If the cheese is still very wet, put the leftover back into the mold and the draining container. If the cheese is not too wet, store it in cheese paper. Either way, put the cheese in the fridge. Ideally, you should bring to room temperature only the amount of cheese you will consume, so the rest can remain at constant temperature.

curry pumpkin and ginger scones

curry pumpkin and ginger scones

My favorite combination is kefir cheese spread over curry and pumpkin scones made with kefir instead of buttermilk and brown butter (details in an upcoming post).

Exciting update (May 26, 2012): my kefir cheese story is featured in today’s post on the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company blog.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

formaggio fresco di kefir fatto in casa

or launch the formaggio fesco di kefir fatto in casa audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

kefir, cheese, dukkah, cacao nibs

zuppa di verza e cavolo riccio per Anna / Savoy cabbage and kale soup for Anna

DSC_0011-2

Savoy cabbage and kale soup

Since I started writing (mostly about food), I look at memories and memoirs with a different eye. I grew up with a father who was constantly narrating stories and a mother who basically never did. When I was a kid, I listened to my father, but I was not fully aware of how important such transfer of information was. Now I have a different perspective.

5194rnb8n9L._SL500_AA300_

A little voice inside me has been saying that I should record my father's stories. The voice grew firmer after I read Anna, Heart of a Peasant, by Carol Marie Davis. Ms. Davis is Anna's granddaughter and is also Rachel's mother and Rachel writes The Crispy Cook and co-hosts the Cook the Books Club.

Anna's story is different from that of any member of my family, since none of them traveled half-way across the world and started a new life in a place utterly different from the one in which they had grown up. My maternal grandmother moved from Croatia next door to Italy after marrying, but I have no idea what she thoughts of her adoptive country. I guess I did move half-way across the world, and I can tell you that it was not an easy transition, although I had several advantages over Anna, not the least of them the fact that I spoke the language and I had someone waiting for me in California. Anna was sent away from her native village in Byelorussia (now Belarus) following a terrible accident (I am trying not to give away too much here) and after a brief interlude, she boarded a ship headed towards America.

In the first part of the book, Ms. Davis recreates the life of Anna's family in the countryside of Byelorussia, a life steeped in popular traditions that coexist with religious faith. In the second part, we see Anna holding on to the traditional knowledge her grandmother had transmitted to her, while adjusting to the ups and downs of life in the US (having arrived in 1914, Anna experienced, among other things, the Great Depression).

The book follows Anna as she gets married, starts a family, moves into a house, raises children and grandchildren in Hastings-on-Hudson (NY). The last chapter includes a moving photograph of Anna and her husband, saying goodbye to each other on the grounds of a nursing home. The photo was taken by Ms. Davis and I want to think that it represents how she remembers her grandparents: looking at each other, holding hands. Together, they've gone through a lot.

The last pages of the book contain a set of recipes, a tribute to Anna's cooking. When I read them, I had no doubts about my choice: cabbage soup. Interestingly enough, the same recipe caught the attention of other readers of the book. In particular, Rachel, Anna's great-granddaughter, has made the soup and I refer you to her post on the topic for the original recipe. I made a number of changes to adapt it to my taste and ingredients I have available. I used a lovely purple Savoy cabbage, locally grown, and Red Russian kale from my garden. I added a bit of celery and thyme to the garlic, onion and carrot base, used fire-roasted crushed tomatoes instead of puréed tomatoes, omitted the sugar and cut down the lemon juice. Finally, I topped the soup with homemade kefir instead of sour cream.

DSC_0023-1

purple Savoy cabbage

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/4 pound Savoy cabbage sliced into 1/2-inch ribbons
  • 3/4 pound Red Russian kale, thick ribs removed and sliced into 1/2-inch ribbons
  • olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons minced garlic (aglio)
  • 1 large onion (cipolla), chopped
  • a few sprigs of fresh thyme
  • 1 large carrot (carota), chopped
  • half a celery rib (costa di sedano), chopped
  • 1 quart (4 cups) homemade light chicken stock or vegetable option
  • 1 28-ounce can fire-roasted crushed tomatoes
  • 1 tablespoon of tomato paste (concentrato di pomodoro)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • salt and freshly milled black pepper
  • homemade kefir (optional)

In a large soup pot, heat oil and sauté garlic for a couple of minutes, then add onion and thyme and sauté for a few minutes, then add carrot and celery and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring often. Add stock, tomatoes, tomato paste, and bay leaf and simmer for 10 minutes or so, until carrots are tender.

Take out the bay leaf and discard. Purée with an immersion blender. Add lemon juice, cabbage and kale, and 3 cups of water. Simmer until cabbage is cooked (in my case it was about 45 minutes). Add more water, if needed, to obtain a soup of the desired consistency. Adjust salt and pepper and serve topped with some homemade kefir.

DSC_0045w

kale everywhere

Kale grows plentiful in my little vegetable garden and it reseeds itself, mostly due to the fact that I always let one or two plants go to seeds and then the seeds end up in my compost, so spreading the compost means spreading kale. I am not complaining: above you can see a corner of the garden where kale is a cover crop.

I am adding my thoughts on Anna, Heart of a Peasant to those of other bloggers, as you can see in this post, where Rachel of The Crispy Cook has gathered all the reviews. Thank you, Ms. Davis, for a very interesting read, and thank you, Rachel, for sharing your mother's book with us.

Souper Sundayslogo And I am sending this hearty soup to Souper (Soup, Salad & Sammies) Sundays, a weekly event created by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen (another co-host of the Cook the Books Club).

This post contains the roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

zuppa di verza e cavolo riccio per Anna

or launch the zuppa di verza e cavolo riccio per Anna audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

FTC disclosure: I have received a free review copy of the book mentioned in this post. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for discussing the book on my blog. The views expressed in the post are my own.

cabbage, kale, tomato, soup