summer side dish: zucchini, carrots and tomatoes / contorno estivo: zucchine, carote e pomodorini

jump to Recipe

summer side dish: zucchini, carrots and tomatoes / IMG_3273

summer on the plate
(napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

The Twenty-Seventh Letter of the Alphabet by Kim Adrian1 is the most engrossing memoir I have ever read and one I heartily recommend. The writing is delicate and evocative. The author tells her difficult, often deeply painful, story through vignettes organized in glossary format. The vignettes work like pieces of a puzzle: as the book proceeds, the reader reconstructs the lives of the main characters—the author, her parents and her sister. Adrian's husband and children also play an important role, one of hope, as we see that she has been able to create a completely different experience for her family.

Ultimately, the glossary’s imposed order serves less to organize emotional chaos than to expose difficult but necessary truths, such as the fact that some problems simply can’t be solved, and that loving someone doesn’t necessarily mean saving them.

In the book we see the author developing a relationship with her father when she is an adult and he's become sober. Her mother's mental illness however, prevents the establishing of an even keel and in the end, long distance is what allows a kind of truce to take hold. 

The book has some references to food, but the part that inspired me is the mother's skill as a gardener, which never fails to surprise the author and the reader, appearing as it does against a background of mental illness.

Vegetable still life with zucchini tomatoes carrots onion

the ingredients, fresh from the farmers' market
(napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

My mother was not a gardener, though she always had a pot of basil (basilico) in the summer, a tradition which I have tried to maintain. Last year I was particularly successful and my basil plant lasted until last month, when I planted a new one. The other ingredients in the photo above come from the farmers' market, though I should say that for the last couple of months I have also been eating lettuce (lattuga) from my garden and have been supplying my husband with a variety of leafy greens (chard, kale and tatsoi) in small quantities. 

Zucchini always make me think of my mother: she cooked them in various ways when in season, but as children, neither my brother nor I liked the vegetable. In time, my taste changed (while my brother's didn't), so at least I gave my mother satisfaction when she brought a zucchini dish to the table.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Summer side dish: zucchini, carrots and tomatoes

Ingredients:

  • 3 ounces /  85 g carrot
  • 3 tablespoons / 45 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 ounces / 56 g spring onion2, red or white, diced small
  • 1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon Harissa spice mix (depending on brand and personal preference)
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 8-9 ounces /225-255 g zucchini (I particularly like the Costata Romanesco variety) 
  • 5 ounces cherry plum or grape tomatoes
  • 3-4 basil leaves, chiffonade
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
  • 3/4 ounce / 20 g freshly grated cheese of choice, optional: if you omit it, the dish is vegan

Scrub carrot(s) well and scrape the surface to remove a thin layer of skin, then grate using the extra-coarse side of a hand grater.

Warm up the olive oil in 10-inch/25-cm skillet.

Add the onion, lower the heat and stir, then after 1 minute, add the grated carrot and stir. After 2 minutes, sprinkle the harissa spice mix, stir well and cover. Cook on low heat for 6 minutes, until the onion is soft.

In the meantime, trim the zucchini, then grate using the extra-coarse side of a hand grater.

Uncover the skillet, add the garlic, stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the zucchini, turn up the heat to medium, stir well and cook for 1 minute. Cover, lower the heat and cook for 3 minutes.

In the meantime, quarter the tomatoes.

Uncover the skillet, add the tomatoes and stir. Cover and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the zucchini are tender. Sprinkle the basil and the sea salt, stir well. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the cheese on the vegetables and cover.

Serve warm.

Serves 2-3

IMG_3270

Bring the skillet to the table or transfer to a plate and serve

I have made this dish many times (most recently last night) and a couple of times I have substituted a chopped peeled peach for the tomatoes. Either way, this dish is delicious.


1 The novel's page on the author's website which includes excerpts of reviews
2 A video explaining the difference between spring onions and green onions (a.k.a., scallions)


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

contorno estivo: zucchine, carote e pomodorini

or launch the contorno estivo: zucchine, carote e pomodorini audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 39th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started 13 years ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


onionzucchinicarrotside dishtomatoesItalian cuisine

stuffed zucchini / zucchine ripiene

stuffed zucchini / DSC_8402

a delicious pair on a plate (napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

The June-July selection of the Cook the Books club was Garlic and Sapphires, The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise by Ruth Reichl1. The author is well known for her sparkling prose and engaging way of talking about food—the latter skill honed during her career as food critic, which is the subject of this memoir. Readers interested in restaurants in NYC and the life of a restaurant reviewer will find the book entertaining. To be honest, I am neither. I think that her first memoir, Tender at the Bone, includes her best writing. While reading the book, the word “stuffed” kept coming to mind, blinking like a neon sign. I took that as my inspiration and was aided in my recipe development by the appearance at the farmers’ market of beautiful round zucchini that just begged to be stuffed.

Ronde de Nice zucchini / IMG_1108

Luna Farm’s Ronde de Nice zucchini2 a French heirloom variety
(zucchina tonda di Nizza)

I headed their plea and chose to use ground pork meat (carne di maiale macinata) as the main ingredient for the stuffing. My husband participated eagerly in tasting the various renditions. I realize it is customary to complain about the abundance of zucchini and/or the length of their season: both are a plus for me, prompting me to come up with new ways of preparing them.

Print-friendly version of briciole’s recipe for Stuffed zucchini

Ingredients:

  • 2 round zucchini, about 12 ounces / 340 g, possibly organic
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 1/2 ounces / 42 g fresh onion, finely diced
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
  • 1/4 teaspoon Harissa spice mix3
  • 2 ounces / 56 g ground pork
  • 3/4 ounce / 20 g sliced prosciutto crudo, cut into small pieces
  • fine sea salt, to taste
  • 1 ounce / 28 g cheese (pecorino or sharp cheddar), grated

Cut the top of each zucchini and set aside. With the help of a melon baller, scoop out the pulp from each zucchini, leaving a thickness of about 1/4 inch / 6 mm. Finely dice the pulp.

preparing stuffed zucchini / IMG_1129

a melon baller is your friend for this task

Precook the zucchini by steaming them (body and top) until just tender. Set aside.

Warm up a small skillet and add the olive oil. Add the onion, stir and cook on gentle heat until translucent and soft, stirring often. Add the garlic and stir. After 1 minute sprinkle the Harissa spice mix and stir. After 1 minute, add the pork and stir while at the same time crumbling the meat with a fork.

When the meat is no longer pink, add the diced pulp and stir well. After 2-3 minutes, cover the skillet and cook for 5 minutes, then remove the lid, add the prosciutto and stir. Continue cooking until the zucchini pulp is soft and the water released has evaporated.

Adjust salt, give it a final stir and take off the heat. Let cool, then add the cheese and stir well.

Heat the oven to 375 F / 190 C.

Spoon half the stuffing into each zucchini, pressing gently to make it all fit. Place the zucchini on a baking sheet lined with a silicon baking mat or parchment paper and put the top on. Place the baking sheet in the oven. Bake for about 15 minutes.

Serve immediately.

Serves 1-2

stuffed zucchini / DSC_8375

the view from above (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

This is a simple and delicious recipe for zucchini. It requires a bit of preparation, but the result repays the effort with interest.


1 The book’s page on the author’s website
2 Ronde de Nice zucchini
3 The Harissa spice mix I use


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

zucchine ripiene

or launch the zucchine ripiene audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Claudia of Honey From Rock. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the napkin free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


zucchiniporkcheeseItalian cuisine

mild chili oil / olio al pepe di Sichuan

California chili and Sichuan pepper berries / IMG_0975

pretty in red (napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

While I was reading the current selection of the Cook the Books club, Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China by Fuchsia Dunlop1 we spent a couple of days in Ashland, OR, to watch three plays at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. One of my stops during our visit was The Spice and Tea Exchange2, a favorite store, where I like to explore shelves of spices (spezie), custom blends, and teas. In the pepper section, a glass jar labeled Szechuan Pepper Berry introduced me to the spice of the book's title. Of course, I bought some.

Sichuan pepper, as you can see from the photo, does not look like (and is not even related to) the typical black or white peppercorns (grani di pepe) we buy and put in our pepper mill: they are the husks of a berry.

For my first experience using Sichuan pepper, I chose a recipe with mushrooms3 and purchased a selection of them plus New Zealand spinach4 (a vegetable I like a lot) at the Downtown Berkeley farmers' market. The dish was good and I got to experience the tingling of my lips that is the hallmark symptom of having eaten a Sichuan pepper-laced dish. 

I then looked around for more ideas and was intrigued by recipes for Chinese chili oil (Chinese chili sauce), which is oil infused with chili and other spices. I made a mild version, using a California chile leftover from my recent experiment with mole poblano5 (shown in the top photo), rather than hot peppers (peperoncini piccanti) and put my Italian touch on it by using olive oil (olio d'oliva). I also kept it simple with just the Sichuan pepper as spice (plus sesame seeds, semi di sesamo). The oil is of a bright red color.

salad dressed with chili oil / DSC_8296

a red dash of color and flavor (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

The recipe that mostly inspired me6 blends chili oil and a vinegar and soy sauce mix to make a vinaigrette: I left the two separate so I can apportion each depending on the vegetable I am dressing: for example, a bit more vinegar on farm-fresh butter lettuce, less on roasted asparagus (photo below). 

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for (mild) Chili oil

Ingredients:

  • 1 dried California chile
  • 2 teaspoons Sichuan pepper (berries)
  • 1/4 cup / 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil OR 2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil and 2 tablespoons / 30 ml avocado oil
  • 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
  • 2 tablespoons / 30 ml rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons / 30 ml tamari
  • 1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

Remove stem and seeds from the chile and break it into pieces. Pick out any stems from the Sichuan pepper.

Toast both in a dry skillet until fragrant (shake the skillet often ensure nothing burns).

Place the chile and pepper in a mortar and grind until the chile is broken into tiny pieces and the pepper is reduced to a powder. Transfer to a small bowl.

Pour oil(s) in a small saucepan and heat until it reaches about 230 F / 110 C. Immediately pour the hot oil over the chile and pepper mixture: it will should sizzle. Let it cool for 5 minutes then add to it the sesame seeds, stir and set aside.

In a small bowl, combine the vinegars, tamari, molasses and stir well. Set aside until ready to use.

Stir both components of the dressing before using and add each to taste, tossing to coat vegetables. Start with a small amount and add to taste, as the flavors involved are quite pronounced. I have dressed butter lettuce and roasted asparagus with it and liked the result a lot. In both cases, optionally sprinkle more sesame seed on top of the vegetables.

Store chili oil and vinegar/tamari (in small glass jars) in the refrigerator until needed. Take them out of the refrigerator to bring them back to room temperature before using.

roasted asparagus with chili oil / DSC_8299

a bit of zing makes roasted asparagus shine

I had heard praise for our club's selection and was therefore eager to read it: I cannot say it captured my attention with either writing style or content. Still, I am grateful to the book for making me try a new ingredient, a great spice that will keep its place in my cabinet and that I am looking forward to using in numerous other dishes.


1 The book's page on the author's website
2 The Spice and Tea Exchange in Ashland, OR
3 Sichuan Wild Mushroom Sauté with New Zealand Spinach
4 New Zealand spinach (not a true spinach, but similar in flavor and usage)
5 Recipe of Mole poblano
6 Sichuan-Style Asparagus and Tofu Salad Recipe


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

olio al pepe di Sichuan

or launch the olio al pepe di Sichuan audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


Fr2018-150I am also contributing to the May edition of Foodies Read the reading/cooking event hosted by Heather of Based on a True Story.

Visit the linkup page to see what others have read and cooked.


Souper Sundayslogo And I am contributing my butter lettuce salad and asparagus salad to Souper (Soup, Salad & Sammies) Sundays, a weekly event created by Cook the Books club co-host Deb of Kahakai Kitchen.

The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the linens free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


oilchilessaladvinaigretteChinese cuisine

broccoli al Parmigiano-Reggiano (à la Angelo Pellegrini)

broccoli gratin a la Pellegrini / DSC_7828

a simple, flavorful side dish (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)

The current selection of our Cook the Books Club is The Unprejudiced Palate: Classic Thoughts on Food and the Good Life by Angelo Pellegrini1 (1948). At the beginning, the author declares what his book is about:

I concluded that what America needs is not another cookbook, but a book on bread and wine in relation to life.

As Greg Atkinson states in his West Coast Soup:

[Pellegrini's] book did not provide any recipes per se. Instead, it provided an alternate perspective on cooking.

Such perspective is profoundly influenced by his Italian heritage and his upbringing as the son of recent immigrants to the US (he went on to become a professor of English at the University of Washington).

I thoroughly enjoyed the book: the language, the tone, the stories. Pellegrini's measured attitude makes the reading always interesting—even when I may not agree with him. I know that in part that was due to my comparing my experience with his: I am also Italian and an immigrant—though I moved to the US for different reasons and as an adult.

broccoli at the farmers' market / IMG_4396

I love broccoli

Though it contains no detailed recipes, Pellegrini's book describes a lot of dishes. One that caught my attention is a simple side dish (contorno) of broccoli boiled, then sautéed in olive oil (ripassati in padella) and finally gratinéed with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Besides broccoli, the dish requires ingredients always available in a typical Italian kitchen: olive oil, garlic, lemon and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

There are a few things about which I am opinionated: Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of them. I buy a chunk and grate it as needed, right before it is needed. I am happy to report that Angelo Pellegrini and I are in perfect agreement on this topic:

Screen Shot 2016-02-25 at 8.02.31 PM
Exactly!

broccoli gratin a la Pellegrini

a snowfall of Parmigiano-Reggiano (the dish before baking)

The recipe below is based on Pellegrini's description, with steaming taking the place of boiling and with the actual quantities suggested by my personal taste and some testing and tasting I did.

Screen Shot 2016-03-28 at 2.31.15 PM
Feel free to adjust the quantities to your liking, keeping in mind that you want to taste the various ingredients.

Printer-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Broccoli al Parmigiano-Reggiano

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound 2 ounces / 510 g broccoli, preferably organic
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large or 2 small garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon / 20 ml Meyer lemon juice, freshly squeezed
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • A pinch of freshly ground black pepper
  • 3/4 ounce / 21 g freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Wash and cut broccoli heads into florets, halving large florets lengthwise. Peel the tough outer layer of the stalk(s), quarter if very thick, and cut crosswise into coins. Steam until half-way cooked, then transfer to a bowl. (The cooking time depends on the freshness of the broccoli and on your personal preference in terms of softness.)

Heat the oven to 400 F / 205 C.

Cut broccoli into smaller pieces (i.e., cut florets in half lengthwise, cut long stems in half crosswise).

Warm up the olive oil in a skillet. Peel and quarter the large garlic clove (halve the small cloves). Remove the green sprout inside, if present. Add the garlic to the oil and toss. Lightly fry the garlic in the oil for one minute, then add the broccoli to the skillet. Stir well and cook until the broccoli is done to your liking, stirring often.

Remove the skillet for the heat. Remove the garlic and discard. Season the broccoli with lemon juice, salt and pepper, and stir well. (I am not sure whether Pellegrini stirred the broccoli after adding the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano: I decided to distribute it on the surface.)

Transfer the broccoli to a 9 1/2-inch / 24 cm glass or ceramic deep dish pie plate (1 3/4 inch / 4.5 cm deep) and arrange it to form an even layer.

Distribute grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on the broccoli. Place the plate in the oven and bake for about 10 minutes. Take out of the oven and serve.

Serves 4.

Besides hot out of the oven, I like this broccoli dish also at room temperature.


1 A nice article on Angelo Pellegrini


CtBThis is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by me, Simona of briciole. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)

The roundup of the event.


Small_NFlogoThis is also my second contribution to the 26th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.


FTC disclosure: I have received the placemat free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

broccoli al Parmigiano-Reggiano

or launch the broccoli al Parmigiano-Reggiano audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

side dishbroccoliparmigiano-reggianogarliclemonItalian cuisine