red beet, avocado, blood orange and daikon salad / insalata di barbabietola rossa, avocado, arancia rossa e ravanelli

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red beet, avocado, orange and daikon salad / IMG_3716

before tossing
(placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

Our current Cook the Books Club selection is the memoir Where I Come From by chef Aarón Sánchez1. I didn't know him before reading the book, but a few pages into it, I realized a few year ago I had met his mother, Zarela Martinez. She had been described to me as the chef who introduced Mexican cuisine to New York. It was interesting to read her story told by her son: what an amazing woman! On July 21, 19822 the NY Times published an article by Craig Claiborne titled Memorable Dishes From a Master Mexican Chef. Here's how Ms. Martinez is introduced:

A few months ago Pierre Franey and I were invited to plan a menu and supervise the preparation of quintessentially American food that was to be served to nearly 200 French chefs visiting this country. The vast majority of these chefs had never sampled the native fare of the United States. The dishes we proposed covered the country…

We also wanted to have Mexican-style food from Texas. When we canvassed our contacts for the best cook of the region, we were told that person was, hands down, Zarela Martinez-Gabilondo. She prepared the Mexican-American segment of the meal and her contribution was memorable.

Sánchez ends a few of the book's chapters with recipes, none of which is along the lines of what I cook, so I browsed the web for a Mexican recipe that would be. Recently, almost every day I have been making a salad using fresh vegetables from the farmers' market.

vegetables / IMG_3713

ingredients for the salad fresh from the farmers' market
(placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

A few recipes I found online3 made me draw up a list of ingredients: red beets, avocado, oranges and jicama. I couldn't find the latter, so I used daikon instead and was introduced to red and purple daikon, which are sold alongside their more famous white relative. I had not roasted red beets for a while and making this salad reminded me how much I like them. I buy them in bunches with their greens and stems (foglie e coste di barbabietola rossa), which are flavorful on their own (I will share a recipe soon).

I looked for lime but instead found variegated lemon (limone). Finally, in the citrus arena, I went for blood oranges, because I like their flavor and love their color. That all the salad's ingredients are grown in California is satisfying. My current favorite cheese addition to salads and other dishes is also a California production: Point Reyes Bay Blue4.

To me salad bowls are experiment benches: I mix and dress, toss and taste and tend not to repeat twice. For the photo op above I kept the ingredients separate, but then everything is tossed and eaten in the purple juice of red beet and blood orange. The citrus (agrumi) offset beets' sweetness and the blue cheese (formaggio erborinato) gives the salad a bit of a tang, while the daikon adds some zest.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Red beet, avocado, blood orange and daikon salad

Ingredients per person:

  • 1 red beet (4-5 ounces)
  • 1/3 of a medium purple or red daikon
  • 1/2 medium blood orange
  • 1/2 medium avocado
  • 3-4 tablespoons crumbled Point Reyes Bay Blue OR other sweet blue cheese
  • 1/8 teaspoon of fine sea salt
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons / 10 ml fresh lemon juice

Note: if you purchase a bunch of red beets, cut off the greens as soon as possible, leaving about an inch / 2.5 cm of stems and consume the greens shortly afterwards.

Heat the oven to 350 F / 177 C. If you only need 1-2 red beets, I suggest you bake them together with other foods, for efficiency's sake.

Scrub the red beets well. Wrap each in foil and place on the baking sheet or baking pan. Put in the oven and roast the beets until easily pierced with a blade. Let cool, then peel.

Prepare the vegetables in amounts according to the servings needed. Cut the red beet into bite-sized pieces. Brush and rinse the daikon, then grate it using the extra-coarse side of your grater. Peel and section the blood orange. Peel and slice the avocado.

Compose the salad using the vegetables and blue cheese. Dress with the sea salt, olive oil and lemon juice, toss and enjoy.


1 The book's page on the author's website
2 NY Times published an article by Craig Claiborne
3 The recipes that inspired me: Mexican Chopped Salad with Beets and Walnut Dressing, Xec, a Jicama and Citrus Salad, and Avocado, Orange and Jicama Salad
4 Point Reyes Bay Blue cheese, "a rustic-style blue cheese with a natural rind. It is known for its mellow flavor and sweet, salted caramel finish."


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

insalata di barbabietola rossa, avocado, arancia rossa e ravanelli

or launch the insalata di barbabietola rossa, avocado, arancia rossa e ravanelli audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Claudia of Honey from Rock. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 41st edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started 13 years ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.


image from 4.bp.blogspot.comI am contributing my salad to Souper (Soup, Salad & Sammies) Sundays, a weekly event created by Cook the Books club co-host Deb of Kahakai Kitchen.

The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


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recipe: red beet, avocado, blood orange and daikon salad


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Novel Food #5: soufflé di ricotta al limone / lemony ricotta soufflé

I remember the dinner well – soup of oseille, a sole quite simply cooked in white wine sauce, a caneton à la presse, a lemon soufflé. At the last minute, fearing that the whole thing was too simple for Rex, I added caviare aux blinis. And for wine I let him give me a bottle of 1906 Montrachet, then at its prime, and, with the duck, a Clode de Bère of 1904.

Living was easy in France then…

Charles Ryder is having dinner with Rex Mottram at a restaurant in Paris called Paillard’s. He has chosen both the place and the menu. Charles would like to be able to devote his attention to the food, but Rex wants to talk. That is why he has sought Charles out. The two men talk, but they don’t communicate.

The soup was delicious after the rich blinis – hot, thin, bitter, frothy…

The sole was so simple and unobtrusive that Rex failed to notice it…

Presently he began again on the Marchmains:…

Lord and Lady Marchmain, and their children: Brideshead (Bridey), Julia, Sebastian and Cordelia. Rex’s interest is in marrying Julia. Charles became close friend with Sebastian at Oxford. The novel is Brideshead Revisited, by Evelyn Waugh. I had read it years ago, then, fairly recently, my husband and I watched the TV mini-series, starring Jeremy Irons as Charles Ryder, Lawrence Olivier as Lord Marchmain and John Gielgud as Mr. Ryder, among others. This year, a new movie came out and, though I have not yet seen it, it has prompted me to read the book again.

I closed my mind to him as best I could and gave myself to the food before me, but sentences came breaking in on my happiness, recalling me to the harsh, acquisitive world which Rex inhabited. He wanted a woman; he wanted the best on the market, and he wanted her cheap; that was what it amounted to.

At this point, the connection between Charles and the Marchmains is his old friendship with Sebastian. Later, it will be his love for Julia, now the object of Rex’s greed. 

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After the duck came a salad of watercress and chicory in a faint mist of chives. I tried to think only of the salad. I succeeded for a time in thinking only of the soufflé. Then came the cognac and the proper hour for these confidences.

Charles has a fine sensitivity. Rex has no use for nuances. Later on, Julia would say that Rex

isn’t a real person at all; he’s just a few faculties of a man highly developed; the rest simply isn’t there.

The description of the dinner of disconnect at Paillard’s inspired me to make lemon soufflé. I had never made a sweet soufflé and wanted to try. The one I chose as inspiration (in Italian), allowed me to use my homemade ricotta. (I know, I have already hinted at this: I will soon talk about it in more details in a future post.)

I had not read the recipe carefully before embarking in my interpretation of it and I paid for such lapse when I found myself with 4 beaten egg whites and a recipe that talked about the egg white. I ended up using roughly half of the beaten egg whites. Notwithstanding the little crisis, the end result was very good, its texture not quite as airy as one expects from a soufflé, in favor of a delicious creaminess contributed to by ricotta. The use of only grated zest of lemon makes for a lemony nuance, versus a strong lemon flavor. This way, one can taste the ricotta.

Ingredients:

  • 150 g ricotta (a bit more than 5 oz.)
  • zest of 3 organic lemons
  • 4 egg yolks
  • one egg white
  • 1/3 cup vanilla sugar
  • 1/2 tablespoon corn starch

IMGP6659

Preheat the oven to 400 F and pour one inch of water in a baking pan. In a bowl, whisk ricotta, lemon zest, egg yolks, sugar and corn starch until creamy. Beat the egg white until stiff peaks form and fold it into the cream. Pour into four 3″ ramekins and bake in the pan for 15-20 minutes, until soufflés are golden. Because I used two egg whites instead of one, my soufflés puffed up more than the recipe desired, and, since I served them cold, as the recipe suggests, signs of deflation are clear on the surface. I served the soufflés paired with my most recent version of sorbetto alle more (blackberry sorbet). Charles Ryder would have appreciated.    

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This is my contribution to the fifth edition of Novel Food, a seasonal literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I concocted last year and have been co-hosting ever since.

This post contains my portion of the roundup and a link to Lisa’s portion.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

soufflé di ricotta al limone

or launch the soufflé di ricotta al limone audio file [mp3].