crema (da spalmare) di fagioli e zucca / bean and winter squash spread

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

bean and squash spread / IMG_2563

an appealing and appetizing spread
on placemat from La FABBRICA del LINO

A roasted winter squash is a gift that keeps giving. In other words, roast once, use in many ways. One day that I had a small amount leftover and I had just cooked some beans, I tried to combine the two and the result is a nice spread that, as I described in my previous post, I even used to dress pasta.

pumpkins and winter squashes at the farmers' market / DSC_0022

my idea of a candy store (negozio di caramelle)

I have made this spread with various squashes (like Red Kuri, Kabocha, acorn) and different types of beans and it came out always good (and also of a slightly different color). The spread is creamy and its flavor is a balance between bold beans, sweet squash and sparkling shallot (scalogno).

Warren Creek Farms beans

Paul's mix, a medley of organic beans

FTC disclosure: I have received the placemat free of charge from the manufacturer, la FABBRICA del LINO. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. 


Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Bean and winter squash spread

Ingredients:

  • 3.5 ounces / 1/2 cup / 100 g Paul's mix beans or other dried beans of choice, like cannellini or canario [see below how to cook beans with aromatics]
  • 6 ounces / 170 g roasted winter squash pulp [see below how to prepare it]
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 4 ounces / 112 g shallot or sweet onion (or a combination of the two), thinly sliced (1/8 inch / 3 mm)
  • 1/2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
  • Fine sea salt and freshly milled pepper, to taste

How to cook dry beans
The way I cook beans for further use comes from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison (Beans with Aromatics). After soaking half a cup of dry beans for several hours or overnight in enough water to cover them by about an inch (I use two cups / 475 ml), empty the whole bowl into a saucepan and add

  • Half of a small onion (or a quarter of a medium one), halved
  • A bay leaf
  • A small clove of garlic, sliced
  • A couple of sprigs of fresh parsley

Bring the water to a lively boil quickly, and keep it there for five minutes, then turn down the heat and let the beans simmer, covered, until they are ready. How long this takes depends on the type of beans and their freshness. Let them cool in their broth, then remove the aromatics and discard them. Let the beans rest in their cooking broth until ready to use.

How to prepare the winter squash
Preheat the oven to 375 F. If the squash is hard, pre-process it as follows: pierce it with a blade in a few places, place it on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat, and bake it for 15 minutes, then let is cool slightly. This makes it easier to cut it in half.

Cut the squash (pre-processed or raw) in half lengthwise and remove the seeds (a grapefruit spoon is my preferred tool for this task). Place halves on the silicone baking mat, cut side down. Put in the oven and bake until tender, easily pierced with a blade. Let cool, then scrape the flesh off the skin, again using a grapefruit spoon, and place in a bowl or suitable container.

Let the squash pulp cool completely and weigh the amount required by the recipe.

How to finish the dish
Warm up 1/2 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small frying pan and add the shallot or onion. Cook on gentle heat until soft and slightly caramelized. Sprinkle a bit of salt and stir.

Drain the beans, leaving them a bit moist. This is one of the advantages of cooking beans by yourself (instead of buying canned ones): the cooking liquid is aromatic and can be used as part of the dish you are making. Place the beans in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add squash pulp, cooked shallot or onion and start the processor.

When the beans are partially mashed, add the other 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil slowly through the feeding tube while the processor is running. Scrape the side of the bowl with a spatula to make sure that the ingredients get processed properly.

Process until all creamy. Add a bit of the bean cooking liquid to reach the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Remove from the food processor and refrigerate until use.

Take the spread out of the refrigerator ahead of serving (so it is not consumed cold). Serve with toasted bread or skorpor.

If you know you will not consume all the spread within a couple of days, freeze a portion in a suitable container for later use.


Other recipes that use roasted winter squash or pumpkin: this soupthese scones, this bread, or this focaccia.

Another bean spread: fasole bătută (from Romania).


BlackWhiteBlackEyedPeasSmall72The beans make my spread eligible for My Legume Love Affair #80, the current edition of the popular, legume-centered event created by Susan, The Well-Seasoned Cook, now organized by Lisa of Lisa's Kitchen, and hosted this month by Shaheen of Allotment2Kitchen.

The roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

crema (da spalmare) di fagioli e zucca

or launch the crema (da spalmare) di fagioli e zucca audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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beans, spread, winter squash

Newrule

crema (da spalmare) di fagioli e zucca

bean and squash spread / IMG_2563

una presentazione attraente
su tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO

Una zucca cotta al forno è una sorgente continua di ispirazione. Un giorno che ne avevo un po' avanzata da un'altra ricetta e avevo appena cotto dei fagioli ho pensato di mettere insieme i due ingredienti e il risultato mi è piaciuto molto (tanto che, come mostrato nel post precedente, l'ho anche usato per condire della pasta).

pumpkins and winter squashes at the farmers' market / DSC_0022

molto meglio di un negozio di caramelle

Ho preparato questa crema con vari tipi di zucca e di fagioli e ogni volta è venuta buona (e anche di colore un po' diverso): è cremosa e il suo sapore è in equilibrio tra quello intenso dei fagioli, quello dolciastro della zucca e quello brillante dello scalogno.

Warren Creek Farms beans

Paul's mix, fagioli bio di diverse varietà

FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto la tovaglietta gratuitamente dall'azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarlo sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.


Ingredienti per i fagioli:

  • 100 g fagioli secchi: cannellini o borlotti o altra varietà simile
  • mezza cipolla piccola (o un quarto di cipolla media)
  • una fogliolina d'alloro
  • un piccolo spicchio d'aglio tagliato a fettine
  • un paio di steli di prezzemolo

Altri ingredienti per la crema:

  • 170 g zucca cotta al forno [vedi sotto come prepararla]
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml olio extra-vergine di oliva, diviso
  • 112 g scalogno o cipolla dolce (o un misto dei due) tagliato a fettine fine (3 mm)
  • 1/2 cucchiaio foglioline di timo fresco
  • sale fino e pepe macinato fresco, q.b.

Cuocere i fagioli
Il metodo che uso per cuocere i fagioli secchi viene da Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone di Deborah Madison (Beans with Aromatics). Dopo aver tenuto in ammollo 100 g di fagioli in 475 ml d'acqua per diverse ore o tutta la notte, versare il tutto in una pentola e aggiungere gli odori.

Portare a bollore vivace e mantenerlo per 5 minuti, poi abbassare il calore e far cuocere, coperti, fino a quando i fagioli non sono teneri. Il tempo necessario dipende dal tipo di fagioli e dalla loro freschezza. Far freddare i fagioli nel liquido di cottura, poi rimuovere gli odori e scartarli. Lasciare i fagioli nel liquido di cottura fino a quando non li utilizzate.

Preparare la zucca
Scaldare il forno a 190 C. Foderare una placca da forno con un tappetino di silicone per il forno.

Per evitare di far saltare la lama al coltello nel tentativo di tagliare a metà una zucca, bucarla in alcuni punti con una lama appuntita e metterla  in forno sulla placca preparata per 15 minuti. Quando si è intiepidita abbastanza da poterla toccare, procedere come descritto nel paragrafo successivo.

Se utilizzate una zucca che si taglia facilmente, saltate il passaggio descritto nel paragrafo precedente. Tagliare la zucca a metà e usare un cucchiaino da pompelmo per rimuovere i semi.

Metterla in forno, sulla placca preparata, con la parte tagliata in basso e cuocerla finché non è morbida. Toglierla dal forno e, quando è tiepida, usare il cucchiaino da pompelmo per rimuovere la polpa. Metterla in un contenitore adatto.

Far raffreddare la zucca e pesare la quantità di richiesta dalla ricetta.

Completare la preparazione
In una padellina, scaldare mezzo cucchiaio dell'olio e aggiungere lo scalogno o cipolla. Cuocere a fuoco dolce fino a quando sia morbido e leggermente caramellizzato (abbiate pazienza, ci vuole un po'). Salare leggermente e mescolare.

Scolare i fagioli, ma lasciarli un po' umidi. Questo è uno dei vantaggi di cuocere i fagioli da soli (piuttosto che comprarli in scatola): il liquido di cottura è aromatico e quindi utilizzabile nella preparazione del piatto per il quale avete cotto i fagioli.

Versare i fagioli nel robot con la lama, aggiungere la zucca e lo scalogno cotto (o cipolla) e far andare il robot. Quando i fagioli sono parzialmente passati, far scendere lentamente il restante mezzo cucchiaio d'olio dall'apertura sul coperchio del robot, mentre il robot continua ad andare. Raschiare la parete del robot per assicurarvi che gli ingredienti vengano passati bene.

Continuare fino a quando si ottiene una crema omogenea. Aggiungere un po' del liquido di cottura dei fagioli per ottenere la consistenza desiderata. Condire con sale e pepe a seconda del gusto. Rimuovere dal robot e riporre in frigorifero.

Tirare fuori dal frigorifero la crema in modo che non sia fredda al momento di servirla. Servire con pane tostato oppure skorpor.

Se sapete che non consumerete tutta la crema entro un paio di giorni dalla preparazione, congelatene una parte per utilizzo futuro.


Altre ricette che utilizzano zucca cotta al forno: questa zuppa, questi scone o questa focaccia.

E un'altra crema da spalmare a base di fagioli fasole bătută (dalla Romania).

panda (pasta fatta a mano) / panda (handmade pasta shape)

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2571
la pastasciutta con quello che c'è

The poem by George Bradley La past'asciutta con quello che c'è is included in the anthology Sustenance and Desire: A Food Lover's Anthology of Sensuality and Humor by Bascove, which is the current selection of our Cook the Books Club. (The book included a number of inspiring pieces and I may well go back to another one or two later.)

In his poem Bradley captures perfectly my approach to pasta: I sometimes plan ahead, but often I simply create a dressing with what I have available.

Dried pasta's how a cook accommodates
the facts. No artist makes much out of his
dreams but makes the most of what there is.

[If you follow the link you can read the short poem in its entirety.]

In recent years I have largely given up dried pasta in favor of my handmade pasta: I am constantly working on some shape, so I usually have freshly made pasta available. Sometimes I don't have a set plan for the dressing and mi arrangio con quello che c'è (I make do with what I have). The result is often surprisingly good.

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2496

panda resting on linen napkin from La FABBRICA del LINO

Watching young giant panda Bao Bao roll in the snow in the video from the Smithsonian's National Zoo inspired me to create a pasta shape that, in Bao Bao's honor and thanks to a comment by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill, I have called panda (in Italian the word is both singular and plural).

This short video shows my hands at work:

  

As you can see from the video, each small piece of pasta is first stretched with the thumb and then curled with the index finger.  The result is a concave triangle that reminds me of a sitting panda.

The dough I used for this pasta is the semolina dough I have described before. I recently stopped at Keith Giusto Bakery Supply (Central Milling) in Petaluma (CA) and purchased some of their organic semolina flour (soon to become available also from their online store). I love it. It makes a silky dough that is a pleasure to work with.

As usual, I recommend to start with a small amount of dough, so you can give yourself time to learn the hand movements without being overly worried about how much more dough is waiting to be processed. Once the pasta is ready, you can dress it con quello che c'è (literally, with what's there). In the case shown in the top photo, what I had was a small amount of creamy bean and roasted squash spread (recipe in an upcoming post) and some of my homemade crescenza.

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2557
panda with a light sauce (vintage Homer Laughlin "Chanticleer" plate on La FABBRICA del LINO placemat)

Burro e parmigiano (butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano) is another good option. If you like pasta, these are two ingredients you want to make sure to always keep in your refrigerator.


FTC disclosure: I have received the linens free of charge from the manufacturer, la FABBRICA del LINO. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting them on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. 


Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for panda (handmade pasta shape)

Ingredients for the pasta dough:

  • 100 g / 3.5 ounces semolina flour of good quality
  • 50 g / 1.75 ounces warm water
  • A pinch of salt

Ingredients for the dressing:

  • 2 tablespoons bean and roasted squash spread (recipe here)
  • 30 g / 1 ounce Crescenza cheese cut into small pieces

Note: I recommend weighing both flour and water because the quantities involved are small.

How to make the dough and shape the panda
Make a dough with the ingredients and knead until nice and smooth. [This post (with video) talks about how to make semolina pasta dough] Let it rest, well covered (e.g., wrapped in plastic film), for half an hour or so.

Working on the kneading board, roll the dough into a thick salami and cut it into 5-6 pieces. Keep them covered while you shape the panda. Roll each piece into a thin snake (3/8 inch / 1 cm thick), then cut into 3/8 inch / 1 cm long pieces. (Depending on the size of your hands, you may need to increase the dimensions a bit so your fingers can work comfortably.)

Keep some all-purpose flour in a dish on your working surface, so you can rub your thumb and index finger in it if/when the dough sticks to them. With your thumb, draw a piece of dough away from you, flattening it. With the help of your index finger, release the dough so it remains on your working surface. With your index finger, draw the piece of dough towards you with a gentle curling action. The result is a concave triangle that reminds me of a sitting panda.

Do not press hard or the dough will become too thin. With practice, you will find what is the right amount of pressure to apply to the dough. Lay the panda out on a lightly floured section of the kneading board (or a baking sheet lined with a cotton kitchen towel or, in my case, a linen placemat). Handle the shaped pasta gently so as not to without misshape it.

Repeat until you have used up the prepared dough.

Cook the panda and dress as you like. The following is just a suggestion.

How to cook the panda
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil, add some coarse salt, stir and then toss the panda  in it. The time needed to cook them is a bit variable, depending on the size and dryness of the pasta.

Place the bean spread in a small skillet, add a small amount of the water in which the pasta is cooking and stir to make a soft cream. Add the cheese and stir to distribute. When the pasta is almost ready, place the skillet over low heat to melt the cheese.

Taste and stop the cooking when the panda are ready. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot, stir and drain the panda. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot and stir. Drain the panda leaving a little bit of the cooking water clinging to the pasta and drop into the skillet with the sauce. Stir well over medium-low heat for about half a minute. Plate and serve immediately.

The recipe makes two small portions (served as Italian first course).

panda (handmade pasta) / IMG_2558-2
pretty in sepia

A reminder that there is a page on the blog where you can browse the complete collection of handmade pasta shapes, some of them, like the panda above, of my own creation.


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Rachel of The Crispy Cook. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


New bww logoThe photo is my contribution to edition #156 of Black and White Wednesday – A Culinary Photography Event created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook, now organized by Cinzia of Cindystar, and hosted until February 4 by me, Simona of briciole.

The photo was shot in color with my iPhone and then converted to sepia (Lightroom preset Sepia Tone).

The gallery of images contributed to the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

panda (pasta fatta a mano)

or launch the panda (pasta fatta a mano) audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

pasta, semolina flourItalian cuisine