A sweet, but not overly so, and fruity side dish (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is the novel Kitchens of the Great Midwest by J. Ryan Stradal.1 The book’s structure surprised me in a good way. Each of the eight chapters has a different narrator, and each chapter contributes to telling the story of Eva Thorvald. She is technically the novel’s protagonist, but doesn’t narrate a chapter, so we see her through the perspective of others who tell their own story and their experience of, or encounter with, Eva. The narrators include Eva’s father, who dies when she is an infant, her cousin Braque, Will, who has a crush on Eva when in high school, Eva’s mother, who left the family shortly after Eva’s birth, and others. I listened to the audio book (narrated by Michael Stuhlbarg and Amy Ryan), which kept in check my desire to jump ahead and see who would be the next narrator.
Eva goes from growing exceedingly hot peppers in her room to becoming a famous and elusive chef who cooks exclusive pop-up dinners in remote locations. While I never wished to attend one of the dinners, I appreciated how Eva helped people in her life, family and strangers. The best moments of the novel for me were those describing kindness and generosity, like when Pat slips the gift card she won at the bake-off competition into the bag of someone who needs it more than she does.
The book includes many references to food, from lutefisk to pepper jelly and succotash, from a variety of bars and traditional Midwest baked goods to the courses of Eva’s famous dinners. I was inspired to create something new in terms of flavor combination, but also simple, since an additional challenge was that I traveled for four weeks between the end of June and the end of July, from Northern California to Oregon, Washington and British Columbia, so didn’t have access to my kitchen. Thankfully, I had access to farmers markets and farm stands, and seasonal produce was once again my main source of inspiration: apricots, fresh onions, particularly walla walla, and carrots. Cumin (cumino), ginger root (radice di zenzero), and fresh thyme (timo) contribute to the dish’s flavor profile.
I prepared the first rendition of this dish while we were staying in a lovely house north of Victoria, B.C. I have since made it many times using carrots of various colors. For the version in the photo I used orange and yellow carrots.
2 1/2ounces/ 70 grams ripe apricot(1 large apricot)
Equipment
skillet 10-inch / 25-cm or 9-inch / 23-cm
Method
Scrub carrots well and scrape the surface to remove a thin layer of skin, then grate using the extra-coarse side of a hand grater.
Thinly slice the onion lengthwise, then separate the layers.
Warm up the olive oil in a 10-inch / 25-cm (or 9-inch / 23-cm) skillet on medium heat.
Add the onion and stir. Lower the heat and after 2 minutes, add the cumin, ginger and thyme. Stir well and cover. Cook on low heat for 5-6 minutes, or until the onion is soft.
Uncover the skillet, turn up the heat to medium, add the grated carrots and stir well. Cover, lower the heat and cook for 8 minutes or until the carrots are just tender.
Halve the apricot, remove the stone and thinly slice each half.
Uncover the skillet, sprinkle in the sea salt and stir well. Distribute the apricot slices on the vegetables and stir gently.
Remove from the heat and serve warm.
This side dish is sweet, but not overly so. Still, I like to pair it with something more decidedly savory. I confess it was difficult to stop eating it, either warm from the pan or at room temperature.
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
smells comforting (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is the memoir Coming to My Senses by Alice Waters1 chef and cookbook author, whose name is associated to the renowned restaurant Chez Panisse2 in Berkeley, CA, which she opened in 1971 (with Paul Aratow), the farm-to-table movement and the Edible Schoolyard Project.3
I listened to the audio book, narrated by Waters. I enjoyed learning about certain aspects of what makes Chez Panisse special, like the beautiful menus. Listening to Waters’s stories, it’s important to remember that ideas like farm-to-table restaurants, now mainstream, were new when she started implementing them. I don’t share any of her experiences in terms of “food awakening” as I grew up in Italy and with strong connections to food producers.
Waters describes her travels to France and other parts of Europe. She writes off Italy, where she had an unpleasant experience. Initially I was irritated by her words, then realized that I have done the same with France, after an unpleasant experience in Paris. Indeed, first impressions leave a lasting mark.
I don’t have any of Waters’s cookbooks, but I share her focus and delight in cooking with fresh, local, seasonal ingredients (ingredienti freschi, di produzione locale e di stagione). This is the season of peppers, sweet corn and fresh onions (cipolle), including sweet Walla Walla. I was inspired by a recipe from Saveur magazine: Creamy Poblano Rajas With Corn by Fatima Khawaja.4 In my version, I oven roast poblano peppers and sweet corn, the balance of ingredients is more towards the peppers, and I use fromage blanc rather than Mexican crema or crème fraîche. The result is drier, to be served as a side dish.
People who follow me on Instagram know that I celebrate farmers and their products by creating still lifes like the one below, which include two of the recipe ingredients.
from the farmers’ market, including a poblano pepper and fresh oregano
In the spirit of a Chez Panisse menu, below are the sources of the ingredients used in the various rendition of this recipe, purchased at local farmers’ markets or farm stands:
poblano peppers: Happy Hearts Farm, Luna Farm, Shakefork Community Farm
sweet corn: Earthly Edibles, Flood Plain Produce, Shakefork Community Farm, The Corn Crib
Walla Walla onion: Neukom Family Farm
garlic: Happy Hearts Farm, Luna Farm
fresh oregano (origano): Woven Hearts Herb Farm
Foggy Morning (fromage blanc): Nicasio Valley Cheese Company
ready to start cooking
When sweet corn and peppers are in season, roasting them is a kind of ritual I follow once I get home from shopping.
For efficiency's sake, I recommend roasting at least 2 fresh ears of corn, still in their husks and with silks attached (otherwise wrap them in foil before roasting).
Place the corn on a baking sheet leaving a bit of space between the ears and roast for 20 minutes. Let the ears cool briefly, then remove the husks and silks (or foil).
Working in a shallow bowl or dish, stand the corn vertically and use a knife to cut the kernels and scrapings from the cob. (Save the empty cobs to make stock or broth.) Weigh the necessary amount, toss with a fork to separate the kernels, and set aside. Refrigerate (or freeze) the rest.
Heat the oven to 375 F / 190 C.
Place the poblano peppers on a baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, then turn the peppers 180 degrees.
Roast for 15 more minutes, then turn the peppers. Repeat after 10 minutes. The peppers are ready when their skin has turned dark and is detaching in places. If necessary, continue roasting for a few more minutes.
Put the peppers in a sealed container or paper bag to steam, then peel off the skin, discard the stem and seeds, and the liquid they release.
Cut the flesh into strips ½ inch wide x 2 inches long (1.25 cm x 5 cm) and transfer to a bowl. Transfer the corn to the same bowl.
In a 10-inch / 25-cm deep sauté pan or large skillet, warm up the olive oil and butter (if using) over medium heat. Add the onion, stir well, turn down to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and beginning to brown, 8-10 minutes or as needed. Add the oregano and garlic and cook until fragrant, less than 1 minute.
Add the poblano peppers and corn and stir well, then add the fromage blanc in small dollops and stir to blend.
Remove from the heat, sprinkle the sea salt, taste and adjust, then serve.
Notes
Roast the sweet corn and poblano peppers ahead of preparing the dish.
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own
ready to be served (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is the historical novel A Bakery in Paris by Aimie Runyan1, which alternates between the story of Lisette and that of her great-granddaughter Micheline. Both lived in Paris. Lisette’s story is set during the German siege (1870-1871)2 and subsequent Commune (1871)3, that of Micheline immediately after the end of WWII.
Lisette is the original founder and owner of the title’s bakery, which Micheline reopens, offering the usual assortment of French pastries, prepared based on Lisette’s recipes (documented in a notebook and provided at the end of some of the chapters) and her culinary academy training.
One of the pastries is croquembouche (pièce montée). Years ago I made a version of it where I used melted chocolate (70% cocoa) instead of caramelized sugar (zucchero caramellato) to bind the choux pastry, because “I don’t like the contrast between the hard caramelized sugar and the lightly crisp bignè shell, which segues immediately into the soft filling. Melted chocolate offers, in my opinion, the perfect binding material: it provides stability by hardening into a layer of the right consistency, so the progression of taking one bite is: 1) crack thin layer of chocolate, 2) break crisp bignè shell, 3) glide into creamy filling. Basically, heaven.”4
After her husband, Théo, dies fighting with the Communards, Lisette, pregnant, is expected to marry her first fiancé and go to Provence (Provenza) with him until after giving birth. She ends up not going and not marrying him (again), but I decided to stay there for inspiration.
Tarte aux blettes is a Provencal dessert made with Swiss chard. While I was not interested in replicating it (we don’t eat dessert), I played with the idea of adding a sweet note to a vegetable I like and eat regularly.
For my first try, I bought a bunch of rainbow chard at the Little Wing Farm stand5 outside Point Reyes Station while I was riding my bicycle. I had planned to stop there, so had a couple of bags in my backpack. The chard was kept in a tub and I didn’t realize until I took up a bunch how big it was, with long colorful stems (which I adore!) and large leaves. When I put it in the backpack, the top stuck out giving me, I am sure, a curious appearance when riding.
At the San Rafael farmers’ market, where I shop when in the Bay Area, some vendors offer slightly blemished or overripe fruit at a discounted price, and I usually get some to add to dishes, like this one. This is the season of stone fruit and I decided to try pairing the chard with white nectarine (pesca noce or nettarina) first. I then tried using a peach (pesca), peeled, and also apricots (albicocche). All the fruit worked well. The sweetness balances the light bitter nuance of chard and the result is a side dish that nods towards dessert without being overly sweet.
1 pound / 450 grams rainbow chard or Swiss chard, stems included, up to 6-7 inches / 15-18 cm (if you have more, save them for another dish: do not discard them)
4 ounces / 112 grams red spring onion
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil OR 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil + 1 tablespoon / 15 grams unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon Harissa spice mix
2 tablespoons / 30 ml warm water if needed
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
4 ounces fruit (e.g., nectarine, peach, apricot), clean weight
Finely chop the onion and mince the garlic.
Separate the chard stems from the leaves and chop the stems. Halve the leaves lengthwise, stack 5-6 at a time and cut them into 1-inch / 2.5-cm wide ribbons.
Warm up a 5-qt cast iron Dutch oven and add the olive oil. When hot, add the onion and cook on medium heat for 2 minutes, then add the stems and sprinkle the Harissa spice mix and thyme. Stir well and cover. Turn the heat down to medium-low.
Cook for 8 minutes or until the onion is soft, stirring often.
Add the garlic and stir. After 1 minute add the chard. Cover and cook for 1 minute to let the chard wilt, then stir. Cover and cook for another 7 minutes or until the chard is tender.
In the meantime, cut the fruit into 3/4 inch / 2 cm- side cubes. If using a peach, peel it first.
When the chard is almost cooked, add the fruit, stir and cook for 1 minute.
Remove from the heat, sprinkle the sea salt and stir. Transfer to a plate and serve.
Serves 3
A closer look
I like to eat this side dish alongside a more decidedly savory one, like mixed vegetables with thyme6 or the roasted vegetable medley I prepare weekly using zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, mushrooms, roasted corn and garlic.
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is Land of Milk and Honey, a novel by C Pam Zhang. The story is set in a world, where “A smog has spread. Food crops are rapidly disappearing.”1 The protagonist and narrator is a young chef, who
escapes her dying career in a dreary city to take a job at a decadent mountaintop colony seemingly free of the world’s troubles. There, the sky is clear again. Rare ingredients abound.1
Early in the book, after we are told that one of the ingredients she had to be creative with was “mung-protein-soy-algal flour distributed by the government,” the protagonist gets access to some strawberries: the scene describes in lush, sensual language the encounter with their “rupturing sweetness.” It is a powerful moment. From then on, however, the description of luxury ingredients and rich dishes becomes monotonous and the fact that a lot of food ends up discarded does not help. The novel has a serious purpose and raises questions about personal responsibility towards our planet, the world’s reliance on technical solutions to problems, the role of foods in our life. Readers who enjoy dystopian stories may agree with the praises bestowed upon this one.1,2
After briefly considering to prepare a dish with strawberries, I turned my attention to another food I like that is mentioned in the novel as one the protagonist longs for: radicchio.
radicchio varieties at the San Rafael farmers market (Longer Table Farm)
I understand longing for radicchio: it’s what I did for years after I moved to California, where I could not find it. Then, slowly, things started to change: radicchio di Chioggia for salads became available (see photo below, top right), then radicchio di Treviso (see photo below, the two on the left) and now I can get radicchio varieties (varietà di radicchio) at the grocery stores where I shop and from multiple vendors at farmers markets.
radicchio varieties from a recent trip at the farmers’ market (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Besides being delicious, radicchio is pretty in all its incarnations. While the better known color is reddish-purple, there are other colors, including pink, green and variegato.
Taste-wise the defining characteristic of radicchio is its light bitterness. While I like the pure taste of radicchio, I also like to balance out its bitter note. In a salad, I do that with sweet salad greens, carrots, fruit (for example, persimmon). In a cooked dish, I often use sweet corn3. I had never tried fruit, so decided to do that. A recipe in an issue of Edible East Bay for roasted Brussels sprouts with walnuts and grapes suggested that fruit.
two varieties of radicchio di Verona and other ingredients
The results of various experiments is a recipe that is easy to prepare and makes a side dish with a strong personality. The only — slight — downside of radicchio is that its brilliant, distinctive color does not survive cooking.
The side dish is a little bitter and a little sweet, and you can easily make it vegan by substituting the butter with another tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil.
1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil + 1 tablespoon / 15 grams unsalted butter OR 2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil [vegan]
12 ounces / 225 g radicchio di Treviso, variety precoce (early) or radicchio di Verona (red or pink variety) or a mix
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon smoked paprika4
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
Heat the oven to 350 F / 170 C.
Line a baking or cookie sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
Halve the grapes lengthwise and distribute them on the sheet. Bake for 8 minutes. Remove the sheet from the oven and transfer the grapes and any juice they may produce into a small bowl.
In a 10-inch/25-cm deep sauté pan, warm the olive oil and butter (if using) over medium heat. Add the onion, stir well, then reduce the heat to low. After 1 minute, cover the pan and cook over low heat for 8 minutes, or until the onion is soft, stirring often and making sure the pan does not become dry.
Separate the leaves of radicchio, wash and drain them. Cut them in ribbons 3/8 inch- / 1 cm-wide.
Add the garlic and smoked paprika to the pan and stir well. After 1 minute, turn up the heat to medium, add the radicchio and stir well. Add 1 tablespoon of water and stir well. Cover, lower the heat and cook until the radicchio ribs is just tender (6-7 minutes), stirring every now and then. If the pan becomes dry, add another tablespoon of water.
Add the red grapes and stir. Cover and continue cooking for 1-2 minutes until the grapes are heated through. Adjust the salt, give it a final stir and take off the heat. Serve warm.
Serves 2-3.
another rendition of the recipe
In one of the variations I tried, I cooked the cut red grapes with the radicchio. I didn’t like the result as much as when the red grapes are roasted before being added to the radicchio.
In the photo above you can see radicchio di Treviso precoce (top) and eye-catching radicchiovariegato di Castelfranco (bottom).
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
fall flavors combine to make a delicious side dish (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is Crying in H Mart a memoir by Michelle Zauner. In August 2018, the author had an essay published in The New Yorker magazine1 with the same title. It starts like this:
Ever since my mom died, I cry in H Mart. For those of you who don’t know, H Mart is a supermarket chain that specializes in Asian food. The “H” stands for han ah reum, a Korean phrase that roughly translates to “one arm full of groceries.”
The essay became the first chapter of the memoir, which
maps a complicated mother-daughter relationship cut much too short. Stories of Korean food serve as the backbone of the book, as Zauner plumbs the connections between food and identity. That search takes on new urgency after her mother’s death — in losing her mother, she also lost her strongest tether to Korean culture.2
For most of the book, I had difficulty connecting to the author. I finally felt the connection when, after her mother’s death, Zauner experienced the unbearable weight of perceived failure in their inability of winning the fight against cancer. (My mother died 14 years ago, also of cancer.) Adding that crushing burden to a person’s grief is unfair. I believe we should erase the metaphors used to describe cancer’s progression in favor of factual words.
I expected the book to make me want to try Korean food, but it didn’t. Part of the reason is that most of the dishes mentioned (and there are a lot!) are meat-based. Then, the food is part of the language and narrative of the book. Not being Korean, I don’t have any memories of, or associations with those dishes. However, I understand the feeling. Shopping at a supermarket (supermercato) is one of the first things I do when I arrive in Italy for a visit: surrounded by familiar foods, I have truly arrived.
street seller of roasted chestnuts (Perugia, 2012)
So the book inspired me to look at a food from my upbringing, something not only Italian, but from my family traditions. When I was in Italy last month, the smell of roasted chestnuts (caldarroste), which in Italy are sold as street food, reminded me of my mother. Every October, she would buy a large amount of chestnuts from someone in Casperia, the village in central Italy where she grew up. Then, in the following weeks, we would eat them often, as dessert at the end of dinner, alternatively roasted and boiled. I liked them both ways.
a trail above Bressanone through a chestnut grove
In Bressanone, a city in South Tyrol, where we spent the first week of the recent visit, one day I rode my bicycle through a castagneto (grove of chestnut trees) and saw people foraging for chestnuts, freeing them from the spiny burs (ricci). While chestnuts are not widely available where I live now, one farm brings them to the market. When, upon returning from Italy, I saw them, I was inspired to use them to make a side dish, together with other seasonal ingredients: honeynut squash, green cabbage, leeks.
The main ingredients (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
The side dish is earthy and sweet (almost dessert-like) and you can easily make it vegan by omitting the butter and adding another tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil. It is a great choice for Holiday-related gatherings as it accommodates a variety of eating styles.
6 ounces / 170 grams leek, white and light green portion, clean weight (set aside the darker green portion to make broth or stock)
2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon / 15 grams unsalted butter OR 1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil [vegan option]
1 pound / 450 grams green cabbage
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
½ teaspoon harissa spice mix
¼ cup / 60 ml lukewarm water
¾ -1 teaspoon fine sea salt, to taste
Notes: 1) The chestnuts must be prepared in advance, so plan accordingly. 2) If you cannot find the honeynut squash, you can use a small butternut or red kuri squash.
Do ahead: Cook the chestnuts With a pointed blade, make a slit in the shell without cutting through the meat. Place the chestnuts in a saucepan, cover abundantly with water and add the bay leaf. Cover the saucepan, bring to a lively boil then cook on low heat until the chestnuts are tender (check one after 30 minutes to estimate the time remaining).
Take the pan off the heat. Take out of the water 3 chestnuts. Wait a minute to let them cool and peel the first one. Use a sharp knife with a pointed blade to remove the shell, then the skin. Take another one out of the water, then peel one of the first 3, and so on: this creates a lineup of chestnuts cool enough to handle but warm enough for easier peeling. If a chestnut breaks while being handled, it is fine: they will be roughly chopped later anyway. Set aside.
Prepare the dish Use a sturdy swivel vegetable peeler to peel the squash. Deseed the squash, if needed. Slice it, then cut it into cubes no larger than ½ inch / 1.25 cm. (If you use a red kuri squash, quarter it and deseed it first, then peel it.)
Cut the leek (or leeks) in half lengthwise and slice into 1/8 inch / 3 mm half-moons. Rinse well in a colander, then place in a bowl and fill it with cold water. With your hands, swirl the leeks to clean them well, then scoop them out of the water with a sieve or slotted spoon and drain them in a colander.
Warm the olive oil and butter (if using) in a 10-inch deep sauté pan or large skillet on medium heat. Turn the heat down to medium-low, add the leeks, stir well and cook for 2 minutes. Add the squash, stir well and cook for another 2 minutes. Cover the pan and cook on low heat for 8 minutes, stirring often, until the leeks are just tender and the squash has softened a bit.
In the meantime, quarter and core the cabbage. Cut away the external thick ribs. Slice each quarter into ¼-inch / 6-mm-thick ribbons.
Turn up the heat to medium-low. Add the garlic to the pan, sprinkle the harissa on the vegetables and stir well. After 1 minute, add the cabbage and the water, stir slightly (this will be a bit awkward, given the volume of the raw cabbage) and cover. Cook over low heat until the cabbage is almost ready (15-18 minutes, or as needed), stirring often.
In the meantime, cut each chestnut into 6-8 pieces.
Add the chestnuts to the cabbage and stir well. Cover and continue cooking for 3-5 minutes, stirring often, until the chestnuts are heated through and the cabbage and squash are tender.
Sprinkle ¾ teaspoon of salt on the vegetables, stir, taste and add more salt, if needed. Remove the pan from the heat. Serve immediately.
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
sweet and crunchy with a note of cheese (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Our current Cook the Books Club selection is Family Tree by Susan Wiggs1. The novel follow Annie as the life she thought was perfect shatters (physically, as she is the victim of a major accident, and emotionally, as the accident happens on the heels of her discovering her husband’s infidelity) and is slowly rebuilt. I don’t think the publisher’s description “powerful, emotionally complex story” applies. However, if you enjoy stories about second chances, family and small towns you may like this novel.
pretty in bright green (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
At the beginning Annie is the producer of a TV cooking show called The Key Ingredient, starring her husband. At the end, she produces and stars in a food webcast called Starting from Scratch. I don’t watch television nor webcasts, so have no experience of either genres. Still, I played a game in my mind, imagining what I would do if I were given the chance to host a food-centric show. I decided that I’d probably roam farmers markets and interview farmers and also stop at farmstands and do a live version of the still lives with produce I’ve been composing and photographing for some time2. (I usually publish them on Sunday afternoon.)
Little Wing Farm stand near Point Reyes Station is a must stop
When I ride my bicycle, if I encounter a farmstand, I usually stop. One place where I like to do so is the Little Wing Farm‘s unmanned stand just outside Point Reyes Station in Marin County. The last time I stopped there, a couple of weeks ago, it had gorgeous bunches of flowers, which I could not look at too closely, since I couldn’t carry one on my bike. I focused on the baby arugula (rucola) and shishito peppers: I purchased a bag of the former and a basket of the latter and tucked them into my light backpack (which also contained an oat bran date pecan muffin from Bovine Bakery3, in Point Reyes Station, my fuel for the longish ride).
After Point Reyes Station, my ride brought me to the charming village of Nicasio, home of the Nicasio Valley Cheese Company4. Given the warm temperature and the fact that I’d be on my bicycle for at least another couple of hours, I didn’t stop to purchase cheese at the creamery (caseificio), but did so the following morning at the San Rafael farmers’ market and went home with some of their tomino.
just add cheese (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
The baby arugula brightened my dinner salad for several days. As for the shishito peppers, the most common way of preparing them is described also on the sign at the farmstand: cooked in a cast-iron skillet until blistered. Quick and easy, it gives an excellent result. The blistered peppers can be served as appetizer or side dish (antipasto o contorno). I wondered how the small, thin-skinned peppers would taste when paired with the tomino and went to work to find out. I liked the result and made the dish several more times, using shishito peppers from the farmers’ market.
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
a comforting dish with winter vegetables (dish by @fem_pottery, placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Cold weather makes me crave comforting dishes, with a solid flavor. This is my rendition of the Turkish dish Zeytinyağlı Kereviz, where kereviz means celeriac (also called celery root) and zeytinyağlı describes the cooking method, in olive oil.
Celeriac is a beautiful root vegetable with a mild celery flavor and a sweet note when cooked. It is hard to miss when displayed at the farmers’ market. (The photo above is from a few years ago.) As I was experimenting with this recipe, I could only find specimens with little or no greens left attached (as you can see in the photo below).
a view of the main ingredients (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
As usual with a traditional recipe, an online search provides a rich list of results, which I broadly divided into two categories: 1) those that start with the onion being cooked in oil before the celeriac and other vegetables are added, and 2) those in which all the vegetables are cooked together, starting at the same time. My version is a variation of the latter. It is quite straightforward to prepare and gives a surprisingly flavorful result.
Orange and lemon juice provide a nice note to the flavor, balancing the earthiness of the root vegetables. Truly a case where the result surprised me in a pleasant way.
10 ounces / 280 grams celeriac (set aside the leaves, if present)
1/3 cup / 80 ml freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon / 15 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 ounces / 85 grams carrots
3 ounces / 85 grams small potatoes
2 ounces / 56 grams onion or shallot
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons / 45 ml extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup / 120 ml water
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped celeriac leaves, or lovage leaves (levistico), or a mix with fennel (finocchio) frond or fresh dill (aneto)
Peel the celeriac and cut it into small chunks. Put the sliced celeriac into a saucepan and drizzle the orange and lemon juice on top (to prevent darkening while you prepare the other ingredients).
Scrub the carrots well and scrape the surface with a blade to remove a thin layer of skin. Cut the carrots into 1/4-inch / 6 mm-thick oblique slices, turning the carrot as you cut, to obtain small chunks. Distribute the carrots on top of the celeriac in the saucepan.
Scrub the potatoes and cut them into small cubes. Distribute the potatoes on top of the carrots in the saucepan.
Peel and quarter the onion. Cut each quarter into 1/8-inch / 3 mm-thick slices and separate the rings. Distribute the onion over the potatoes in the saucepan.
Sprinkle the black pepper on top of the vegetables, then drizzle the olive oil. Finally, pour the water over the vegetables.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn to low, cover the saucepan and let the vegetables simmer until they are all tender (25 minutes or so), stirring a couple of times (and making sure there is enough liquid). Sprinkle the salt and minced herbs and stir well. Let the vegetable cool down in the saucepan, where the cooking liquid has turned into a citrusy sauce (salsa agrumata). Serve warm or a room temperature.
Note: in my latest rendition, I omitted the salt and instead added at the end 1 teaspoon of chickpea miso diluted in some of the hot vegetable cooking liquid.
Serves 3-4 (this is a side dish with a robust flavor and I prefer to eat a smaller portion and serve also another vegetable side dish to complement it)
ready to be savored (dish by @fem_pottery, placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Perfect winter fare. Whether you like celeriac or you have not yet discovered it, I recommend trying this dish.
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
contorno di verdure invernali (ceramica di @fem_pottery, tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Arrivati alla lettera S del nostro viaggio nel mondo degli ingredienti ho scelto di preparare un piatto dalla Turchia1 a base di sedano rapa, Zeytinyağlı Kereviz: kereviz significa sedano rapa e zeytinyağlı descrive il metodo di cottura, in olio d’oliva.
Il sedano rapa è una bella radice con un leggero sapore di sedano e una nota dolce quando cotto. La foto in alto è di qualche anno fa: nel periodo in cui ho fatto esperimenti con la ricetta l’ho trovato solo con poche foglie o del tutto senza (come si vede nella foto in basso).
gli ingredienti principali (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Come al solito succede con una ricetta tradizionale, una ricerca online ritorna in una ricca lista di risultati che io ho diviso in due categorie: 1) ricette che cominciano col cuocere la cipolla in olio prima che vengano aggiunti gli altri ingredienti, e 2) ricette in cui le verdure sono cotte tutte insieme allo stesso tempo. La mia versione è una variante della seconda categoria, è semplice e il risultato è ricco di sapore.
Il succo di arancia e di limone fornisce una nota gustosa e bilancia il sapore delle radici. Davvero il risultato è una piacevole sorpresa.
Ingredienti:
280 grammi di sedano rapa (se presenti, tenete da parte le foglie)
80 ml succo d’arancia fresco
1 cucchiaio / 15 ml succo i limone’fresco
85 grammi di carote
85 grammi di patate piccole
56 grammi di cipolla o scalogno
1/8 cucchiainoo di pepe nero macinato fresco
3 cucchiai / 45 ml olio extra-virgine di oliva
120 ml d’acqua
1/2 cucchiaino di sale fino
1 cucchiaio di foglie tritate di sedano rapa o di levistico, magari con un po’ di finocchio o aneto fresco
Sbucciate il sedano rapa e tagliatelo a pezzetti. Metteteli in una pentola e versateci sopra il succo d’arancia e limone (per evitare che il sedano rapa scurisca mentre preparate gli altri ingredienti).
Lavare bene le carote e raschiarne la superficie con una lama per rimuovere la pellicina. Tagliarle a fettine oblique di 6 mm di spessore, ruotando la carota mentre la tagliate in modo da ottenere piccoli pezzi. Distribuite le carote sul sedano rapa nella pentola.
Lavate bene le patate e tagliatele a cubetti. Distribuite le patate sulle carote nella pentola.
Tagliate la cipolla in quarti, poi tagliate ciascun pezzo a fettine di 3 mm e separate gli anelli. Distribuite la cipolla sulle patate nella pentola.
Condite col pepe, poi spargete l’olio d’oliva sulle verdure e infine versate sopra l’acqua.
Portate a bollore su calore medio-alto poi abbssate il calore, incoperchiate la pentola e fate sobbollire le verdure fino a quando siano tenere (circa 25 minuti) mescolando un paio di volte e assicurandovi che ci sia liquido a sufficienza nella pentola.
Aggiungete il sale e le erbe tritate e mescolate bene. Fate intiepidire le verdure nella pentola, dove il liquido di cottura si è trasformato in una salsina agrumata. Servite le verdure calde o a temperatura ambiente.
Nota: l’ultima volta che ho preparato questo piatto ho omesso il sale e ho aggiunto alla fine un cucchiaino di miso di ceci diluito in un po’ del liquido di cottura bollente.
Porzioni: 3-4 (questo contorno ha un sapore robusto e io preferisco mangiarne una porzione relativamente piccola e servire anche un altro controno complementare)
pronto ad essere gustato (ceramica di @fem_pottery, tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Un piatto perfetto per l’inverno. Sia che vi piaccia il sedano rapa o non lo avete ancora scoperto, vi raccomando di assaggiare questo piatto.
Contribuisco il mio contorno di sedano rapa dalla Turchia alla lettera S di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di Trattoria Muvara
FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall’azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.
flavorful quinoa served in a ceramic dish by @fem_pottery (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
In looking for a recipe that features quinoa1 I found one with an intriguing name: atamalada2 “tamale-like.” What I like about this dish is that the quinoa is flavorful but not strongly so and accompanies well other dishes, like roasted vegetables, which I am preparing often these days.
perfect as accompaniment to roasted vegetables (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
I was also intrigued by the use of aji amarillo paste3 and set about making my own.
some of the ingredients of my version of quinoa atamalada (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
Since I could not find aji amarillo (yellow chili pepper), I used aji cristal (also spelled “crystal”)4. I omit the evaporated milk (latte evaporato) and use a local Monterey Jack cheese flavored with a hint of garlic and parsley5 instead of queso fresco.
1/2 cup / 3.5 ounces / 100 grams quinoa, any color or blend
1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces / 112 grams red onion, minced
1 teaspoon aji amarillo paste, or to taste (I use 1/2 tablespoon of aji cristal paste, recipe below)
1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 cup / 240 ml water + 1 cup / 240 ml vegetable broth
2 tablespoons / 30 ml evaporated milk (I don’t use it)
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 ounce / 30 grams queso fresco, diced (I use Monterey Jack)
1 packed tablespoon of minced fresh parsley
To make the aji paste: blanch the peppers for 5 minutes, then drain and place in ice-cold water to cool. Peel the peppers. I also deseed them. Put the peppers in a blender with a small amount of liquid and blend until you have a smooth paste. Transfer the paste to a small glass jar. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Put the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer (make sure it is fine enough that the quinoa does not go through the mesh). Rinse under cold water while rubbing the quinoa with your hand, then drain.
Warm up the oil in a saucepan on medium heat, add the onion, and stir well, then add the aji paste and stir. Cook over medium-low heat for 4 minutes, stirring almost constantly. Add the garlic, stir, and continue cooking for 1 minute.
Add the quinoa, stir well, then add the liquids. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer until cooked to a creamy consistency (22 minutes or so), stirring every now and then.
Pour the milk, if using, and stir well. Add the salt and stir. Distribute the cheese and parsley on the quinoa and stir well. Serve.
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
quinoa servita in una ciotola di ceramica creata da @fem_pottery (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Arrivati alla lettera Q del nostro viaggio nel mondo degli ingredienti ho scelto di preparare un piatto del Perù1 a base di quinoa, che, vale la pena ricordare, è nutriente e naturalmente priva di glutine. Mentre il piatto viene da lontano, la quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa) che uso in cucina viene da un’azienda agricola locale.2 A me piace comprare quella “arcobaleno” ossia un misto di semi di diversi colori.
La quinoa è perfetta come accompagnamento, per esempio di verdure miste al forno che preparo spesso in questi giorni.
perfetta per accompagnare verdure al forno (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
La ricetta utilizza la crema di peperoncini aji amarillo3 e io ho preparato la mia versione di questo condimento.
alcuni degli ingredienti della mia versione della quinoa atamalada (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Dal momento che non ho trovato aji amarillo, ho usato aji cristal (un altro tipo di peperoncino)4. Non uso il latte evaporato e invece del queso fresco utilizzo del Monterey Jack insaporito con aglio e prezzemolo di produzione locale.
Ingredienti:
100 grammi di quinoa di qualunque colore, o mista
1 cucchiaio / 15 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva
112 grammi di cipolla rossa, tritata
1 cucchiaino di crema di peperoncino aji amarillo, secondo il gusto (io uso 1/2 cucchiaio di crema di aji cristal, ricetta a seguire)
1 spicchio d’aglio piccolo, tritato
240 ml d’acqua + 240 ml di brodo vegetale
2 cucchiaio / 30 ml di latte evaporato (io non lo uso)
1/4 cucchiaino di sale fino
30 grammi di queso fresco, tagliato a dadini (io uso del Monterey Jack)
1 cucchiaio di prezzemolo fresco tritato
Per fare la crema di peperoncino aji: sbollentate i peperoncini per 5 minuti, scolateli e bloccate la cottura mettendoli in acqua ghiacciata per qualche minuto. Pelate i peperoncini e rimuovete i semi. Mettete i peperoncini in un frullatore con una piccola quantità di liquido e frullateli fino a formare una crema. Trasferite la crema in un barattolino di vetro e mettetela in frigorifero fino al momento di utilizzarla.
Mettete la quinoa in un colino a maglia molto fine. Sciacquare sotto il getto dell’acqua fredda mentre muovete i chicchi con la mano, poi scolare.
In un pentola bassa, scaldate l’olio a fuoco medio, aggiungete la cipolla e mescolate bene, poi aggiungete la crema di peperoncino e mescolate. Cuocete a fuoco medio-basso per 4 minuti, mescolando quasi di continuo. Aggiungete l’aglio, mescolate e continuate a cuocere per 1 minuto.
Aggiungete la quinoa, mescolate bene, poi aggiungete i liquidi. Portate a bollore, poi abbassate il calore e sobbollite, mescolando di tanto in tanto, fino a quando la quinoa è cotta ed ha una consistenza cremosa, tipo risotto.
Versate il latte, se lo usate, e mescolate bene. Aggiungete il sale e mescolate. Distribuite il formaggio e il prezzemolo sulla quinoa e mescolate bene, Servite.
Contribuisco la mia quinoa “tipo tamale” dal Perù alla lettera Q di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di Trattoria Muvara
FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall’azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.
eggplant and tomatoes: summer on a plate (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
The combination of eggplant and tomatoes is a favorite of mine. A summer dish I particularly enjoy is my version of parmigiana di melanzane, where I roast the two main ingredients and use two types of cheese1. A few years ago, I made a Persian dish that brings together eggplant and tomatoes with yellow split pea1. Eggplant is a popular vegetable in the Middle East, as baba ganoush lovers may know. Recently I discovered a couple of eggplant recipes from Afghanistan, including Borani Banjan, a dish made with slices of fried eggplant (melanzane fritte) simmered in tomato sauce and served topped with yogurt.
farm fresh ingredients and my homemade yogurt (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
I found versions in which the eggplant is roasted2 (the garlic too) or grilled3 (the onion too). My version takes inspiration from those and adds some personal touches. I made it a few times to try different options and below is my current favorite.
6 ounces / 170 grams fresh red or Walla Walla onion
2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
1 tablespoon / 15 ml extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound / 450 grams fresh, ripe, juicy tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 ounces / 1/2 cup / 112 grams low-fat or whole milk plain yogurt
water to dilute the yogurt, as needed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or thyme leaves
Heat the oven to 400 F / 200 C.
Line two baking sheets (or one baking sheet and one cookie sheet) with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
Trim the eggplant and cut them crosswise into slices 1/2 inch / 1.25 cm thick. Drizzle 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil over the slices and toss them with you hands. Distribute the slices on the prepared baking sheets, leaving a bit of space around each slice.
Cut the onion lengthwise into slices 1/4 inch / 0.6 cm thick. If the slices are long, cut them in half crosswise. Drizzle 1/2 tablespoons olive oil over the slices and toss them with you hands, separating the layers. Distribute the onion on the other prepared baking sheet or the cookie sheet.
Wrap the garlic cloves into aluminum foil, 2-3 cloves per small packet. Place the packets on the same sheet as the onion.
Place the sheets in the oven next to each other or the one with the onion on a rack above the other. Roast the vegetables for 15 minutes.
Take the sheets out of the oven. With a fork, flip the eggplant slices and with a spoon, toss the onion (make sure it does not burn). Put the sheets back in the oven, switching their position. Bake for 10 minutes. Take the sheets out of the oven. Let the vegetables cool for a few minutes, then transfer the eggplant onto a plate and the onion into a bowl. Unwrap the garlic cloves.
In the meantime, chop the tomatoes and place them in a bowl with their juices.
In a large, deep skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil on medium-low heat. Add the minced garlic and cook, stirring, until it turns pale golden, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, paprika, turmeric, sea salt and pepper and bring to a lively simmer. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes have broken down and become saucy, 6 minutes or so.
Squeeze the roasted garlic from the skin and place it into a small bowl. Mash with a small fork, then add the yogurt, stir and mash some more to make sure the garlic blends into the yogurt. If needed, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the yogurt is the consistency of thin pancake batter and can be drizzled. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
Add the onion to the tomatoes and stir well. Nestle the eggplant slices into the sauce and spoon some of the sauce over them. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the eggplant slices are very tender and have absorbed some of the sauce, but still retain their shape, 5 minutes or so. Remove from the heat and let cool.
To serve, divide the eggplant and their sauce among individual plates, drizzle the yogurt on top and sprinkle the mint or thyme. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
melanzane e pomodori: l’estate sul piatto (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Arrivati alla lettera M del nostro viaggio nel mondo degli ingredienti ho scelto di preparare un piatto con le melanzane, una delle mie verdure preferite, particolarmente abbinate ai pomodori. Cercando un piatto tradizionale di uno dei paesi dove non siamo ancora state, ne ho trovati un paio dall’Afghanistan, tra i quali Borani Banjan: fette di melanzana fritte, ripassate in sugo di pomodoro e servite con sopra dello yogurt.
ingredienti freschi dal mercato dei produttori e yogurt fatto in casa (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Ho trovato versioni nelle quali le melanzane sono cotte al forno1 (e anche l’aglio) o sulla griglia2 (e anche la cipolla). La mia versione si ispira a queste ricette e aggiunge qualche tocco personale. L’ho fatta diverse volte per provare dettagli diversi e qui sotto è la mia preferita. Vi ricordo che 1 cucchiaio = 15 ml e 1 cucchiaino = 5 ml.
Ingredienti:
560 grammi di melanzane globose
170 grammi di cipolla rossa
2 cucchiai / 30 ml olio extra-vergine di oliva
4-6 spicchi d’aglio non pelati
1 cucchiaio / 15 ml olio extra-vergine di oliva
3 spicchi d’aglio, pelati e tritati
450 grammi di pomodori freschi, maturi e sugosi
1/2 cucchiaino di paprika dolce
1/4 cucchiaino di curcuma in polvere
1/4 cucchiaino di pepe nero macinato fresco
1/2 teaspoon di sale fino
112 grammi di yogurt bianco intero o parzialmente scremato non dolcificato
acqua per diluire lo yogurt, q.b.
2 cucchiai di foglie di menta or timo tritate
Scaldate il forno a 200 C.
Foderate due placche da forno con tappetino da forno di silicone o carta da forno.
Tagliate le melanzane per largo a fettine spesse 1,25 cm. Spruzzate 1 cucchiaio e mezzo di olio d’oliva sulle fettine e mescolatele con le mani per oliarle. Distribuite le fettine sulla placca più grande lasciando un pochino di spazio intorno a ciascuna fettina.
Tagliate la cipolla per lungo a fettine spesse 0,6 cm. Se le fettine sono lunghe, taliatele a metà per largo. Spruzzate 1/2 cucchiaio di olio d’oliva sulle fettine e mescolatele con le mani per oliarle, allo stesso tempo separando gli strati. Spargete la cipolla sull’altra placca.
Avvolgete l’aglio nella carta stagnola, 2-3 spicchi per pacchetto e mettete i pacchetti sulla placca con la cipolla.
Infornate le placche una accanto all’altra o mettendo quella con le cipolle un livello sopra a quella con la cipolla. Cuocete le verdure in forno per 15 minuti.
Sfornate le placche. Con una forchetta, girate le fettine di melanzana e con un cucchiaio mescolate la cipolla. Rimettete le placche in forno scambinado la loro posizione. Cuocete per 10 minuti. Sfornate e fate intiepidire le verdure per qualche minuto, poi trasferite le melanzane su un piatto e la cipolla in una ciotola. Scartate gli spicchi d’aglio.
Nel frattempo, tagliate a pezzi i pomodori e metteteli in una ciotola con il sugo che rilasciano.
In una padella larga e profonda, scaldate 1 cucchiaio di olio d’oliva a calore medio-basso. Aggiungete l’aglio tritato e cuocetelo, mescolando, fino a quando sia biondo, 1 minuto circa. Aggiungete i pomodori, la paprika, la curcuma, sale e pepe e portare a leggero bollore. Coprite e cuocete, mescolando frequentemente, fino a quando i pomodori siano ridotti ad un sugo, circa 6 minuti.
Sbucciate l’aglio arrosto e mettetelo in una ciotolina. Schiacciatelo con una piccola forchetta poi aggiungete lo yogurt e mescolate in modo da incorporare la crema d’aglio. Aggiungete acqua, 1 cucchiaio alla volta, fino a quando lo yogurt abbia la consistenza della pastella e potete spruzzarlo. Coprite e tenete in frigorifero fino a quando state per utilizzarlo.
Aggiungete le cipolle ai pomodori e mescolate bene. Mettete le fettine di melanzana nella padella e con un cucchiaio copritele con del sugo. Coprite e cuocete a fuoco basso fino a quando le melanzane siano molto tenere e abbiano assorbito parte del sugo, ma mantengano la loro forma, circa 5 minuti. Togliete le verdure dal fuoco e fatele intiepidire.
Dividete le melanzane e il loro sugo su piatti individuali, cospargetele di yogurt e distribuite la menta o timo. Servite le melanzane calde o a temperatura ambiente.
Contribuisco le mie melanzane dall’Afghanistan alla lettera M di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di Trattoria Muvara
FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall’azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.
While searching for a traditional Italian dish using cauliflower, I found a recipe from Piemonte, whose name references the first prime minister of Italy, Camillo Benso, conte di Cavour (count of Cavour, usually referred to simply as Cavour1). In reading the details, I was intrigued by the combination of cauliflower, cheese, egg (uovo) and anchovies (acciughe) and decided to try it.
beauties on display
Cauliflower Cavour has an interesting flavor, the cheese, egg and anchovies all providing a note, without anyone being overwhelming, is fairly easy to prepare and uses a widely available vegetable.
The recipe I read in Il cucchiaio d’argento (and other online sources)2 is rich for my taste, so I prepare a lighter version inspired in part by Marco Bianchi’s rendition3 using olive oil instead of butter and only one egg instead of two. I also steam the cauliflower rather than boiling it.
the sauce (placemat by La FABBRICA del LINO)
If you taste the sauce, you’ll probably taste the strong flavor of anchovy. When you add the sauce to the cauliflower dressed with olive oil or butter, and cheese, the flavor is more balanced.
Note: it’s hard for me to find Grana Padano, so I use a locally made cheese.
Hard-boil the egg and set it aside.
Trim the cauliflower and cut it into bite-sized florets. Steam the florets for about 10 minutes, until just tender. (The tender, inner leaves and the stalk, peeled and cut crosswise into coins can be used in other recipes.)
Heat the oven to 350 F / 177 C.
Heat up the olive oil or butter in a skillet and add the cauliflower. Sauté for a few minutes stirring constantly.
Transfer the cauliflower into a baking dish a sprinkle the cheese on top.
Bake for 9-10 minutes.
In the meantime, peel the hard-boiled egg, mince it in a small bowl, then add the anchovies, minced, and the parsley or dill. Drizzle the olive oil or melted butter, season with the lemon juice and stir.
Take the dish out of the oven and distribute the sauce on the cauliflower. Serve immediately.
Serves 3.
1 Wikipedia entry for Cavour 2 “Cavolfiore alla Cavour” in “Il cucchiaio d’argento” 3 “Cavolfiore alla Cavour” by Marco Bianchi on the Umberto Veronesi Foundation’s site [the recipe is no longer accessible on this site]
Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post
FTC disclosure: I have received the table linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.
Alla ricerca di una ricetta italiana per il cavolfiore, ho incontrato questa, il cui nome mi ha incuriosito per il riferimento storico. Leggendo poi i dettagli, ho deciso che volevo assaggiare il connubio formaggio, uovo e acciuga.
Un articolo che ho letto1 parla di Cavour come buongustaio e fa riferimento al libro “Il gastronomo moderno” di Ernesto Borgarello (1904), che a pagina 522 cita ben 5 piatti “alla Cavour” (nessuno dei quali però è il cavolfiore).
una cascata di cavolfiori
Origine a parte, il cavolfiore alla Cavour è un piatto gustoso e non complicato da preparare, che utilizza un ortaggio facilmente reperibile.
La ricetta su “Il cucchiaio d’argento” (e altre pagine web)3 è molto ricca per i miei gusti, quindi io ne faccio una versione più leggera ispirata in parte alla versione di Marco Bianchi sul sito della Fondazione Umberto Veronesi,4 utilizzando olio d’oliva al posto del burro e diminuendo le uova. Inoltre cuocio il cavolfiore al vapore invece di bollirlo.
salsina pronta per insaporire il cavolfiore (tovaglietta di La FABBRICA del LINO)
Importante: se assaggiate la salsina probabilmente sentirete forte il sapore dell’acciuga. Quando però la aggiungete al cavolfiore condito con olio o burro e formaggio, il sapore si attenua.
Ingredienti:
1 cavolfiore medio, possibilmente bio (500 grammi puliti)
2-3 cucchiai / 30-45 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva (ricetta originale: 50 grammi di burro)
60 grammi di Grana Padano grattugiato (vedi Nota in basso)
per la salsa:
1 uovo sodo (ricetta originale: 2 uova)
2 piccoli filetti di acciuga sott’olio
1 cucchiaio di prezzemolo fresco tritato (oppure aneto fresco, idea mia)
1/2-1 cucchiaio / 7,5-15 ml di olio extra-vergine di oliva (ricetta originale: 30 grammi di burro fuso)
1 cucchiaino / 5 ml di succo di limone fresco
Nota: dove sono il Grana Padano non lo trovo facilmente e quando lo trovo non è buono come in Italia, quindi io uso un formaggio di produzione locale.
Preparate l’uovo sodo e mettetelo da parte.
Mondate il cavolfiore e tagliatelo a cimette. Cuocetele al vapore per circa 10 minuti finché siano appena tenere. (Potete utilizzare in altre ricette le foglie tenere interne e il gambo, pelato e tagliato a rondelle.)
Scaldate il forno a 180 gradi.
Scaldate l’olio o il burro in una padella e aggiungete il cavolfiore. Fate dorare le cimette per qualche minuto mescolando continuamente.
Trasferite il cavolfiore in una pirofila e cospargete con il formaggio grattugiato. Mescolate delicatamente e brevemente.
Infornate per 9-10 minuti.
Nel frattempo, sgusciate l’uovo sodo, tritatelo e ponetelo in una ciotolina con le acciughe sminuzzate e il prezzemolo o l’aneto. Versate l’olio a filo o il burro fuso, insaporite con il succo di limone e amalgamate bene.
Tirate fuori dal forno la pirofila e condite il cavolfiore con la salsa. Servite immediatamente.
Contribuisco il mio cavolfiore alla Cavour dall’Italia alla lettera C di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di Trattoria Muvara
FTC disclosure: Ho ricevuto gli articoli di lino gratuitamente dall’azienda produttrice (la FABBRICA del LINO). Non ho ricevuto e non riceverò alcun compenso per presentarli sul mio blog. Le opinioni espresse nel post sono interamente personali.
This is my contribution to the current selection of our Cook the Books hosted by me, Simona of briciole. (You can find the guidelines for participating in the event on this page.)
This is my contribution to 
Contribuisco il mio contorno di sedano rapa dalla Turchia alla lettera S di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di 
Contribuisco la mia quinoa “tipo tamale” dal Perù alla lettera Q di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di 
Contribuisco le mie melanzane dall’Afghanistan alla lettera M di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di 
Contribuisco il mio cavolfiore alla Cavour dall’Italia alla lettera C di Un mondo d’ingredienti evento creato dall’instancabile Aiu’ di