skorpor: crostini svedesi / Swedish rusks

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2368

crisp skorpor up for grabs
on Double Creek Pottery plate on La FABBRICA del LINO placemat

In the kitchen of the house in upstate New York where I spent a few days at a retreat last September, there was a bookshelf of cookbooks. My right hand pulled out Favorite Swedish Recipes by Emmie Berg and while I paged through it, the recipe for Round Rusks (Brutna skorpor) locked my attention.

Skorpor are popular Swedish rusks and a rusk is a light, dry biscuit or a piece of twice-baked bread. There is a version of rusk in many other traditions: for example, in Italy we have fette biscottate (twice-baked slices of bread). According to the wikipedia article on rusk, skorpor can be flavoured with herbs, dried fruit, nuts, or spices such as anise or cardamom.

The cookbook mentioned includes also a recipe for Rye Rusks. To make my version of Round Rusks I borrowed a bit from both recipes, added ingredients according to my taste and adapted the instructions to my bread-making habits. I used a small amount of sunflower honey as sweetener, and cardamom and orange zest to give the skorpor a nice nuanced flavor.


FTC disclosure: I have received the placemat free of charge from the manufacturer. I have not and will not receive any monetary compensation for presenting it on my blog. The experience shared and the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own.


IMG_2359 /  skorpor Swedish rye rusks

dividing the dough and rolling skorpor

Print-friendly version of briciole's recipe for skorpor (Swedish rusks)

Ingredients:

  • 50 g stone-ground whole-wheat flour
  • 60 g dark rye flour
  • 150 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I use to make bread)
  • 1 teaspoon / 3.2 g instant yeast
  • 150 ml milk + 40 ml water at 80 F / 27 C (I used non-fat milk)
  • 20 g fluid honey (I use sunflower honey, miele di girasole)
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon orange zest

How to prepare the dough
Measure all the ingredients and place them in a bowl. Mix with a a wooden spoon or a dough whisk until a shaggy dough forms. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes, then mix some more, until a firm dough forms. 

Oil well a glass bowl or similar container where the dough will rise.

Lightly oil your working surface and transfer the dough onto it. Knead lightly for 10 seconds. Transfer the dough to the oiled bowl. With wet hands, letter-fold the dough and then flip it to oil the surface. Cover the bowl and place it in a warm place until the dough has doubled in volume (two hours or so, depending on the temperature).

How to shape round rusks
Line a baking sheet (half sheet size) with a silicone baking mat or piece of parchment paper.

Lightly flour a portion of your working surface and let the dough fall on it. With the help of a scale, divide the dough into 20 small pieces of 22-24 g each (depending on how many pieces you cut of the smaller size, you may get enough dough for 21 pieces).

Lightly flatten each piece of dough, letter-fold it, flip it and then roll it into a tight ball. Roll while tucking the dough under it, until the surface acquires a good tension without tearing. The working surface should be clear of flour, otherwise the roll slides on it, while you need some friction to create the tension on the dough's surface. [This short video shows my hands rolling a larger piece of dough, but should still give an idea.]

Place on the silicone backing mat or parchment paper in four rows of five, evenly spaced (adjust some to make space for the 21st, if you have it). Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise until a dimple made on the dough with your fingertip persists (an hour or so, depending on the temperature).

skorpor Swedish rye rusks proofing / IMG_2361

proofed and ready for the oven (placemat from La FABBRICA del LINO)

How to bake and crisp rusks
30-45 minutes after the beginning of the second rise (depending on how quick your oven heats up), preheat the oven to 425 F / 218 C.

When the dough is ready, put the baking sheet in the oven and bake skorpor until light brown (8-10 minutes). Take the baking sheet out of the oven and transfer the skorpor on a cooling rack or towel. Let cool completely, then break in half each skorpor with a fork (forchetta).

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2362

splitting skorpor with a fork before putting them back in the oven

With a salad fork, I make a row of holes all around, then pry the skorpor open delicately.

Distribute the 40-42 pieces on the baking sheet and place in a 200 F / 93 C oven for 1-2 hours until they are crisp. Check them after 1 hour; in my oven, it takes 1 1/2 hours. Turn off the oven and leave the door ajar. Let the skorpor dry for up to another hour. Again, check them half-way through to prevent them from getting too dry.

Make sure you have some nice spread or creamy cheese to taste fresh skorpor. Store surviviors in an airtight container.

skorpor Swedish rye rusks / IMG_2369

Crunchy, with the earthy flavor of rye (segale) and a hint of orange and cardamom, it is clear from the first bite why these morsels are popular. They have been an instant hit in our household and besides being good, they are fun to make (signed: skorpor's serial baker).


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending my skorpor to the January edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Sandra.


Nowy2… to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish).


and to Yeastspotting


New bww logoThe parting shot goes to edition #154 of Black and White Wednesday – A Culinary Photography Event created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook, now organized by Cinzia of Cindystar, and hosted this week by Lynne of Cafe Lynnylu.

The photo was shot in color with my iPhone and then converted to sepia (Lightroom preset Sepia Tone).

The gallery of images contributed to the event.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

crostini svedesi

or launch the crostini svedesi audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

rusks, breadrye flourSwedish cuisine

 

rohlíky: panini cechi / Czech bread rolls

rohliky / panini cechi / Czech bread rolls

impossible not to eat one — or two

Another European country — another bread.

Our virtual tour of the EU has reached the Czech Republic and to honor it, I baked a beloved traditional bread roll called rohlík (plural: rohlíky, as Káta kindly told me). When I read expatriates wax poetic about a bread, I want to bake it. This has happened recently with the Maltese bread called ftira and now with rohlík. Trust the expats: they know what it means to miss a food they love. 

In reading about rohlík, I immediately learned that it is the Czech version of a bread roll I made not too long ago to mark our virtual visit to Hungary: kifli. While I made kifli with a savory stuffing and in a crescent shape, for my rohlík I privileged the elongated shape and used seeds to grace the surface.

rohlik / panino ceco / Czech bread roll

breaking the crisp crust

Even after several years of bread baking, the satisfaction I derive from tasting bread that came to life in my own kitchen is undiminished. These rolls are relatively straightforward to make, they are pretty and with their crisp seeded crust and soft crumb make even a few bites a joyful experience. 

Topped with some fruit preserves, a warm rohlík makes a great breakfast; stuffed with some bresaola or a piece of my homemade cheese, it makes a satisfactory snack (spuntino). 

rohlik / panino ceco / Czech bread roll

reveals the soft crumb

The inspiration for the dough came from the book Local Breads by Daniel Leader, which contains several recipes for Eastern European breads (in an earlier post, you can see an image of my rendition of his Czech Christmas braid). Besides using mostly a different shape (Leader's rolls are crescent-shaped), my rendition differs from the inspiring recipe in three main ways (and a few small ones): 1. the use of 20% whole-wheat flour; 2. delayed fermentation; and 3. larger rolls. 

Ingredients for the dough:

  • 300 g / 1 1/4 cup lukewarm water
  • 15 ml / 1 tablespoon whey OR water
  • 10 g instant yeast 
  • 60 g whole-wheat flour
  • 40 g sprouted whole-wheat flour OR whole-wheat flour
  • 400 g King Arthur Flour all-purpose flour (this is the flour I always use to make bread)
  • 50 g unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 10 g fine sea salt

Ingredients for the topping:

  • 1 tablespoon / 8 g poppy seeds (semi di papavero)
  • 1 1/2 tablespoon / 15 g sesame seeds (semi di sesamo)
  • 1 teaspoon / 5 g sea salt

Note (in case you look at the inspiring recipe): since I used delayed fermentation, I reduced the amount of instant yeast, and since I used some whole-wheat flour, I increased the amount of liquid.

Mix the dough
Pour water and whey in a large bowl. Add all the other ingredients for the dough and stir with a wooden spoon until they come together into a rough dough.

Cover the bowl and let stand for 10 minutes.

Spray some olive oil on your kneading board. Empty the mixing bowl on the board, scraping it well. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic. 

Clean the mixing bowl and oil it.

Flatten the dough. Fold the left third towards the right, then fold the right third towards the left. Fold the top third towards the bottom, then fold the bottom third towards the top. (For a visual help, go to this page, then scroll through the slides.)

Turn the folded dough upside down and place it in the oiled bowl. Cover the bowl tightly (for example, with a clean shower cap) and place it in the refrigerator overnight. 

Shape the dough
The following morning, line each of two half sheet pans with a silicone baking mat. Sprinkle a bit of flour on the mats.  

Transfer the dough onto a lightly floured kneading board. With the help of a scale, cut the dough into 16 pieces, each weighing 55 g / 2 oz. 

Take a piece of dough and roll it into a rectangle about 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm long and 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm wide. Roll the rectangle starting from one of the shortest sides. While you roll the dough with one hand, gently pull the dough with the other.  You will end up with something like what you see in the photo below.

rohlik / panino ceco / Czech bread roll

after the initial rolling

Gently roll the shaped dough to give it a cylindrical shape. You need to press the dough from the center towards the two extremities while you roll. You will end up with something like what you see in the photo below.

For a visual help, take a look at this short video (keeping in mind that the rohlík shaped in it is bigger than the one I made) or watch this longer video (the shaping starts at 4'45"). 

rohlik / panino ceco / Czech bread roll

final shape — almost ready for proofing

Place each roll on the prepared baking sheets, seam side down. If you want, you can curve some of the cylinders into crescents, like I have done. Leave at least 2 inches / 5 cm space between rolls. 

rohlik / panino ceco / Czech bread roll

a nice layer of seeds and salt

You can leave the surface plain or cover it with mixed seeds. To do so, prepare a small bowl with water and a pastry brush and place the seed and salt mix in a long, shallow bowl or plate. 

Lightly brush 2-3 rolls with water, then gently pick up one at a time, flip it and make the wet surface touch the layer of seed and salt mix in the bowl. I think this method is more efficient and gives a better result than sprinkling the seed and salt mix on each roll, but of course, you can do it that way, if you prefer. Repeat until all the rolls are seeded.

Lightly drape some plastic wrap over the two baking. Let the shaped rolls rise at room temperature until they are pillowy, but the layers are still visible. In my case that was one hour. 

Prepare the oven and bake the rolls
About 15 minutes before baking, place one oven rack in the top third of the oven and the other in the middle. Make sure that there is enough distance between the racks for the baking sheets holding the risen rolls. Heat the oven to 350 F / 177 C.

Gently lift the silicone baking mats with the proofing rolls and move them (plastic wrap and all) onto the kneading board or a table. Place one half sheet pan on each oven rack.

When ready to bake, remove the plastic wrap. Take the sheet pans out of the oven and carefully move one of the silicone baking mats with the proofed rolls onto each of them. Place the loaded baking sheets in the oven.

After 12 minutes, switch the rack position of the baking sheets. 

Continue baking the rolls until the tops are golden. In my oven, the total baking time was 30 minutes. Each oven is different, so start checking the rolls closely after 25 minutes of baking time. 

When the rolls are ready, take the baking sheets out of the oven and place on wire racks. Let stand for 10 minutes. Harvest the rolls from the baking sheets.

Serve the rolls warm or at room temperature.

rohliky / panini cechi / Czech bread rolls

parbaked and ready to be frozen

Parbake (some of) the rolls for future enjoyment
In his book, Dan Leader suggests parbaking the rolls as an option and I applied it to half of the rolls. 

After 15 minutes of baking time (3 minutes after switching the rack position of the baking sheets), take out of the oven the top baking sheet. At this point, the rolls have risen and the crust is set, but still pale (see photo above). Put the baking sheet on a wire rack and let the rolls cool completely, about an hour, then place in resealable plastic bags and freeze.

I have not yet used the frozen rolls, but when I want to do it, I will follow Leader's instructions (adapted to my rolls, which are bigger than his): place the frozen roll on a baking sheet and let defrost for 1 1/2 hour. Preheat oven to 350 F / 177 C and bake rolls until golden.  

image from 3.bp.blogspot.comI contribute my rohlíky to the 20th installment of the Abbecedario culinario della Comunità Europea (European Community Culinary ABC), an event organized by Trattoria MuVarA that will bring us to visit 26 countries of the EU (all except Italy) using the alphabet as guide. T like Trdlo (Czech Republic) is hosted by Alessandra of Ricette di cultura.

This page contains the list of contributions to the event.
Questa pagina contiene la lista dei contributi all'evento.  


Nuovo italia (1)I am sending this bread to the March edition of Panissimo, a monthly event created by Barbara of Bread & Companatico and Sandra of Indovina chi viene a cena? and hosted this month by Patty of Il castello di Pattipatti.

 


Nowy2And also:

– to the monthly showcase Sourdough and Yeast by Wisla (in Polish). This is the roundup.

– to Yeastspotting. This page contains part 2 of the roundup and a link to the other two parts.


Click on the button to hear me pronounce the Italian words mentioned in the post:

panini cechi

or launch the panini cechi audio file [mp3].

[Depending on your set-up, the audio file will be played within the browser or by your mp3 player application. Please, contact me if you encounter any problems.]

breadroll, Czech cuisine