spaghetti alla farina di castagne fatti a mano / chestnut flour handmade spaghetti

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

handmade spaghetti

with creamy crescenza cheese

How old was I when I learned to roll spaghetti around my fork and bringing it cleanly to my  mouth? I don't remember, so it must have happened early in my life. Eating spaghetti is probably the first complex task an Italian child is expected to master at the table.

handmade spaghetti

the fork at work

Spaghetti nowadays generally refers to a factory-made kind of pasta. Spaghetti alla chitarra is one exception: it is handmade and cut using a special tool, a wooden frame with metal wires, called chitarra, which you can see in this photo. Versions of handmade spaghetti exist and are called with regional names: pici, umbricelli, ciriole, etc.

The language corner: spaghetti in English is uncountable, while in Italian it is the plural of spaghetto. If you catch me using spaghetti with a plural verb, you know where the confusion comes from.

Since I am not referring to any one tradition and I am using a hybrid method of preparation, I decided to call the pasta I am presenting here simply spaghetti. The dough is a blend of wheat and chestnut flour: it is softer than its semolina cousin, which makes the rolling by hand easier.

Chestnuts are popular in Italy, as I have mentioned before. Foraged chestnuts helped people supplement their diet and since they could be dried or ground into flour, they were useful beyond their short season. Chestnut flour is becoming more readily available in the US, I believe in part because it is naturally gluten free. I use it because of its delicate nutty flavor.

On to the pasta of the day: Here's a brief description of the process I follow. First, I roll the dough by hand (note the light tan color of the dough given by the chestnut flour):

rolling pasta dough

my maple rolling pin

Then, I use the pasta machine fitted with the tagliatelle attachment to cut the dough (you see this in the first part of the short video below).

handmade spaghetti

cut dough hanging from a long rolling pin

The photo above shows the result. As soon as the dough is cut, I separate the strands and drape them over a long rolling pin I have.

The short video below shows what happens next. Important: you need to work fairly fast because the dough is drying while you shape the spaghetti and if it dries too much you won't be able to roll it with your hands.

I cut each strand in 2-3 pieces, then with my hands I roll each piece into a spaghetto, which I drape over the rolling pin. This helps with drying and keeping the shape, I found.

I let spaghetti dry for at least a few hours, up to a full day. After the longer time, the pasta looks like this when I "harvest" it from the rolling pin:

handmade spaghetti

ready for the pot

For this pasta, I make a simple sauce by melting some of my homemade Crescenza cheese with a small amount of butter. The creamy, delicately flavored sauce allows the palate to catch the nutty nuance given to the spaghetti by chestnut flour.

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for chestnut flour handmade spaghetti

Ingredients for the pasta dough:

  • 25 g / 1 oz. chestnut flour
  • 75 g / 2.5 oz. all-purpose flour
  • 55 g / 2 oz. warm water (I recommend weighing the water)
  • A pinch of salt

Ingredients for the cheese dressing:

  • 1/2 tablespoon / 7 g butter
  • 50 g / 1 3/4 oz. Crescenza cheese cut into small pieces

How to make the dough and shape spaghetti
Make a dough with the ingredients and knead until nice and smooth. Let it rest, well covered (e.g., wrapped in plastic film), for at least half an hour.

Working on the kneading board, roll the dough into a long oblong that is narrower than your pasta machine. It must be thin enough to go through the machine but not as thin as when you make tagliatelle, about 2 mm. Alternatively, cut the dough in half and roll and shape one piece at a time. Keep the half you are not working with wrapped until you need it.

Run the dough through the pasta machine fitted with a tagliatelle attachment. Separate the strand and drape them over a rolling pin or thick dowel. From now on, you need to work fairly fast, because the dough is drying while you shape the spaghetti and if it dries too much you won't be able to roll it with your hands.

Cut a strand in 2-3 pieces. With your hands, roll each piece into a spaghetto and drape it over a rolling pin or dowel, or place it on a floured wooden board. I suggest to cut each piece 4.5-5 inches / 11.5-12.5 cm long to get spaghetti about 13-14 inches / 33-35.5 cm long. I would not go longer than this (factory-made spaghetti is 10.5 inches / 25.5 cm long). Adjust the measurements as necessary, depending on your pasta machine and also how thick you like the spaghetti. The important thing is to be consistent, so the spaghetti strands are similar in terms of thickness.

Repeat until you have used up the prepared dough.

Let spaghetti dry for at least a few hours, up to a full day.

Cook spaghetti and dress as you like. The following cheese sauce is just a suggestion.  

How to cook and dress the spaghetti
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil, add some coarse salt, stir and then toss the spaghetti in it. The time needed to cook it is a bit variable, depending on size, how dry it is, but it is not long.

In the meantime, melt the butter in a skillet on gentle heat, then add the cheese and stir while it softens. You want to time this so that the cheese is just melted by the time the pasta is ready to join it.

Taste and stop the cooking when the spaghetti is ready. Pour a glass of cold water in the pot, stir and drain leaving a little bit of the cooking water clinging to the spaghetti. Drop the pasta into the skillet with the melted cheese. Stir well over medium-low heat for half a minute or so, until the spaghetti is coated with the cheese. Plate and serve immediately.

The recipe makes two small portions (served as Italian first course), but it can easily be doubled.

chestnut flour handmade spaghetti

would you like to taste a forkful?

The pairing of delicately nutty pasta and milky cheese is perfect and this dish, while simple and everyday in its unpretentiousness, will charm the guests around your table.


Whb433This is my contribution to edition #433 of Weekend Herb Blogging, an event started by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen, now organized by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once and Brii of briggishome and hosted this week by Carla Emilia of Un’arbanella di basilico.

This post contains the roundup of the event.


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spaghetti alla farina di castagne fatti a mano

or launch the spaghetti alla farina di castagne fatti a mano audio file [mp3].

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pasta, chestnut flour, cheese, spaghetti, Italian cuisine

Newrule

spaghetti alla farina di castagne fatti a mano

spaghetti fatti a mano

con la crescenza cremosa

Quanti anni avevo quando ho imparato ad arrotolare gli spaghetti intorno alla forchetta e a portarli alla bocca senza perderli per strada? Non me lo ricordo quindi deve essere successo quando ero molto piccola. Credo che mangiare gli spaghetti sia la prima azione complessa che i bambini italiani imparino a tavola.

spaghetti fatti a mano

forchetta all'opera

Quando diciamo spaghetti oggigiorno generalmente ci riferiamo a quelli confezionati. Gli spaghetti alla chitarra sono un'eccezione. Esistono comunque spaghetti fatti a mano che hanno nomi locali, come pici, umbricelli, ciriole, ecc.

Dal momento che non mi rifaccio ad una tradizione specifica e che utilizzo un metodo di preparazione ibrido, ho deciso di chiamare questa pasta semplicemente spaghetti. L'impasto è un misto di farina di grano e farina di castagne ed è più morbido dell'impasto con semola di grano duro, il che rende più facile formare gli spaghetti a mano.

Raccogliere le castagne storicamente ha aiutato le persone ad integrare la dieta e dal momento che si possono seccare e macinare, le castagne sono utili ben oltre la loro breve stagione. Il recente rinnovato interesse per la farina di castagne è legato al fatto che è naturalmente priva di glutine, quindi adatta alla produzione di cibi per celiaci. Io la uso per il suo delicato sapore noccioloso.

Ma veniamo alla pasta del giorno. Ecco una breve descrizione del processo che seguo per farla. Prima stendo l'impasto a mano (notare il colore beige dell'impasto dovuto alla farina di castagne):

rolling pasta dough

il mio matterello di legno di acero

Poi uso la macchina per la pasta con l'accessorio per le tagliatelle per tagliare l'impasto (come si vede all'inizio del breve video più avanti).

handmade spaghetti

l'impasto tagliato

La foto qui sopra mostra il risultato. Non appena l'impasto è tagliato, separo i nastri e li appendo su un altro matterello.

Il breve video qui sotto mostra quello che succede dopo. Importante: una volta che l'impasto è tagliato a nastri dovete formare rapidamente gli spaghetti, perché se l'impasto si secca poi non si riesce ad arrotolarlo.

Taglio ciascun nastro in 2-3 pezzi e con le mani arrotolo ciascuno a formare uno spaghetto, che poi appoggio sul matterello in modo che le due estremità ciondolino. In base alla mia esperienza, questo aiuta a far asciugare la pasta mantenendone la forma.

Faccio asciugare gli spaghetti per diverse ore fino ad un giorno. Dopo 24 ore, questo è quanto "raccolgo" dal matterello:

spaghetti fatti a mano

pronti per la cottura

Per questa pasta preparo un semplice condimento facendo fondere della Crescenza fatta in casa con un pochino di burro. Il condimento cremoso e dal sapore delicato permette al palato di percepire la nota nocciolosa data agli spaghetti dalla farina di castagne.

Ingredienti per l'impasto:

  • 25 g farina di castagne
  • 75 g farina 0
  • 55 g acqua calda
  • Un pizzico di sale

Ingredienti per il condimento:

  • 7 g burro
  • 50 g Crescenza tagliata a pezzetti

Come preparare l'impasto e formare gli spaghetti
Lavorare gli ingredienti fino ad avere un bell'impasto liscio. Farlo riposare, ben coperto (per esempio, avvolto in pellicola), per almeno mezz'ora.

Sul piano di lavoro, stendere la pasta fino a che sia abbastanza sottile da poter passare nella macchina della pasta con l'accessorio per tagliare le tagliatelle, circa 2 mm. Alternativamente, tagliate l'impasto a metà e stendere e lavorare un pezzo per volta. Riavvolgere la metà che lavorerete per seconda in modo che non si secchi.

Passare l'impasto steso nella macchina della pasta con l'accessorio per tagliare le tagliatelle. Separare i nastri così ottenuti e appoggiarli sul matterello in modo che le due estremità ciondolino. Da qui in poi dovete formare rapidamente gli spaghetti, perché se l'impasto si secca poi non si riesce ad arrotolarlo con le mani.

Tagliare un nastro in 2-3 pezzi. Rotolare con le mani ciascun pezzo a formare uno spaghetto e appoggiarlo sul matterello in modo che le due estremità ciondolino oppure deporlo su un piano di lavoro leggermente infarinato. Suggerisco di tagliare pezzi di 11,5-12,5 cm per ottenere spaghetti lunghi 33-35,5 cm e non più lunghi (gli spaghetti confezionati sono lunghi 25,5 cm). Adattare le misure a seconda della vostra macchina per la pasta e al diametro desiderato per gli spaghetti. La cosa importante è essere regolari in modo che gli spaghetti abbiano tutti diametro simile.

Continuare fino all'esaurimento dell'impasto.

Cuocere gli spaghetti e condirli come preferite. Il condimento al formaggio qui di seguito è una opzione.

Come cuocere e condire gli spaghetti
Cuocere gli spaghetti in abbondante acqua salata. Il tempo necessario varia a seconda delle dimensioni e quanto sono asciutti, ma non è lunghissimo.

Nel frattempo, far sciogliere il burro in una padella a fuoco basso, poi aggiungere il formaggio e mescolare mentre si ammorbidisce col calore. Fate in modo che il formaggio sia appena sciolto per quando la pasta sia pronta ad essere aggiunta.

Quando gli spaghetti sono cotti, versare un bicchiere d'acqua fredda nella pentola, mescolare e scolarli lasciando un pochino di acqua di cottura. Versarli nella padella con il formaggio fuso. Mescolare bene su fuoco medio-basso per circa mezzo minuto, fino a quando il formaggio sia ben distribuito sugli spaghetti. Impiattare e servire immediatamente.

Questa ricetta fa due porzioni come primo piatto e si può facilmente raddoppiare.

spaghetti fatti a mano

volete assaggiare?

La combinazione di pasta dal sapore lievemente noccioloso e formaggio lattoso è perfetta.


Whb433Questo post è il mio contributo all'edizione numero 433 di Weekend Herb Blogging, un evento creato da Kalyn di Kalyn's Kitchen, organizzato ora da Haalo di Cook (almost) Anything at Least Once e Brii di briggishome, e ospitata questa settimana da Carla Emilia di Un’arbanella di basilico.

Questo post contiene il raccolto dell'evento.


BannerE per Pasta che ti passa organizzato da Sandra di Indovina chi viene a cena? e Gaia di Burro e Malla. La sfida qui è la spesa limitata a 5 euro ($6 circa) per un piatto di pasta per quattro persone. Gli ingredienti più costosi del piatto descritto sopra sono:

  • farina di castagne: $1,20
  • farina di grano: $0,30
  • Crescenza: $2

Il prezzo della Crescenza al dettaglio qui è molto più elevato, ma io la faccio in casa e quindi, anche quando uso il latte bio più costoso, il prezzo per 100 g è all'incirca quello elencato.

I restanti $2,50 sono sufficienti a procurarsi il resto degli ingredienti e quindi credo di rientrare nei limiti della sfida. La soddisfazione che viene dal fare la pasta in casa è senza prezzo. 

La raccolta di ricette contribuite all'evento (cliccate su Share per condividere e scaricare).

recipe: chestnut flour handmade spaghetti (spaghetti alla farina di castagne)


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“spaghetti” al pomodoro / “spaghetti” with tomato sauce

spaghetti squash

“spaghetti” al pomodoro

Years ago, some time after I had moved to California, a colleague described to me a squash whose pulp, once cooked, looked like spaghetti. I remember that, as I was listening, I thought “Well, it’s not April 1st, so this story unrelated to the time of year.” I thought that it was a story like that of spaghetti growing on trees. In this case, spaghetti grew close to the ground. The background to the story was my curiosity about zucca (pumpkin, winter squash), a food that had never appeared on the table when I was growing up and that I was slowly learning to know.

When later I saw some melon-like fruit labeled “spaghetti squash” at the grocery store, I had to receonsider my position. I bought one of the squashes and verified that indeed, once cooked, the pulp of this squash separates in strands that remind one of broken spaghetti.

A short detour. Learning to wrap spaghetti around a fork takes a bit of practice, so young kids have their portion cut into short strands that can be more easily handled. However, it becomes a point of pride to be able to eat spaghetti properly, and once that happens, having an adult cut your spaghetti is an affront. While I have forgotten the details of my evolution on the spaghetti-eating path, I preserve the negative gut-feeling reaction to the sight of someone cutting spaghetti. There was one dish for which my mother broke spaghetti into short strands: cauliflower soup (minestra di cavolfiore). However, the breakage in this case occurred prior to cooking.

spaghetti squash

baked spaghetti squash

Back to spaghetti squash, I like that it offers a chance to prepare squash in different ways, namely to dress it as if it were pasta. Due to its thick skin, spaghetti squash stores well. The one in the photo has spent several months in my storage space without problems. I must admit that my technique for removing the pulp from the skin needs refinement: I could not get strands longer than a couple of inches, which means my plate of “spaghetti” is not likely to fool many people. (And considering my feelings about broken spaghetti, having a bowl of it did not make me particularly proud of myself.)

But whoever is fooled, once they take the first forkful to their mouth, will hear me squeal: “Pesce d’Aprile!” All right, that in theory would happen only if the date were April 1st, as explained in this post. But over at Very Good Recipes, April 1st will stretch for the whole month of April, thanks to the April Fool Challenge. I am one of the judges, so my post does not take part in the challenge, but is meant to illustrate what we are looking for in the entries submitted for it.

The “spaghetti” in the top photo were dressed with a simple tomato sauce (sugo di pomodoro). Last summer, I made several batched of strained roasted tomatoes and froze them in one- and two-cup sealable bags. When I want to make some tomato sauce, I grab one of the two-cup bags, thaw it and the sauce is ready in a short time.

Ingredients:

  • a spaghetti squash
  • 2 cups strained roasted tomatoes, thawed if frozen
  • olive oil
  • a shallot, minced
  • leaves of a sprig of thyme
  • a small garlic clove, minced
  • sea salt, to taste
  • freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 F. Cut squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds and threads (a grapefruit spoon is an excellent tool for this task), place on a lined baking sheet and bake for 40 minutes or until pulp is cooked. Let cool briefly, then with a fork, remove the pulp in strands and place in a large bowl. Sprinkle a bit of salt and stir. Note that spaghetti squash can also be cooked in a microwave or boiled. I favor the oven because it imparts a nice flavor to the squash and dries out some of the water it contains.

In a small saucepan, warm up a bit of olive oil, then add shallot and thyme. Cook gently for a few minutes, then add garlic. Cook for a couple of minutes, then add tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook for 8-10 minutes. Adjust salt, to taste.

Place some of the “spaghetti” in each bowl, distribute some tomato sauce over it, then sprinkle some cheese and serve immediately.

When you eat the first forkful, you’ll notice that this spaghetti has a different texture from pasta and the taste is different as well. It’s probably better to compare spaghetti squash with other types of squashes. The strands maintain a certain amount of bite, which allows the visual illusion. The flavor is quite mild, so choose some condiment or a nice sauce to go with it — as in the case of pasta, come to think about it. And as in the case of pasta, I recommend not to overdo with sauce, cheese or whatever else you are adding.

All the details of the challenge are explained on this page, so I won’t repeat them here. The page also has the list of judges and the entries submitted so far, starting with those from the judges. Take a look at what’s on the page, so you can get some ideas to get your creativity going. You have until Monday, April 30th to submit your entry according to the specifications laid out on the page referenced above. We are looking forward to reading about interesting variations on the theme of “fooling” someone at the table.

Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

“spaghetti” al pomodoro

or launch the “spaghetti” al pomodoro audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

April Fool Challenge, spaghetti squash, tomato sauce

recipe: spaghetti with tuna sauce (spaghetti col tonno)

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pasta al burro e parmigiano / pasta with butter and parmigiano

[cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano]

I grew up eating pasta for lunch almost every day. As a child, I looked forward to departures from the routine (which, in the case of pasta seasoning, was tomato and meat sauce): I looked forward to having pasta al burro e parmigiano. Arriving home after school, I would ask my mother: Cosa c’è per pranzo? (what’s for lunch?) and the ‘right’ answer would bring a big smile on my face.

image from briciole.typepad.com

My preferred shape for pasta al burro e parmigiano is spaghetti, but any shape can be used. Pasta al burro e parmigiano can be made easily and quickly, if the ingredients are available: good quality pasta and unsalted butter and genuine parmigiano.

I know that other people in Italy have a soft spot for this kind of pasta. I have also met a young woman in this country who, thanks to an Italian baby-sitter, loves pasta al burro e parmigiano, which makes me think that the dish has a power across geographic boundaries. To me it has the power of skilled simplicity. When I decided to follow on my mother’s steps and make pasta all’uovo (egg pasta), my first batch of fettuccine was made al burro e parmigiano.

To prepare pasta al burro e parmigiano for two, I bring a pot of water to a rolling boil, add salt to taste and toss in it 1/3 lb of spaghetti or other dried pasta shape. While the pasta is cooking, I place one tablespoon of unsalted butter into each of two bowls, cut into 3-4 pieces. I also grate an ounce of parmigiano. I cook the pasta until it is al dente (firm to the bite), drain it, leaving a little of the cooking water clinging to it, and divide it equally into the two bowls with the butter. I start stirring immediately, so that the heat from the pasta melts the butter. At the same time, I sprinkle the grated parmigiano on it (also divided equally into two), and keep stirring until butter and cheese are evenly distributed. Immediate eating is required, as the dish is at its best when hot.

78502745im2_m This is my contribution to Un Piatto di Potere (a dish of power), an event organized by Lenny of Una Finestra di Fronte. The idea is to talk about a dish that affected our lives. Here is the roundup of the event, presented as the table of contents of an anthology.

I loved pasta al burro e parmigiano as a child: eating it was an utter pleasure that has left one of the strongest memories of my childhood. The delight (in both smell and flavor) of this simple three-ingredient dish transcends the sum of its components.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post: 

pasta al burro e parmigiano

or launch the  pasta al burro e parmigiano  audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

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Newrule

pasta al burro e parmigiano

Sono cresciuta mangiando pasta a pranzo quasi tutti i giorni. Da bambina non vedevo l’ora che mia madre facesse la pasta al burro e parmigiano. Per questo tipo di pasta io preferisco gli spaghetti, ma si possono usare altri tipi. La pasta al burro e parmigiano è facile e veloce da preparare, se si hanno gli ingredienti.

image from briciole.typepad.com

So che ci sono altre persone in Italia che hanno un debole per questo tipo di pasta. Ho anche incontrato una giovane donna americana che, grazie ad una baby-sitter italiana, ama la pasta al burro e parmigiano, il che mi fa pensare che questo piatto ha un potere che va al di là dei confini geografici. Per me, questo piatto ha il potere della semplicità esperta.

Per due persone, io cuocio 150 g di pasta. In ognuno di due piatti fondi metto 15 g di burro, poi ci verso metà della pasta scolata lasciando su di essa un po’ dell’acqua di cottura. Mentre mescolo, distribuisco il parmigiano, grattugiato di fresco (30 g, divisi tra le due porzioni di pasta). Quando burro e parmigiano sono ben distribuiti, servo la pasta, che va mangiata immediatamente.

78502745im2_mQuesto è il mio contributo a Un Piatto di Potere, evento organizzato da Lenny di Una Finestra di Fronte. Il riassunto, presentato come l’indice di un’antologia, si trova qui.

Da bambina adoravo la pasta al burro e parmigiano: mangiarla era una delizia che ha lasciato un ricordo indelebile. La delizia di questo semplice piatto fatto di tre ingredienti trascende la somma delle sue parti.