Persian herb and greens frittata / frittata persiana di verdure ed erbe

Persian herb and greens frittata / IMG_3163

green to celebrate spring
(placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

Our Cook the Books Club selection this time brings us to Ireland (Irlanda), yet the flavors are those of Iran (whose cuisine we savored also in a recent edition1). The novel Pomegranate Soup, by Marsha Mehran2 (zuppa di melograno), follows the adventures of the three Aminpour sisters, who escape from political turmoil in their native country to the UK and ultimately settle in the small Irish town of Ballinacroagh, where they open a small café serving dishes from their home country.

The novel's cast includes the sisters' landlady, the town's priest, a young man with a passion for astronomy and other colorful characters. The author expertly weaves past events into the present narrative, so that as the story progresses we learn what pushed the sisters to run away from their home.

Marjan, the eldest Aminpour sister, is the main force behind Babylon Café: she watches as many locals come to appreciate the dishes she creates, their appealing aromas and comforting flavors. The book mentions many dishes and includes a recipe at the end of each chapter. I was particularly intrigued by the description of "a good apple khoresh, a stew made from tart apples, chicken and split peas" (page 60 of the hardback edition), but while I was searching for a recipe for that, I read about Kuku Sabzi, a kind of herb frittata traditionally prepared for Nowruz, the Iranian New Year that is celebrated on the spring equinox. I am a lover of greens, so I decided to try this recipe. I read a number of renditions3 and below is a description of what I made.

In terms of greens, I went with what I found fresh at the farmers' market, namely spinach (spinaci) and dill (aneto). Parsley, thyme and lovage (prezzemolo, timo e levistico) come from my garden. The idea is that you can use greens and herbs you like and have available. A different combination means a different flavor, so this is a recipe that can be repeated without becoming boring. 

When I tasted the first bite of my rendition, my first reaction was: why have I not tried making this before?

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Persian herb and greens frittata (Kuku Sabzi)

Ingredients:

  • 4 1/2 ounces / 130 g leek, white and light green portion, clean weight (set aside the dark green portion to make broth or stock)
  • 4 tablespoons / 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 2 bunches / 14 ounces / 400 g fresh spinach
  • 2 cups of finely chopped fresh herbs: in my case mostly dill (thick stems removed), some sprigs of parsley, leaves of a handful of fresh thyme sprigs and 2 sprigs of lovage
  • 5 large eggs from pastured poultry
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

Cut the leek in half lengthwise and slice into 1/8 inch / 3 mm half-moons. Rinse well in a colander, then place in a bowl and fill it with cold water. With your hands, swirl the leek pieces to clean them well, then scoop them out of the water with a sieve or slotted spoon and drain them in a colander.

Warm up a 10-inch / 25 cm skillet over medium heat, then add 2 tablespoons / 30 ml of the olive oil. Add the leeks, stir well and cook for a couple of minutes. Cover the skillet and cook on low heat until the leeks are soft (12-15 minutes), stirring every now and then, making sure nothing burns. Transfer the leeks to a plate and clean the skillet.

Wash the spinach carefully and drain. Discard the roots and thicker stems and chop the rest finely. This is a bit tedious but it makes cooking easier, because the amount of eggs is small with respect to the amount of greens.

mezzaluna and chopped herbs / IMG_3156

chopping herbs finely

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, the salt, pepper, and turmeric. Add the cooked leeks, the chopped spinach and herbs and mix everything well. A silicone spatula works well for this step, which requires patience.

Heat the broiler: if your oven allows it, use the low setting; otherwise, move the oven rack down one level.

Heat again the skillet and pour into it the remaining 2 tablespoons / 30 ml of the olive oil, then swirl to coat. Empty the bowl into the skillet and use the spatula to spread the mixture evenly across. Cover the skillet and cook the frittata on low heat until the bottom is just set: check it after 8 minutes and estimate the remaining cooking time.

Uncover the skillet and broil, watching carefully, until the top is set, 1-2 minutes. Let the frittata cool slightly, then slide it onto a platter and serve.

Serves 4-8

Persian herb and greens frittata / IMG_3158

why have I learned about this dish only now?

The intense green of this dish nicely points at the coming spring season. The flavor is a treat for lovers of greens.


1 My recent post featuring another Persian-inspired recipe: eggplant and yellow split pea stew
2 The book introduction on the author's website
3 Some recipes: on Bon Appetit (with useful video), the Kitchn, the Splendid Table


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

frittata persiana di verdure ed erbe

or launch the frittata persiana di verdure ed erbe audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by me, Simona of briciole. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


Small_NFlogoThis is also my second contribution to the 38th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started 12 years ago and that I continue to host.

 The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


frittata, spinachdillparsleythymelovageeggsPersian cuisine

passato di carote e zucchine al levistico / carrot and zucchini soup with lovage

lovage levistico

my exhuberant lovage

In a previous post I mentioned the beautiful lovage (levistico) that I have in my herb garden.The plant is now over four feet tall and looks simply gorgeous. The photo shows just a detail of the copious foliage.

The need to use some chicken stock from a batch I had previously defrosted and the presence in my vegetable bin of two beautiful, dark green zucchine (zucchini) from the farmers’ market suggested the word “soup” to me, and I heeded the suggestion. Before starting to make the soup, I cut a stem of lovage.

I can’t say I measured or weighed the ingredients: I just went with what I had in the quantity I saw fit. I warmed up some olive oil in a saucepan and added to it:

  • half a medium onion (cipolla), chopped
  • a small shallot (scalogno), chopped
  • a celery rib (costa di sedano), chopped
  • two carrots (carote), sliced (6-7 oz.)
  • the lovage stem (leaves removed), chopped

The lovage stem was fairly thick and about 8″ long. While I was chopping the deep green stem, I was reminded that lovage has an intense flavor: “a little goes a long way.”

After all the vegetables had been added to the saucepan, I sprinkled some ground cumin (cumino), stirred well, put the lid on the and let the vegetables cook until soft, stirring occasionally. I then added:

  • the chicken stock
  • the two zucchini, sliced (an estimated 12-13 oz.)

I brought to a boil and let the soup simmer, covered, until the zucchini were cooked.

With the precious help of my immersion blender, the vegetable mix turned into a creamy soup (passato). The consistency was to my liking, i.e., rather thick. I tasted the soup to adjust sale e pepe (salt and pepper) and my taste buds told me that the flavor of lovage was just right: distinct but not overbearing. Had I needed a bit more, I would have added some of the leaves I had set aside.

DSC_0006

For the photo op, I put some soup in glass ramekins and accompanied it with some special crackers whose recipe (which I have already made three times) will be the subject of a future post.

I really enjoyed the passato di zucchine, so much so that yesterday, at the farmers’ market, I bought some zucchini with the stated intention of making it again. Having lovage in my herb garden means that I can experiment with it any time I wish.

Whb242 This is my contribution to edition #242 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn’s Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook.

This post has the roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

passato di zucchine al levistico

or launch the passato di zucchine al levistico  audio file [mp3].

 

chèvre fresco fatto in casa e levistico / homemade fresh chèvre flavored with lovage

fresh chèvre spread over olive bread

In my cheese making, I like to alternate between fresh and aged cheeses. Fresh cheeses have the advantage of being ready for consumption within a short time frame and so they balance out the need for longer waiting periods required by aged cheeses.

A few days ago, after getting a quart of fresh goat milk, I decided it was time to use the chèvre direct-set packets I had in my freezer. I added to it a quart of cow milk and followed these instructions to make the cheese. This is as easy as it gets in terms of making cheese at home. The result is a creamy cheese that begs to be used in creative combination — besides enjoyed on its own, spread over homemade bread.

Being very familiar with this fresh chèvre, which comes also in delicious flavored versions, I decided to pick something from my small herb garden to flavor my product. A plant that is doing very well in it is lovage (levistico or sedano di monte, literally: mountain celery), an herb about which Deborah Madison recently wrote a nice article. The name lovage (Levisticum officinale) has an interesting etymology, as you can read on this page (Liguria is an Italian region). And here you can read a few more interesting pieces of information, like the fact that, as the title of the article says, “a little lovage goes a long way.”

Lovage

my lovage plant

Lovage’s flavor is indeed pronounced, so you want to use your taste buds to decide how much to add. I did not measure precisely my two ingredients: in a custard cup, I mixed with a fork about 1/4 cup of chèvre and a scant tablespoon of finely shredded young leaves of lovage. I then spread the flavored cheese over slices of my homemade sourdough olive bread (pane alle olive).

I am planning to devote a post to my sourdough bread baking activities, so you will read more about the bread in the photo soon.

Weekend Herb Blogging #236 logo This is another contribution to edition #236 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn’s Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and hosted this week by yours truly. This post contains the roundup of the event.

Cheesepalooza-BadgeUpdate (September 2012). Valerie of A Canadian Foodie has launched a year long event called Cheesepalooza, which encourages people to take up home cheese making via monthly challenges of increasing complexity. The cheese chosen for the second month is basic chèvre and I submitted my previous experience with this lovely simple fresh cheese. This post contains the roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

chèvre fresco fatto in casa e levistico

or launch the chèvre fresco fatto in casa e levistico  audio file [mp3].