torta salata con cavolo riccio novello e crescenza / savory tart with baby kale and crescenza

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

savory tart with baby kale and crescenza

ready for the plate

Last week was a difficult one at briciole's headquarters due to the major disruption brought to TypePad, my blog service provider, by multiple distributed denial-of-service (DDoS) attacks. For several days, visitors could not access posts or pages and starting Monday, they would get an error message stating that the domain did not exist. It feels good to be able to write again on my blog.

It was also a busy week for briciole's writer, as I attended a bread-baking class at the San Francisco Baking Institute, which was a great experience. You will hear (and see) more about the baguettes and other breads I made and then brought home every day for the joy of the people with whom I shared them. Today, however, we are baking a savory tart.

baby kale

my "Red Russian" kale and parsley jungle

Spring (primavera) brings new life in our vegetable gardens and new, seasonal vegetables to our markets — a welcome change after the more limited choices we had during the winter. For my small vegetable patch, spring means baby kale to thin and therefore baby kale recipes.

Last year, I made some nice baby kale pesto with cashews and then used it to dress a bean and albacore tuna salad, while this year, with the tender leaves I topped a savory tart.

The base for the tart is the "alternative" puff pastry (pasta sfoglia "alternativa") presented in an earlier post. As in the case of the savory tart with cherry tomatoes and cheese, more than a recipe, this is a suggestion: the puff pastry is a canvas on which you can try a combination of ingredients. And of course, the given quantities can be adjusted to fill a bigger tart.

To accompany baby kale on the tart, I chose my homemade Crescenza, a cheese I had not made in a while and to which I went back recently with nice results. This is a versatile soft cheese, great to eat with bread or to use as an ingredient. I hope you can find Crescenza or Stracchino (which is the same cheese) at your local cheese store. If not, you can try making it at home: it is a great beginner's cheese.

savory tart with kale and crescenza cheese

ready for the oven

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for savory tart with baby kale and crescenza

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 oz. / 42 g leek, white and light green portion, washed and cut into 1/8 inch / 3 mm thick half-moons
  • 5 1/4 oz. / 15o g baby kale (mine is "Red Russian" variety)
  • 1 teaspoon / 5 ml EV olive oil
  • A pinch of fine sea salt
  • 165 g / 5 3/4 oz. (half a batch) of "alternative" puff pastry OR equivalent amount of regular puff pastry
  • Crescenza or Stracchino cheese, to taste (without overdoing it)

Rinse leek well and drain.

Wash the baby kale and don't drain them completely. Discard the tougher end of the stalks, then cut leaves into ribbons no more than 1/2-inch wide.

Warm up olive oil in a medium skillet. Add leek and and cook it for 2 minutes, stirring often. Cover the skillet and cook leek for 5 minutes longer on gentle heat, until quite tender.

Uncover the skillet, turn up the heat to medium and add the cut kale leaves. Cook in the water clinging to them for 2 minutes. Cover the skillet and continue cooking on gentle heat until kale is tender, about 8 minutes. Stir to make sure kale cooks evenly and doesn't stick to the pan. Season with salt and let cool briefly.

Preheat the oven to 375 F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper. Roll out the pastry until fairly thin, then place it on the lined baking sheet. I like to make a rectangular tart. Prick the shell with a fork in several places.

Distribute kale over rolled pastry, leaving a border all around (about 1/2 inch).

Cut thin slices of cheese and distribute in pieces on the kale at regular intervals. I never weigh the cheese, relying on my sense of balance to adjust the quantity: you want to be able to taste all the ingredients.

Pinch the pastry all around to raise it slightly and fold to make a kind of border. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the visible crust is light golden, about 25 minutes. As usual, the time varies with the oven. Check the tart after 20 minutes and estimate the time remaining.

Take the baking sheet out of the oven, let rest briefly, then move the tart to a plate or wooden tray, cut it, serve and enjoy.

Cut into smaller pieces, the tart makes a nice appetizer (antipasto).

snail on kale

snails like kale too

The snails and slugs in my small vegetable patch appreciate baby kale. I have to remind them that they need to vary their diet, so I move them to another spot, far away from temptation.

Whb430This is my contribution to edition #430 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and Brii of briggishome. and hosted this week by me, Simona of briciole.

The roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

torta salata con cavolo riccio novello e crescenza

or launch the torta salata con cavolo riccio novello e crescenza audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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puff pastry, cheese, savory tart, kale

Newrule

torta salata con cavolo riccio novello e crescenza

savory tart with baby kale and crescenza

pronta da servire

La scorsa settimana è stata difficile al quartier generale di briciole, a causa di un cosiddetto distributed denial-of-service (DDoS) attack. ripetuto per diversi giorni, durante i quali post e pagine non erano accessibili ai visitatori. Mi fa piacere poter scrivere di nuovo sul mio blog.

È stata anche una settimana impegnativa poiché sono stata un corso di panificazione al San Francisco Baking Institute, un'esperienza molto bella di cui parlerò ancora più avanti. Nel frattempo, oggi prepariamo una torta salata.

baby kale

la mia giungla di cavolo riccio "Red Russian" e prezzemolo

La primavera porta nuova vita nei nostri orti e verdure di stagione nei mercati — un cambiamento gradito dopo l'inverno che offre scelte limitate. Per il mio orticello, primavera significa cavolo riccio novello e ricette che lo utilizzano.

L'anno scorso ho preparato pesto di cavolo riccio novello con anacardi che poi ho usato per condire un'insalata di fagioli e tonno (ricetta solo in inglese), mentre quet'anno ho inventato una torta salata che usa le tenere foglie.

La base per la torta salata è fatta con la pasta sfoglia "alternativa" della quale ho parlato in un post di qualche tempo fa. Come nel caso della torta salata con pomodori ciliegia e formaggio, più che una ricetta, questo è un suggerimento: la pasta sfoglia è una tela sulla quale potete provare a combinare degli ingredienti che vi ispirano. E naturalmente, le dosi possono essere adattate a preparare una torta più grande.

Come accompagnamento per la verdura novella ho scelto la mia Crescenza fatta in casa, formaggio che non facevo da un po' e al quale sono tornata di recente con buoni risultati. Formaggio fresco versatile, la Crescenza, o Stracchino, si trova facilmente nei negozi ma è anche facile da fare in casa.

savory tart with kale and crescenza cheese

pronta da infornare

Ingredienti:

  • 42 g porro, parte bianca e verde chiaro, lavato e tagliato a mezzelune spesse 3 mm
  • 15o g cavolo riccio novello (la varieta che ho io si chiama "Red Russian")
  • 5 ml olio EV oliva
  • Un pizzico di sale fino
  • 165 g pasta sfoglia "alternativa" (metà di quella che ottenete seguendo le dosi della ricetta), oppure la stessa quantità di pasta sfoglia tradizionale
  • Crescenza or Stracchino cheese, a piacere (ma senza esagerare)

Sciacquare bene il porro. 

Lavare il cavolo riccio senza sgrondarlo del tutto. Scartare la parte più dura del gambo di e tagliare le foglie a nastri non più larghi di 1,25 cm.

Scaldare un po' d'olio in una padella di dimensioni medie. Aggiungere il porro e cuocerlo per 2 minuti, mescolando spesso. Coprire la padella e cuocere per altri 5 minuti a fuoco basso fino a quando il porro sia tenero.

Scoprire la padella, alzare il fuoco e aggiungere le foglie tagliate. Cuocere per 2 minuti nell'acqua che hanno ancora attaccata. Coprire la padella e cuocere per altri 5 minuti a fuoco basso fino a quando il cavolo riccio sia tenero, circa 8 minuti. Mescolare e fare attenzione che la verdura non si attacchi al fondo della padella. Condire con sale e far intiepidire.

Scaldare il forno a 190 C e foderare una lastra da forno con tappetino di silicone per forno o carta da forno. Stendere la pasta sfoglia fina e poi muoverla sulla lastra foderata. A me piace darle forma rettangolare. Bucherellare la superficie con una forchetta in diversi punti.

Distribuire il cavolo riccio sulla pasta sfoglia, lasciando tutto intorno un bordo di circa 1,25 cm. 

Tagliare il formaggio a fettine piuttosto sottili e poi a pezzi e distribuirlo sulla verdura ad intervalli regolari. Non poso il formaggio, ma mi baso sul mio senso dell'equilibrio per la quantità: l'idea è di poter distinguere il sapore dei vari ingredienti.

Pizzicare la pasta sfoglia tutto intorno per sollevare leggermente il bordo, poi ripiegarlo su se stesso. Infornare e cuocere fino a quando la crosta è dorata, 25 minuti circa. Ogni forno è un po' diverso e quindi è bene controllare la torta dopo 20 minuti e valutare quanto tempo manca.

Tirare fuori la teglia dal forno, far riposare brevemente la torta e poi tagliare e servire.

Tagliata a quadrotti, questa torta salata può essere servita come antipasto.

snail on kale

il cavolo riccio piace anche alle chiocciole

Chiocciole e lumache nel mio orticello adorano il cavolo riccio. Devo ricordare loro che hanno bisogno di una dieta variata e quindi le trasferisco in un altro posto, lontano dalla tentazione delle tenere foglioline.

Whb430 Questo post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 430 di Weekend Herb Blogging, evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, ora organizzato da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once e Brii di briggishome e ospitato questa settimana da me, Simona di briciole.

Il raccolto dell'evento.

 

pasta sfoglia “alternativa” / “alternative” puff pasty

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

DSC_0021

I agonized a bit over the title for this post. Marta of Mangiare è un po' come viaggiare (eating is a bit like traveling) whose post inspired me, calls it pasta sfoglia light, using the English adjective in a way that is very common in Italy to describe food items that are less caloric (usually due to a lower fat content) than their traditional counterpart (disclaimer: this is simply a linguistic explanation; I don't know how the all-butter puff pastry I make compares to the one described below in terms of calories, so I make no claims in this regard). One of the posts Marta references calls it finta sfoglia, fake puff pastry, which I don't like as it may also discourage people for giving the recipe a try. The other post referenced calls it sfoglia dei poveretti, poor people's puff pastry, a nice alliteration that has an interesting social connotation: however, it doesn't quite apply to the US, where true ricotta is very hard to find. So, I decided to use "alternative" puff pastry, meaning, it is not the traditional all-butter puff pastry, but an alternative you may choose to make.

As a child, I thought that puff pastry was magical: I mean, what makes all those layers that give the pastry the texture everybody loves? In my case, the magic was demistified a few years ago:

In July 2008, I interviewed Trace Leighton, Chef de Patisserie of Nibblers Eatery & Wine Bar, in Pleasant Hill1 for an article that was later published on Edible East Bay (you can download the pdf of "The Physicist and the Baker" from this page). The main topic of our conversation was puff pastry, and I owe to Trace the fearlessness of my first attempt at it, which was a success. Therefore, puff pastry is now part of my repertoire. A great characteristic of puff pastry is that it can be frozen and, in fact, for this recipe I used part of a batch that I had made and frozen a few weeks ago. The recipe for vol-au-vents on the Daring Bakers' site has also instructions on how to make puff pastry. [from my post on vol-au-vents]

The recipe in Marta's post caught my attention because it uses ricotta as an ingredient, together with flour and butter (farina e burro). As most of you know, I make ricotta at home fairly regularly, using the whey (siero di latte) from various cheeses I make, so ricotta is an ingredient that is readibly available to me. A portion of the first batch of ricotta that I made after reading Marta's post went into the preparation of this alternative puff pastry. The rest went into the filling of the tart I made with some of that pastry. The recipe for the tart, the first rendition of which is portrayed in the photo at the top, will be in the next post.

In the traditional puff pastry recipe, the dough contains a certain amount of water. The alternative puff pastry does not have water among its ingredients: the whey in ricotta contributes the liquid component. Thanks to Lory of La Mercante di Spezie for sharing her recipe (which uses ricotta), to Adriano of Profumo di Lievito for offering his take (which uses cream cheese instead of ricotta and lowers the amount of butter) and photos, and to Marta for her version, which combines the previous two in using ricotta as the first one and the amount of butter of the second one.

Here, I am providing the English version of Marta's recipe, plus a couple of personal notes based on my experience making it.

puff pastry made with ricotta

Ingredients (see the notes below):

  • 125 g (4.4 oz.) all-purpose flour (about a cup minus a teaspoon)
  • 125 g (4.4 oz.) ricotta, mashed
  • 80 g (2.8 oz.) cold unsalted butter (a little less than 6 tablespoons) cut into small pieces
  • a generous pinch of salt

Note #1: invest in a digital kitchen scale that has both metric and US units. I use cups and spoons, but more often than not, I weigh ingredients. And having a scale allows you to follow recipes not written for a US audience.

Note #2: the amount of whey in my homemade ricotta depends on the length of the draining period. Differently from gnocchi di ricotta, this pastry does not require a very dry ricotta, but you don't want something dripping whey. After the regular draining period, I let the unmolded ricotta sit overnight in a bowl (in the fridge) and the morning after I take my 125 g from the top layer. I also usually have a small quantity of whey at the bottom of the bowl and I remove it.

Note #3: I am not good at cutting butter into flour with anything other than my hands, so that is what I do. Some people like to grate the very cold butter using a coarse grater. I prefer cutting it into small pieces, but it is good to have options, isn't it?

Cut the butter into the flour and then add the ricotta. Make a dough, shape it into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick (see photo above), wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one day. The dough won't be nice and homogeneous at this point and that is fine.

The following day, fold the dough. To make one fold, roll the dough in both directions into a thinner rectangle. Fold along the longer side: fold the right third towards the center, then fold the left third over it to make a letter-shaped package (see photos in this post). Wrap the folded dough again and refrigerate for half an hour or so. (If it is more, it is fine: I honestly never time part of the process.)

puff pastry made with ricotta: fold

Repeat the fold twice more in the same way. In the process, you will see that the dough becomes more homogeneous and smoother. After the last fold, refrigerate again and use as you wish. (I ended up making a fourth fold, just to see what would happen.) As mentioned above, puff pasty can be frozen, which makes it a great resource to have on hand. If you roll it and then freeze it, it will take less time to thaw when you need it.

Marta halved the quantity of the ingredients used in the recipes she quotes and I followed her lead. Whenever possible, I recommend making a smaller batch of a new recipe until you become comfortable with the process, then go for the full amount. The recipe as given makes a nice amount of puff pastry to play with.

Once you have the savory puff pastry, you can make vol-au-vents, savory tarts, pizzette (my childhood's dream party food brought to life in the post referenced by Cara and Stefano of Due Spaghetti), etc.

1 The restaurant is now called The Fig Tree.

Bookmarked recipes new logo

I am submitting this recipe, bookmarked on the blog Mangiare è un po' come viaggiare to the January edition of Bookmarked Recipes, an event originally started by Ruth of Ruth’s Kitchen Experiments and now hosted by Jacqueline of Tinned Tomatoes.

This post contains the roundup of the event.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

pasta sfoglia "alternativa"

or launch the pasta sfoglia "alternativa" audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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puff pastry, ricotta

Newrule

pasta sfoglia "alternativa"

DSC_0021

La ricetta che presento è praticamente la traduzione in inglese della ricetta per pasta sfoglia light di Marta (a.k.a. Martissima) del blog Mangiare è un po' come viaggiare. Nel suo post, Marta spiega la genealogia della ricetta e fa riferimento ai post che l'hanno ispirata. Le uniche due differenze tra la ricetta di Marta e quella che ho seguito io sono l'uso di un pizzico abbondante di sale invece di un cucchiaino e quello della mia ricotta fatta in casa. Grazie, Marta!

La foto qui sopra ritrae la torta salata che ho preparato utilizzando la pasta sfoglia di cui sopra: la ricetta della torta sarà argomento del mio prossimo post, che farà parte della raccolta per Weekend Herb Blogging di questa settimana.