roasted cauliflower with za’atar / cavolfiore arrosto con za’atar

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

it looks plain, it tastes deep

When I walk or ride my bike around Berkeley, I stop at some of the Little Free Libraries on my way. In one of them I found The Cost of Living: Early and Uncollected Stories1 by Mavis Gallant2. I didn't know the author, but the blurb on the back cover made me curious, so I put the book in my backpack. The short stories have a common characteristic: tension, sometimes quite high, runs just under the surface and reveals itself in geysers of emotion. I enjoyed the stories in varying degrees, finding some more accomplished than others.

The story "Acceptance of Their Ways," set in a boarding house (pensione) on the Italian Riviera, opens on three women at the dinner table: they dislike and at the same time need each other to prop up their rather empty lives. Gallant describes in telling details objects, movements, expressions. The story wavers a bit in the point-of-view, but kept my attention to the end. Lily Littel, the story's protagonist, with her double life — the dull one led on the Italian side of the border, the wild one led on the French side, in Nice (Nizza) — gave me the idea of spicing up a cauliflower I had bought at the farmers' market.

cauliflower at the farmers' market / IMG_2518-2

beauties on display

There is something irresistible in a freshly harvested head of cauliflower. And why should I resist its appeal? It's much easier to lift it and put it in my shopping basket: I can always find a way to prepare it.

White cauliflower is by far the most common variety. Nowadays it is relatively easy to find also purple (viola), golden and green varieties; bicolor ones are rarer. Last fall I found one variety in which florets had purple stems and white tops, then most recently I found one blushing purple on its surface.

cauliflower floret with a hint of purple / IMG_5343

blushing purple

While I am perfectly happy with a plate of steamed cauliflower dressed with avocado and lemon juice, I prefer roasting it. When considering how to spice up cauliflower for Lily Littel, I reached for a recently purchased jar of za'atar. "Za'atar is an Arabic word used to describe both a specific herb and a tangy blend of herbs and spices."3 "Used in Levantine cuisine, both the herb and spice mixture are popular throughout the Middle East."4 Za'atar can be made at home, something I will try after I finish the jar I have.

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

a three-ingredient side dish (contorno)

I made the dish several times to get the balance of the three-ingredients right and below is the result.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Roasted cauliflower with za'atar

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 pounds / 680 g cauliflower, preferably organic, to obtain 1 1/4 pounds / 570 g clean
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml + 2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml za'atar spice mix

Preheat the oven to 400 F / 205 C.

Wash the cauliflower and cut it into bite-sized florets. If the leaves are present, discard the tough outer ones, but preserve the tender, inner ones. Peel the tough outer layer of the stalk and cut crosswise into coins.

Place cauliflower in a bowl, drizzle 1 tablespoon / 15 ml of extra-virgin olive oil on top and stir well to coat. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat and place in the oven. Roast until tender. Check after 20 minutes and roast a few more minutes, as needed.

za'atar with olive oil / IMG_5343

za'atar with olive oil before stirring

In the meantime, pour the remaining 2 tablespoons / 30 ml of extra-virgin olive oil in a serving bowl and add the za'atar. Stir to make a paste.

When the cauliflower is cooked, transfer to the bowl with the za'atar paste and stir well to coat. (Do not skimp on this step: you want the dressing to get into the cauliflower's crannies.)

Serve immediately.

Serves 3-4

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

a simply satisfying side dish

I don't expect to get tired of eating this dish.


1 The Cost of Living: Early and Uncollected Stories (2009) on the publisher's website and on google books
2 Mavis Gallant (wikipedia)
3 Source: Chowhound
4 Source: wikipedia
5 The brand I use includes sumac berries, toasted sesame, salt, cumin, thyme, oregano and marjoram.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar

or launch the cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


Small_NFlogoThis is my second contribution to the 29th edition of Novel Food, the literary/culinary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I started some time ago and that I continue to host.

The roundup of the event.

 


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cauliflowerza'atarside dishgluten freeMiddle Eastern

Newrule

cavolfiore arrosto con za'atar

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

sapore speziato

Ingredienti:

  • 680 g di cavolfiore, possibilmente bio, 570 g pulito
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml + 2 cucchiai / 30 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml di za'atar1 (misto di spezie tipico della cucina medio-orientale2)

Riscaldare il forno a 205 C.

Lavate il cavolfiore e tagliatelo in cimette. Se ha le foglie, scartate quelle esterne, ma tenete quelle tenere interne. Pelate il gambo e tagliatelo a rondelle.

Mettete il cavolfiore in un'insalatiera, spruzzatelo con 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva e mescolatelo bene. Distribuitelo su una placca da forno foderata con un tappetino da forno di silicone facendo un singolo strato e infornate. Cuocetelo fino a che sia morbido. Controllate la cottura dopo 20 minuti e cuocete alcuni altri minuti, come necessario.

Nel frattempo versate gli altri 2 cucchiai / 30 ml di di olio extra-vergine di oliva in un'insalatiera e aggiungere lo za'atar. Mescolate per fare una crema.

Quando il cavolfiore è pronto, trasferitelo nell'insalatiera col condimento e mescolatelo bene in modo che il condimento raggiunga bene gli spazi delle cimette.

Servite immediatamente (3-4 porzioni).

roasted cauliflower with za'atar / IMG_5343

contorno saporito (con tre soli ingredienti)

1 Za'atar: wikipedia
2 Quello che uso io contiene sommacco, semi di sesamo tostati, sale, cumino, timo, origano e maggiorana.

 

recipe: roasted cauliflower with za’atar


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zuppa di spinaci / spinach soup

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

spinach soup / IMG_2966

a soup bright in color and flavor (cranberry-flax ciabatta by Beck’s Bakery,
linen napkin from La FABBRICA del LINO)

The ninth stop of our World Culinary ABC1 is Egypt (Egitto). My original plan was to make ful medames2 again, this time using the traditional small fava beans, which I found in a newly discovered store in the Bay Area. Then two things happened: 1) I read about Moloukhiya3 soup, and 2) my spring CSA share at Redwood Roots Farm4 started. 

This soup features the leaves of a type of jute (Corchorus olitorius) and is traditional not only of Egypt but also of other countries in the Middle East and Africa. According to wikipedia, moloukhiya “is rather bitter, and when boiled, the resulting liquid is a thick, highly mucilaginous broth.”

One of the recipes I read5 states that spinach or chard can be used instead of the original moloukhiya leaves. Freshly harvested spinach leaves were part of my CSA share, so the decision was easy to make. The soup I made pays homage to the tradition, but is not traditional. In particular, the broth is not thick.

chopped fresh spinach leaves / IMG_2960

fresh spinach from Redwood Roots Farm chopped and ready for the pot

Among the many recipes I read, the one that inspired me most was the simplest one6, in part because it resonated with my minimalist style and in part because I had the freshest spinach on hand and wanted to make their flavor speak for itself.

The soup comes together in a matter of minutes and it sparkles in terms of both color and flavor (colore e sapore). It is nutritious, yet light. In between CSA shares, I made it once with a mix of other leafy greens, mostly from my vegetable patch: rainbow chard, Red Russian kale and collard greens. I liked the result (takes a bit longer to cook), but prefer the spinach version.

garlic cooked in olive oil / IMG_2959

fragrant garlic (aglio)

Print-friendly version of briciole’s recipe for Spinach soup

Ingredients:

  • 12 ounces / 340 g fresh spinach leaves
  • 4 cups / 1 quart / 950 ml chicken broth, possibly homemade; better yet a blend of chicken broth and stock; I use my homemade chicken broth/stock7
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • Fine sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly squeezed lemon juice

Wash spinach leaves carefully, drain and chop.

In the meantime, bring the broth to a boil in a soup pot. Drop the spinach leaves into the broth and stir. Cover the pot, bring the soup back to a gentle boil and cook for 3 minutes or so. Taste the spinach: it should melt in your mouth. Cook longer if necessary. When ready, remove from the heat.

When the soup is almost ready, warm up the olive oil in a small skillet. Add a pinch of fine sea salt to the minced garlic and work it a bit more with the blade to make almost a paste. Drop the garlic in the hot oil and stir well. Cook on gentle heat until the garlic is golden and fragrant, stirring frequently.

Pour two ladlefuls of soup into the hot skillet. It will sizzle. Stir a couple of times and pour the soup back into the pot. Repeat this step, stirring well so all the olive oil and garlic mixes with the soup.

Taste and adjust salt. (I don’t give a specific amount because it depends on how salty the broth/stock is.)

Ladle into prepared bowls, squeeze a bit of lemon juice into each and stir briefly. Serve with lightly toasted, thinly sliced bread or pita. (Serendipitously, the day I made the soup the first time, I brought home some cranberry-flax ciabatta from Beck’s Bakery8: they make a pretty pair, as the top photo shows.)

Serves 4-5.

1 The World Culinary ABC kick-off post.
2 My post on ful medames.
3 Mulukhiyah or Moloukhiya or Molokhia, etc.
4 Redwood Roots Farm
5 Moloukhia soup recipe
6 Molokhia soup recipe
7 Details in this post

8 Beck’s Bakery


FTC disclosure: I have received the linen napkin free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting the product on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


I contribute my spinach soup to the 9th installment of the Abbecedario culinario mondiale (World Culinary ABC), an event organized by Trattoria MuVarA that will bring us to visit 27 countries of the world using the alphabet as guide. I like Il Cairo (Egypt) is hosted by Terry of Crumpets & Co.

The list of recipes contributed to the event and their slide show.


Souper SundayslogoI am contributing my soup also to Souper (Soup, Salad & Sammies) Sundays, a weekly event created by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen.

The roundup of the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post

zuppa di spinaci

or launch the zuppa di spinaci audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

spinachsoupEgyptian cuisine

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Newrule

zuppa di spinaci

spinach soup / IMG_2966

una zuppa dal colore e sapore brillanti (ciabatta con cranberry e semi di lino di Beck’s Bakery, tovagliolo di lino de La FABBRICA del LINO)

La nona tappa dell’Abbecedario culinario mondiale1 è l’Egitto. Il mio progetto originale era quello di rifare ful medames2 usando stavolta le fave piccole tradizionali che ho trovato in un negozio scoperto da poco nella Bay Area. Poi sono successe due cose: 1) ho letto delle note sulla zuppa di Molokhia3 e 2) ho cominciato a ricevere la mia cassettina primaverile presso Redwood Roots Farm. 

Per fare questa zuppa, che è tradizionale non solo in Egitto ma anche in altri paesi del Medio Oriente e dell’Africa, si utilizzano le foglie di un tipo di juta (Corchorus olitorius). Secondo wikipedia, la molokhia “è puttosto amara e quando viene bollita il brodo è denso e mucillaginoso.”

Una delle ricette che ho letto4 sostiene che si possono usare spinaci o bietola come sostituti delle foglie di molokhia. Dal momento che nella mia cassettina c’erano spinaci da taglio freschi, decidere di provare è stato semplice. La zuppa che ho preparato io fa omaggio alla tradizione, ma non è tradizionale. In particolare, il brodo non è denso.

chopped fresh spinach leaves / IMG_2960

spinaci da taglio freschi (Redwood Roots Farm) tagliati

Tra le molte ricette che ho letto quella che mi ha ispirato maggiormente è quella più semplice5, in parte perché concorda col mio stile minimalista e in parte perché avevo degli spianci da taglio freschissimi e volevo far risaltare il loro sapore naturale.

La zuppa, nutriente e leggera, si prepara in pochi minuti e brilla sia in colore che in sapore. Tra una cassettina e la successiva, ho fatto la zuppa con un misto di altre verdure, la maggior parte dal mio orticello: bietola colorata, cavolo riccio Red Russian e collard greens (un tipo di Brassica che non credo esista in Italia). Il risultato (che richiede un tempo più lungo di cottura) mi è piaciuto, ma preferisco la versione con gli spinaci.

garlic cooked in olive oil / IMG_2959

aglio fragrante

Ingredienti:

  • 340 g spinaci da taglio freschi
  • 950 ml brodo di pollo, possibilmente fatto in casa6
  • 1 cucchiaio / 15 ml olio extra-vergine di oliva
  • 2 cucchiaio di aglio tritato
  • Sale marino fino, q.b.
  • Succo fresco di limone

Lavare bene gli  spinaci, scolare e tagliare grossolanamente.

Nel frattempo portare a bollore il brodo in una pentola da zuppa. Tuffare gli spinaci nel brodo e mescolare. Coprire la pentola, portare a bollore leggero e cuocere per 3 minuti. Assaggiare gli spinaci: dovrebbero essere ben teneri. Cuocere un po’ più a lung, se necessario. Togliere dal calore.

Quando la zuppa è quasi pronta, scaldare l’olio in una padellina. Aggiungere un pizzico di sale all’aglio tritato e lavorare ancora un po’ con il coltello per formare quasi una pasta. Versare l’aglio nell’olio caldo e mescolare bene. Cuocere su fuoco gentile fino a quando l’aglio sia biondo e fragrante, mescolando spesso.

Versare un paio di mestoli di zuppa nel padelllino: sfrigolerà un po’. Mescolare brevemente e poi versare la zuppa di nuovo nella pentola. Ripetere questo passaggio e mescolare bene in modo che tutto l’aglio e l’olio siano incorporati nella zuppa.

Assaggiare e correggere il sale. (Non specifico una quantità perché dipende da quanto sia salato il brodo.)

Versare la zuppa in piatti fondi, aggiungere una spruzzata di succo di limone su ogni porzione e mescolare brevemente. Servire la zuppa con fettine fine di pane tostate o pita.

Porzioni: 4-5.

1 Post inaugurale dell’Abbecedario culinario mondiale.
2 Il mio post su ful medames (in inglese).
3 Mulukhiyah o Moloukhiya o Molokhia, etc. (wikipedia, in inglese)
4 Ricetta di Moloukhia soup (in inglese)
5 Ricetta di Molokhia soup (in inglese)
6 Dettagli in questo post (in inglese)


FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto il tovagliolo di lino gratuitamente dall’azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentare il prodotto sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.


Con questa ricetta partecipo alla nona tappa dell’Abbecedario culinario mondiale, un evento organizzato dalla Trattoria MuVarA che ci porterà a visitare 27 paesi del mondo usando le lettere dell’alfabeto come guida. I like Il Cairo (Egitto) è ospitata da Terry di Crumpets & Co

La lista di ricette contribuite all’evento e lo slide show che le mostra.