slow-roasted heirloom tomato gazpacho / gazpacho di pomodori semisecchi al forno

gazpacho / DSC_7989 (1)

bright colors and flavors
(napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

A soup lover like me1 was excited to get a copy of Soup Swap: Comforting Recipes to Make and Share2 the new cookbook by Kathy Gunst3, Resident Chef for NPR's "Here and Now." If the idea of hosting or attending a Soup Swap Party sounds appealing is because it is: the book provides suggestions and tips for a successful event. Rest assured, though: you don't need to be planning a party to enjoy the book. Its recipes are dedicated to soup lovers of all sizes and flavors: they include vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options—besides making meat and fish lovers happy. And to complete the soup dinner, the book includes also recipes for side dishes.


FTC disclosure: I have received an advanced reading copy of Soup Swap: Comforting Recipes to Make and Share from the publisher4. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for discussing it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


I went back and forth a number of recipes, but then settled on Joe's Summer Garden Tomato Gazpacho for two reasons.

The first time I ate gazpacho, years ago, I liked it so much I reached for a second helping. Shortly after lunch, I boarded a boat and it did not end well for my digestive system. I decided the recipe was a clear indication it was time I overcame that negative association and made my own gazpacho.

The second reason had to do with the recipe headnote. The Joe of the title is Joe Yonan, Food and Dining editor of the Washington Post. He is quoted as stating "Unless you're roasting the tomatoes to concentrate their flavor, you may have to help them taste like themselves." He goes on to suggest adding a touch of vinegar and a little honey or sugar to the tomatoes "to bring out all their goodness." Of course, I thought: slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes will make a great base for gazpacho—no sweetener required.

heirloom tomatoes / IMG_4875

beauties from Neukom Family Farm

My recipe for slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes is from two summers ago5. The tomatoes on the photos are from this summer crop.

sliced heirloom tomatoes / IMG_4875

before…
(Stainless Steel Slotted Serving Spoon from Zeroll)

Since I am making soup, I reduce slightly the amount of time I slow-roast the heirloom tomatoes with respect to what I usually do.

slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes / IMG_4904

and after four hours of slow roasting

The book arrived in time for me to make several batches of the gazpacho to adjust the recipe to my liking. In particular, I used shallot (scalogno) from my garden, roasted the pepper (peperone) and used my favorite varieties of cucumber (cetriolo). I also halved the amount of tomatoes, since I never made the recipe for a party.

pimento peppers (Round of Hungary) / IMG_4917

there is no such a thing as enough peppers (from Small Fruits farm)

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for Slow-roasted heirloom tomato gazpacho

Ingredients:

  • Extra-virgin olive oil in a mister
  • 3 pounds / 1.35 kg ripe heirloom tomatoes, preferably organic or pesticide-free
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 medium sweet red pepper (pimento or other variety)
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 10 large basil leaves
  • 1 shallot (1 1/2 ounces / 42 g), chopped
  • 1 small cucumber (lemon or Boothby's blonde), peeled and chopped
  • 2 tablespoons / 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon / 15 ml apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

How to slow-roast the tomatoes
Preheat the oven to 250 F / 120 C.

Generously spray with olive oil a 3 qt / 3 l / 13 x 9 x 2 inch / 33 x 23 x 5 cm glass baking dish (no lid necessary).

Wash, core and slice the tomatoes and distribute them evenly in the baking dish.

Bake the tomatoes for 4 hours, stirring a few times.

Take the dish out of the oven, add the salt and stir. (If you don't particularly like tomato skin, you can retrieve the pieces that naturally detach during the baking.)

Let the tomatoes cool and use immediately or store in the refrigerator and use within a couple of days.

How to roast the pepper
For efficiency's sake, you may want to roast a few peppers, use one for the gazpacho and the rest for other recipes6.

Preheat the oven to 375 F / 190 C.

Place the peppers on a baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat or aluminum foil. Roast for 15 minutes, then turn the peppers 90 or 180 degrees, depending on their width.

Roast for 15 more minutes, then turn the peppers. Repeat after 10 minutes. Continue roasting until they are ready, i.e., when the skin has turned dark and is detaching in places. (The time depends on the type and size of peppers.) Put the peppers in a lidded container or paper bag to steam, then peel off skin, discard stem and seeds, and the liquid they release. Set aside one to use in the gazpacho and chop it. Set aside the others until ready to use.

How to prepare the gazpacho
Place all the ingredients for the soup in a bowl and toss. Purée with an immersion blender until almost smooth. Add some water, as needed, to make the soup reach the desired consistency. Adjust salt and pepper to your taste.

Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Serves 4.

Gazpacho is served cold. I prefer it just cool. I also like it dense: the flavor of tomatoes goes right to my head.

The original recipe includes suggestions for garnishes, like chopped tomatoes or cucumbers or scallions. My version is minimalist.

gazpacho / DSC_7987

so intense that a little goes a long way
(napkin by La FABBRICA del LINO)

One evening as I was preparing my version of quick parmigiana di melanzane, I ran out of my tomato sauce7 and decided to use some of my gazpacho: it worked perfectly!

My only problem is: how will I get my gazpacho fix once heirloom tomato season ends?


SoupswappartyDThis post participate to the blog party organized by the Book Club Cookbook (TwitterFacebook Pinterest)

Check out the Soup Swap blog party page


Souper Sundayslogo I am contributing my soup also to Souper (Soup, Salad & Sammies) Sundays, a weekly event created by Deb of Kahakai Kitchen, who is also participating in the Soup Swap blog party.

This is the roundup of the event.


1 My soup recipes
2 The book's page on the publisher's site

3 Kathy Gunst's website Instagram account and Soup Swap's Facebook page
4 Chronicle Books: TwitterFacebookTumblrPinterestInstagram
5 My post with the recipe for Slow-Roasted Heirloom Tomatoes

6 My post with the recipe for Roasted Red Pepper and Almond Dip
7 One of my posts on handmade past which includes my recipe for Tomato Sauce


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

gazpacho di pomodori semisecchi al forno

or launch the gazpacho di pomodori semisecchi audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]


FTC disclosure: I have received the linen free of charge from the manufacturer (la FABBRICA del LINO). In conjunction with this event I have received a Stainless Steel Ladle and Stainless Steel Slotted Serving Spoon from Zeroll, and ProntoPro™ Diamond Hone® Knife Sharpener from Chef’sChoice. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting these items on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. The stainless steel ladle and serving spoon are an elegant addition to my kitchen and table. The knife sharpener is precious: small and easy to use and clean, it's quickly become indispensable.


tomatosoupheirloom tomato

recipe: slow-roasted heirloom tomato gazpacho


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strascinati rigati (pasta fatta a mano) / ridged strascinati (handmade pasta)

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

IMG_2030 / handmade ridged strascinati (pasta)

variation on a theme of ridges

I am not yet done playing with my bamboo sushi rolling mat and pasta dough. Here's my latest creation: a traditional shape (strascinati, which I have already presented in personal variations made with toasted semolina flour or chestnut flour) executed on the sushi rolling mat (stuoino di bambù per sushi), so that it acquires ridges across its surface. In this short video, you can see my hands at work:

  

Note on the tool: There are various types of bamboo sushi rolling mats and not all of them work well. The diameter of the bamboo skewers and the way they are held together make a difference. Look for a rather sturdy mat with the elements tied fairly tightly together. In my case, they are round and have a diameter of 3 mm / 1/8 inch. You only need a small piece of the mat, so its overall size is not important.

You can certainly dress the pasta with your favorite sauce. For the photo-op I have used a combination of my homemade ricotta and slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for strascinati rigati

Ingredients for the pasta dough (I recommend weighing both flour and water because the quantities involved are small):

  • 100 g / 3.5 ounces semolina flour of good quality
  • 50 g / 1.75 ounces warm water
  • A pinch of salt

Ingredients for the dressing:

How to make the dough and shape strascinati rigati
Make a dough with the ingredients and knead until nice and smooth. [This post (with video) talks about how to make semolina pasta dough] Let it rest, well covered (e.g., wrapped in plastic film), for at least half an hour.

Working on the kneading board, roll the dough into a thick salami and cut it into 5-6 pieces. Keep them covered while you shape the strascinati. Roll each piece into a pencil-size snake (3/8 inch / 1 cm thick), then cut into 1 1/4-inch / 3 cm long pieces. (If your hands are quite large, you may need to increase the dimensions of the pieces slightly.) 

Working on the bamboo sushi rolling mat, shape each piece into a strascinato rigato. Place a piece of dough on the mat perpendicular with respect to the slats and just below one of the strings that keep the slats together. Place four fingers (the thumb remains idle) on the piece of pasta to cover it with your fingertips, then drag it towards you while pressing the fingertips into it. This movement thins the pasta and gives it a shell-like shape that will also carry the imprint of your fingers.

Gently move the strascinato rigato off the mat and lay it out to dry on a lightly floured section of the kneading board (or a baking sheet lined with a cotton kitchen towel). Repeat until you have used up the prepared dough. Be very gentle in handling the pasta to as not to mar its pretty shape.

Cook the strascinati rigati and dress as you like. The following dressing is just a suggestion.  

How to cook and dress the strascinati rigati
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil, add some coarse salt, stir and then toss the strascinati rigati in it. The time needed to cook them is a bit variable, depending on their size, how dry they are, but it is not long.

In the meantime, place the tomatoes in a small skillet and warm them up on low heat. When the pasta is almost ready, add the ricotta to the skillet and press it with a fork to cream it.

Taste and stop the cooking when the strascinati rigati are ready. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot, stir and drain leaving a little bit of the cooking water clinging to them. Drop the pasta into the skillet placed over medium-low heat. Stir well. Plate and serve immediately.

The recipe makes two small portions (served as Italian first course), but it can be easily doubled.

IMG_2003 /  handmade ridged strascinati (pasta) with tomatoes and ricotta

ready to be savored

I made this pasta also during my recent stay in Italy and there I dressed it with just fresh ricotta. The best part was sharing the kneading board with my five-year-old nephew (nipote) who made his own interpretation.

A reminder that there is a page on the blog where you can browse the complete collection of handmade pasta shapes, some of them, like the strascinati rigati above, of my own creation.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

strascinati rigati

or launch the strascinati rigati audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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handmade pasta, semolina flour, ricotta, tomato sauce, Italian recipe

Newrule

strascinati rigati (pasta fatta a mano)

IMG_2030 / handmade ridged strascinati (pasta)

variazione sul tema

Non ho ancora finito di giocare con il mio stuoino di bambù per sushi e impasto di semola. Ecco la mia creazione più recente: una forma tradizionale, gli strascinati, che ho già presentato in variazioni personali fatte con la semola tostata oppure con la farina di castagne , ma fatta sullo stuoino per sushi in modo tale da acquisire righe sulla superficie, come i garganelli. In questo breve video potete vedere le mie mani al lavoro:

  

Ci sono vari tipi di stuoino di bambù per sushi e non tutti funzionano bene per fare la pasta. Il diametro delle stecchette e il modo in cui sono legate fa differenze. Cercate uno stuoino con le stecchette a sezione circolare del diametro di 3 mm che siano legate piuttosto vicine l'una all'altra. Per fare la pasta utilizzerete solo un pezzetto della superficie per cui le dimensioni dello stuoino non sono importanti.

Condite i fusilli rigati come preferite: nella foto in basso li vedete conditi con della ricotta fatta in casa e pomodori semisecchi al forno.

Ingredienti per la pasta:

  • 100 g semola di grano duro
  • 50 g acqua calda
  • Un pizzico di sale

Ingredienti per il condimento:

Come preparare l'impasto e formare gli strascinati rigati
Lavorare gli ingredienti fino ad avere un bell'impasto liscio. [Questo post (con video) descrive come faccio l'impasto per pasta con la semola] Farlo riposare, ben coperto (per esempio, avvolto in pellicola), per almeno mezz'ora.

Sul piano di lavoro, formare un salsicciotto e tagliarlo in 5-6 pezzi da lavorare uno alla volta, mentre gli altri rimangono al coperto. Rotolare fino ad ottenere un serpentello del diametro di 1 cm e tagliarlo a pezzetti lunghi 3 cm. (Se avete mani piuttosto grandi aumentate lievemente le dimensioni a misura delle vostre dita.)

Dare ad ogni pezzetto di impasto la forma di un strascinato lavorando su uno stuoino di bambù per sushi. Porre un pezzetto di impasto sullo stuoino in posizione perpendicolare rispetto alle stecchette subito sotto uno degli spaghi che le tiene insieme. Posate le quattro dita (il pollice rimane a guardare) sul pezzetto di pasta in modo da coprirlo con le punte, poi trascinarlo verso di voi premendo le punte delle dita in esso. Questo movimento spiana la pasta e le dà una forma cava che porta l'impronta delle vostre dita.

Posare lo spiedino sulla parte terminale del pezzetto di pasta in posizione perpendicolare alle stecchette (come se fosse un micro-matterello), poi farlo rotolare allontanandolo da voi fino a quando la pasta sia arrotolata tutto intorno ad esso. Quando arrivate sullo spago sollevate lo spiedino, posatelo di nuovo sullo stuoino dove non c'è lo spaghetto e continuate. 

Con delicatezza rimuovere lo strascinato dallo stuoino e metterlo ad asciugare sul piano di lavoro leggermente infarinato o su una placca da forno coperta con un canovaccio di cotone. Continuare fino all'esaurimento dell'impasto. Manipolate gli strascinati rigati con delicatezza per evitare di rovinarne la forma.

Cuocere gli strascinati rigati e condirli come preferite. Quanto segue e solo un suggerimento.

Come cuocere e condire gli strascinati rigati
Cuocere gli strascinati rigati in abbondante acqua salata. Il tempo necessario varia a seconda delle dimensioni e quanto sono asciutti, ma non è lunghissimo.

Nel frattempo, riscaldare i pomodori al forno in una padellina su fuoco dolce. Quando la pasta è quasi cotta, aggiungere ai pomodori la ricotta e schiacciarla con i rebbi di una forchetta per farne una crema.

Quando gli strascinati rigati sono cotti, versare un bicchiere d'acqua fredda nella pentola, mescolare e scolarli lasciando un pochino di acqua di cottura. Versare la pasta nella padellina su fuoco medio-basso. Mescolare bene. Impiattarli e servirli immediatamente.

Questa ricetta fa due porzioni come primo piatto e si può facilmente raddoppiare.

IMG_2003 /  handmade ridged strascinati (pasta) with tomatoes and ricotta

pronti all'assaggio

Ho fatto questa pasta anche durante il mio recente soggiorno in Italia e l'ho condita con solo ricotta fresca. La parte migliore è stata condividere la spianatoia col mio nipotino di cinque anni che ha prodotto la sua personale interpretazione.

recipe: slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes (pomodori semisecchi al forno)


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